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Look at it again, someone drilled the hole too small for the insert, so when they pressed it in it split the metal. The distance from the insert hole to the centerbore was the path of least resistance, so it cracked there. and I'm not saying it will be good as new, but any welder worth their salt would be able to get that to a point where it would be safe to drive on. The thickest part is probably around 10-12mm thick and most of it is less
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If it helps anything the previois owner told me these wheels had the centers bored out?Instagram- Marc_Miller
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I wouldn't say ANY welder worth their salt. welding aluminum is a little harder than other metals.
plus that crack is deep in a hole. it would need to get dug out with a die grinder to a ditch big enough to get your tig torch in there and to keep it from cracking you'd want to preheat the whole center piece in an oven or with a torch first. I'm talking about at least a 1/2" to 5/8" wide ditch.
it's just harder to weld deep in a hole on a part that is blazing hot, you need to get proper fusion at the root and also make sure you get clean fusion on every pass all the way as you fill up the huge ditch you dug to get the crack opened up enough to weld in the first place. then as it cools you hope it won't crack along the weld. it's like welding up cracked heads.
and I do think it matters that the bores are made larger. it just makes the rest of the metal thinner and more prone to cracking.
the cracking occurs due to uneven cooling, and the slight dissimilar alloy of the weld rod. there is a ton of different alloy of aluminum. some very soft and some harder. some are so soft that as the weld cools and shrinks, it just pulls itself apart. the metal grows and shrinks with heat, the weld is hottest and shrinks more as it cools, so when it's cold, it has a slightly different stress along it's edge where it's fused with the parent metal.
if you preheat the whole thing, it helps, but you can't get it all to the same temp or the whole wheel center would be a puddle of molten aluminum. so, it's that heat and alloy difference your fighting.
then add the stress of bolting them to your car and rolling over pot holes and the weld can crack again. with that in mind I would expect the barrels to crack again. that metal has been work hardened over time and is just prone to cracking on the weld. if they have been bent and straightened, that area of the rim is harder due to work hardening...
having said all that...I have a hard time imaging that center piece coming apart. it's a fairly thick chunk of metal. I would replace cracked lips and barrels though.
and as far as the value...I dunno. I have alot of stuff that's worth this or that amount...but in the end, it's only really worth what I can get for it on a given day. it kinda sucks but bottom line is that's the reality.
I paid $1300 for some 17" BBS RF's in perfect shape original clear coat AND original BBS boxes, and $1300 for a set of 17" Cromodoras also in 100% drivable shape, but flaking clear coat. imho just as baller as these, but totally ready to drive on now. those prices included shipping.
what I might do is replace the barrels that have cracks or welds with new or used ones that hadn't ever had a repair done to them. if you want to sell them, discount the price by the cost of all the repairs needed and probably good to keep in mind the cost of having a pro assemble them. because some possible buyers won't want to do that...I mean sometimes things leak. if you pay a pro to do the assembly, then at least you should have some recourse to fix that. and don't forget the cost of new rim bolts...many say the bolts are a one time thing, because to get the correct torque, the bolts stretch a bit and arn't intended for re-torquing again and again.Last edited by Crankey; 02-27-2013, 01:55 PM.Comment
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Honestly OP, if I was in your situation I would be trying to nickel and dime it as well to make sure I didn't lose out on a ton of money. But in reality and the safest thing to do would be to sell the salvageable pieces and scrap or make something decorative out of the structurally unsafe pieces. Last thing you want is a crack in the face to rip while loved ones are in the car.
Most aluminum welders I have met are either horrible or very expensive... if you paid the money to have a good one fix it, I am sure he would tell you that it more then likely will come back, if he doesn't he is probably not good & or just wants your money.
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The thing about the welding is that You want to eliminate the crack and weld inside to melt the existing pieces that are in good condition while not overheating it. If You weld just above the crack it will crack again. About the center bore, many people drive the AMG OZ's with cracks and without any problems but I wouldn't recommend that.Comment
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I've never heard of AMG OZs being cracked. Is that common?Originally posted by a112 View PostInstagram- Marc_MillerComment
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They often crack around the bolt area and inside the centerbore.Comment
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If anyone has got it right in this thread it's Byron, he knows his shit more than 90% of the forum.I dislike Byron.Comment
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My friend knows a guy that daily drives a cracked one for a long time.Originally posted by MarcMiller View PostComment
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I had cracks in each of my lug holes on my O.Z. Aero I. Had them professionally welded and they ended up cracking again. I didn't see the cracks until after I took the wheels off probably 2 months later. Not worth the risk in my opinion, I'm parting the wheels nowComment
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If anyone knows where i can order barrels for my wheels let me know. Rotiform can't make them either can memoryfab.Instagram- Marc_MillerComment
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Tunershop should be able to make them.ive heard that Image wheels will make custom barrels occasionally but they aren't the greatest to deal with.
Last edited by Oh, Word?; 03-07-2013, 06:17 PM.Comment
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