11" Rears On A E28?

[epearce]

You need to weld adjustment plates / brackets on the subframe to gain more negative camber.
There are several DIY's for it.

Ill have to look cheers!

Do you know if you made camber tops for the rear coilovers it would work? There is still some room between the spring and body to allow for movement.

[epearce]

Ill have to look cheers!

Do you know if you made camber tops for the rear coilovers it would work? There is still some room between the spring and body to allow for movement.

Don't think this will give me enough camber. Might have to look into modifying the rear subframe to get a few more negative degrees..

[Zic]

making a rear top mount will not give you any camber adjustment at all.
You need to modify the subframe, when you weld on the new plates, that are slotted for camber bolts, you chose your self were they are seated. so you can weld them on to give you from mild to extreme negative camber adjustment.
Be aware most of the guides out there are aimed to give more positive adjustment, so the negative camber that is gained by lowering the car can be taken out. so you get the stock amount of camber and still be lowered.

[los02]

Be aware most of the guides out there are aimed to give more positive adjustment, so the negative camber that is gained by lowering the car can be taken out. so you get the stock amount of camber and still be lowered.

So that your lowered and CORRECTLY aligned even though lowered considerably? Because that is what I want to go for. I'm also not trying to run 11's in the rear. Maybe 10's max with the proper offset and a fender roll to sit flush.

[Zic]

So that your lowered and CORRECTLY aligned even though lowered considerably? Because that is what I want to go for. I'm also not trying to run 11's in the rear. Maybe 10's max with the proper offset and a fender roll to sit flush.

Yes you can get stock camber setup and be lowered if you modify the rear subframe.
But in my opinion a little camber does not hurt. I'm running 10" et19 with a decent roll on 245/35-17 tires. and no rubbing at all. The camber that I've gained is only due to lowering the car, no subframe modification. Tho i highly recommend it, so you can adjust the toe to save the tires from being torn apart.

Look through my e28 thread, there are a few pictures. on the ACS i have about 1-2 mm clearance.

[epearce]

making a rear top mount will not give you any camber adjustment at all.
You need to modify the subframe, when you weld on the new plates, that are slotted for camber bolts, you chose your self were they are seated. so you can weld them on to give you from mild to extreme negative camber adjustment.
Be aware most of the guides out there are aimed to give more positive adjustment, so the negative camber that is gained by lowering the car can be taken out. so you get the stock amount of camber and still be lowered.

That makes sense about the top mount.
I will drop a rear subframe out of one of my spare e28's when i have some time and get a better picture for myself. Think i will have to go with the extreme camber, as i really want all the wheel inside the guard.

Do you know if on E28's the wheel gets closer to the strut/coilover the more camber you have? This may be an issue if it does.

[Zic]

Inner clearance should not be a problem. Tho you are gonna run into massive problems if you want to tuck your wheels. You will poke more that that picture up there on the gray e28. and about 1 to 1½ inch less that this.



Here is a car that sits on 17x10.5 et+5 at the rear, and you can see how much he has already pulled the fender. your wheel will poke 32mm more that that.

[epearce]

I will only be running the 11s on the rear.

The above e28 would only have 3 to 4 degrees of negative camber from lowering. I plan to try to double that. That would be the only possible way to tuck without flares etc.

[Moose]

The -20 is going to be what gives you trouble, but isn't undoable. You won't be able to tuck it even with additional camber and fender work unless you went absolutely balls out on the fenders, very unlikely it would look good in the end without welding on a wider flare, just not enough give in the stock metal to get where you would want. Your best bet would be running a short tire, and embracing the poke I'm running a 17x11 -11 for reference and even with extensive fender work (would look terrible without my Mtech flares) there is no way in hell you were tucking those.

All of that said for anyone reading the thread, 11s are totally doable, you would just want to hover closer to et0-10, the inner clearance is there.

[epearce]

Thanks for the insight moose, poke it is. Mtech flares sound like the way to go. Out of interest have you done anything to increase rear camber, or are just on the amount you get from lowering?

[epearce]

After a nervous month of waiting for them to arrive from Austria, they turned up at work and blew my mind.


Wheel specs just as a reminder are - front 16" x 7" ET+10, rear 16" x 11" ET-20.















Any tips or opinions on fitting them would be great, but for the time being they will sit in my room whilst I build the engine.

Check my build thread for more updates along the way --->Build Thread

[Ian e]

Great wheels but as already mentioned, it looks like you will need arch work like this one...



Good luck with the build!

[epearce]

Not a fan of those guards on a e28. I'd rather more negative camber.

[drosas]

any luck with these yet? I bought some lips and after a quick calculation looks like i'll be at 16x9.5 et -20ish in the rear

[epearce]

Sorry mate, it will be a while before anything happens with them. Got too many projects on the go.