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assembling oz futuras

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  • assembling oz futuras

    hey guys this weekend i will be assembling my oz futuras but i cant find the torque specs for the bolts i only found torque specs for the bbs rs and other wheels, do any of you guys have them? also i wanted to know in a sandwhich style mounted face do you guys but the wheel sealer between the face and barrels? also any other tip for assembling wheels will be greatly appreciated.

  • #2
    I torqued mine to 25ftlbs.

    Assembled them then threw sealer around the 2 gaps.
    I dislike Byron.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by got splits? View Post
      I torqued mine to 25ftlbs.

      Assembled them then threw sealer around the 2 gaps.
      what you mean around 2 gaps? and if thats the wheels on the bmw that shit looks sick bro

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      • #4
        did you read through here http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=26614?

        i seal wheels like an oil pan -> sealant in the interface prior to assembly. but some ppl like sealing post assembly. some ppl like both.
        025garage

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        • #5
          Originally posted by 06blcksi View Post
          what you mean around 2 gaps? and if thats the wheels on the bmw that shit looks sick bro
          I mean like when you mount them you have to silicon the gap between the lip and face then the gap between the face and barrel ... or you could use one thick ass line and cover both in one shot haha.

          Thanks a lot dude!
          I dislike Byron.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by vgrntbeauxner View Post
            did you read through here http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=26614?

            i seal wheels like an oil pan -> sealant in the interface prior to assembly. but some ppl like sealing post assembly. some ppl like both.
            yes i read the sticky just trying to get some more advice input just incase im missing anything its my first time so im trying to prepare as much as possible to get it right the first time

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            • #7
              Originally posted by got splits? View Post
              I mean like when you mount them you have to silicon the gap between the lip and face then the gap between the face and barrel ... or you could use one thick ass line and cover both in one shot haha.

              Thanks a lot dude!
              ok i got you now im going to try both for the extra security... what are the specs on yours

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              • #8
                18x9.5 et12
                18x11 et6
                I dislike Byron.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by vgrntbeauxner View Post
                  did you read through here http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=26614?

                  i seal wheels like an oil pan -> sealant in the interface prior to assembly. but some ppl like sealing post assembly. some ppl like both.
                  I have done it both ways, on my AC Schnitzer's made by OZ. And i had trouble with sealing it like an oil pan, it made the lips not sit flush with the barrel. so one of the wheels wobbled when driving.

                  Afterwards i took them apart and cleaned the sealant, torque them down to 22-25 ft/lbs, 33-34 Nm. then sealed were the barrel and lips meet. never had an issue since then.
                  -Instagram@jdjurhuus
                  Stretchsaurus and Pokemon.

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                  • #10
                    Wow, weird. It really should only take a light skim of sealant. And if you assemble and torque before the sealant begins to cure, there shouldn't really be an issue. I prefer this method for sandwich mounted wheels anyway. For any other, I'd probably seal afterward.
                    025garage

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by vgrntbeauxner View Post
                      Wow, weird. It really should only take a light skim of sealant. And if you assemble and torque before the sealant begins to cure, there shouldn't really be an issue. I prefer this method for sandwich mounted wheels anyway. For any other, I'd probably seal afterward.
                      hey guys thanks for all the info but wouldnt torquing the bolts after sealing it cause it to have air bubbles thats the only thing i dont get

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                      • #12
                        naw dude. torque dem nutz before it cures and you won't have an issue. if ur concerned just do it the other way.

                        fwiw diff covers, cast oilpans and lots of other stuff is sealed before you mate the parts. it works fine in most cases.
                        025garage

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by vgrntbeauxner View Post
                          naw dude. torque dem nutz before it cures and you won't have an issue. if ur concerned just do it the other way.

                          fwiw diff covers, cast oilpans and lots of other stuff is sealed before you mate the parts. it works fine in most cases.
                          I did this, bolting it down before it cured, and had issues with them wobbling.
                          And second thing, diff covers do not have to spin around, it will seal up alright. but there is no telling if the cover will be 100% parallel to the diff housing. like its need to be with the barrels and lips.
                          -Instagram@jdjurhuus
                          Stretchsaurus and Pokemon.

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                          • #14
                            Thanks here is a pic of the wheels how they look so far

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                            • #15
                              Looks great.
                              -Instagram@jdjurhuus
                              Stretchsaurus and Pokemon.

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