AC Schnitzer Type 1s - do I have an issue here?

[M3Flyboy]

Hey...

I just purchased a set of ACS 3-piece Type 1s...always wanted a set. Asymmetric, at 8 x 17 ET 33 front and 9 x 17 ET 32\35 rear (more on this, below).

In examining the back side of the center spoke pieces, I found a difference that's giving me some concern.

The two front wheels are actually still the same setup as original. Stamping shows "8 J x 17 E33", and what I will call the "Model Number" for the wheels is forged (not stamped) on the back of one of the spokes as "BW 218"; on another spoke there's a forged "91" inside a circle of dashes.

The rear wheels are not as original. Both have increased from 8" original widths to 9".

Rear Wheel #1 started life as an "8 J x 17 E33", and is identified as a Model Number "BW 218", with the additional "91" stamping. So it's the same Model Number as the front wheels.

Rear Wheel # 2 also started life as an "8 J x 17 E33" but is identified as a Model Number Typ 002-18 and also FL BW3 18", with both of these Model Numbers stamped inside a single spoke, one above the other. Unlike the other three wheels, there's a forged "94" (not "91") and below it "AS - 10" on one of the spokes. So it's clearly a different Model wheel, despite it appearing identical from the front.

Although the rear wheels look identical from the front, when examining Wheel #2 more closely, examination reveals subtle differences in the center spoke piece forging. The main difference I see is that the spokes themselves are a bit less thick than that of the other 3 wheels.

I put a caliper on the rear wheels, at the rim-end of the spoke, at the hub-end of the spokes, and inside the center bore. Wheel #2 spokes are about 2mm thinner at the rim, about 5mm thinner at the hub...but the wheel hub thicknesses are within a half millimeter of one another.

The effect of the thinner spokes is that the offset on Wheel #2 is approximately ET35, while on Rear Wheel #1, it's about ET32...I don't think the 3mm offset differential is an issue...I am more concerned about the robustness (if that's a word) of Wheel #2 for its intended use - a supercharged E36 M3.

Anybody know what the deal is here? Is this odd rear wheel still ok for installation on an E36 M3? Is the odd wheel the same "strength" even though its spokes are a bit thinner than the other three wheels?

[Mike36]

Pics would really help. There are other companies that also produced ACS Type I wheels such as RH. I believe they should all be stamped with AC Schnitzer on the inside.

[M3Flyboy]

Pics would really help. There are other companies that also produced ACS Type I wheels such as RH. I believe they should all be stamped with AC Schnitzer on the inside.

All have AC Schnitzer Germany forged on the inside, along with O.Z. Racing.

The issue simply is what the significance is of the different "model" for one of the rear wheels when compared to the others...pics really won't tell any more than what I've posted - the wheels will appear identical from the front, and only close examination of the rear of the spokes and putting a caliper on them quantifies the thickness differential.

[properstyle]

Rh Wheels are ACS replicas the only real acs where produced by OZ to my understanding'

[Spirit]

Acs wheels were outsourcing work out Indeed to oz and others etc but will always have the ac stamp on them if they genuine

[M3Flyboy]

Acs wheels were outsourcing work out Indeed to oz and others etc but will always have the ac stamp on them if they genuine

Again, I re-iterate, my question has nothing to do with whether the wheels are genuine...I am satisfied that they are...I just want to know what the significance is between the two versions \ apparently different model rear wheels.

[Spirit]

Again, I re-iterate, my question has nothing to do with whether the wheels are genuine...I am satisfied that they are...I just want to know what the significance is between the two versions \ apparently different model rear wheels.

Email ac themselves with the code numbers you have they can tell you all the info you need

[M3Flyboy]

Email ac themselves with the code numbers you have they can tell you all the info you need

Good idea...just did that very thing.

[Dr.AK]

Rh Wheels are ACS replicas the only real acs where produced by OZ to my understanding'

Type 1s were made by OZ, Type 2s by Ronal, afaik.

[Byron]

If they're real acs, then why are you worried about strength? They're just a newer design (the numbers in the circles are date stamps), and acs wouldn't sell a weak wheel.

[M3Flyboy]

If they're real acs, then why are you worried about strength? They're just a newer design (the numbers in the circles are date stamps), and acs wouldn't sell a weak wheel.

So, at least one mystery is cleared up...the "94 AS 10" means it's a later design than the "91".

While I agree that ACS wouldn't sell a "weak" wheel, they might very well have sold (or even still may sell) wheels with different design capabilities for different service applications...as in capable of handling greater curb weight, horsepower, G-forces.

But your point is well taken - one would think that regardless, any of their wheels would be capable of taking whatever stresses a car fitted with 17'' tires could produce. But, now that I've nearly doubled the horsepower on the car, that theory may not hold. Anyway, if I hear back from ACS I will post the reply here.

[Byron]

Wheels are strongest against rotational force, so horsepower doesn't really matter unless you're in the 1000's with slicks and beadlocks. You'll be fine running them as is. No need to think too much into it.