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  • Disassembling wheels--bolts stuck.

    Hi Stanceworks,

    I am trying to take apart two sets of wheels (Watanabe/SSR RS-8 and Epsilon/Southern Ways 5-spokes), but the bolts are not budging. I don't want to strip them, but I am putting quite a bit of force into trying to get them to come off. I have soaked them with PBlaster. Both sets of wheels have some oxidation/rust on the bolts.

    Anyone have tips on how to safely take off the bolts? I can try to muscle them off but am worried about damaging the wheels.

    Also, for replacement hardware, can I use any kind of nuts/bolts or are there special requirements? For both wheels they look like standard hex socket bolts with flange nuts. I was thinking of getting 12.9 hardware from mcmaster.

    Sorry for the noob questions! This is my first time.

    Thanks!
    Last edited by frostvectron; 01-18-2013, 02:24 PM.

  • #2
    Breaker bar and WD-40
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    • #3
      Impact will always work better than straight torque. If you've got an electric rattle gun (cordless) then that will probably work best if you're worried about snapping bolts. I'm guessing the wheels have bolts that go through the lip, face and barrel and have a nut on the back? If you can, get enough extensions on the socket so when it does break, if you're using a breaker bar or ratchet, you don't ram it into the barrel or lip.

      Don't bother with wd-40 (weasel piss), the PB you're using is better. If you can get your hands on some Kroil by Kano industries that would be better, or you can mix up some acetone and ATF if you can find pure acetone.

      If worst comes to worst, apply heat to the nuts, and not the bolts. That should expand the bolt enough to break the bond between the two. Just be careful not to put too much heat on the barrel or face (aluminum vs steel most likely)


      1988 300zx-t

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      • #4
        Regarding the wd40/pb etc, there was a guy that did a test on a bunch of penetrating lubricants on some artificially aged/rusted bolt/nut combo's and got these results:

        Penetrating oil . Average load ..
        None ................. 516 pounds .
        WD-40 .............. 238 pounds ..
        PB Blaster ......... 214 pounds ..
        Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds ..
        Kano Kroil ........ 106 pounds ..
        ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds ..


        1988 300zx-t

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        • #5
          Originally posted by DeleriousZ View Post
          Regarding the wd40/pb etc, there was a guy that did a test on a bunch of penetrating lubricants on some artificially aged/rusted bolt/nut combo's and got these results:

          Penetrating oil . Average load ..
          None ................. 516 pounds .
          WD-40 .............. 238 pounds ..
          PB Blaster ......... 214 pounds ..
          Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds ..
          Kano Kroil ........ 106 pounds ..
          ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds ..
          Wow good to know.
          What ratio ATF to acetone?

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          • #6
            Originally posted by DeleriousZ View Post
            Regarding the wd40/pb etc, there was a guy that did a test on a bunch of penetrating lubricants on some artificially aged/rusted bolt/nut combo's and got these results:

            Penetrating oil . Average load ..
            None ................. 516 pounds .
            WD-40 .............. 238 pounds ..
            PB Blaster ......... 214 pounds ..
            Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds ..
            Kano Kroil ........ 106 pounds ..
            ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds ..
            That is badass and should be a sticky if accurate.

            OP you can also try both sides (nut and bolt head if applicable). I have had a few sets that the nuts were near impossible to remove, but when I applied torque on the bolt head it worked out better. I don't understand the science or anything behind it, but it worked... just be sure the bolts are not splined if so.

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            • #7
              Here's a link to the original article in PDF format. Was taken from a machinists' workshop magazine.



              1988 300zx-t

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              • #8
                Originally posted by DeleriousZ View Post
                Here's a link to the original article in PDF format. Was taken from a machinists' workshop magazine.

                http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/a...0&d=1358704540
                Saved... great document, thank you!

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                • #9
                  Got em out, thanks everyone!

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