Adapters Thread, need good info!

[simsima325]

I am wary to try this on my GF's car, but after I get rims mounted this spring on my car, the DS1's will just be sitting.

She has a 2008 Civic 4 door, and I was thinking of slapping these on with a 114.3 to 120 adapter. Going to take measurements before, to see if it is possible, but I am thinking it is.

Questions! What is a good brand for adapters, I need this to be safe. Are even the best adapters safe? Have heard of people running them with no problem, but its still un-nerving.

Also, how much will this change the ET, on average?

Thanks guys. Hope this is the right place to ask.

[Han]

The thickness of said adapter will lover the offset by whatever thickness it is. They make 15mm and larger adapters. 20mm is the "standard" of being the thinnest, but most consistently "safe" thickness.

Adapters are safe if they are torqued down correctly and are both HUB AND WHEEL centric. It will be basically a seamless extension of the cars' hub.

www.motorsport-tech.com makes good ones.

Also, my friends company, who I design products for on the side can make custom adapters as well.

https://www.euroimagetuning.com

[Tropicana]

Matt at adaptec was awesome too me, completely custom specs, wheel centric and hubcentric... go as low as 15mm and they are fast producing them too...also use your stock lug thickness for the new shanks unlike companies like adaptitusa which i would avoid at all costs

[Stephen]

I rock adapters, no problem. Hub and wheel cnetric are a must if they dont have sunken studs. If they do, the studs will center the wheel, after all, there are some wheels that are lugcentric. But you still want hubcentric to the hub.

Hell, mine were dirt cheap

[Han]

I rock adapters, no problem. Hub and wheel cnetric are a must if they dont have sunken studs. If they do, the studs will center the wheel, after all, there are some wheels that are lugcentric. But you still want hubcentric to the hub.

Hell, mine were dirt cheap

Studs aren't only for "centering" the wheel. If they aren't wheel centric, the load/pressure is on the lug/studs (which is not good) and not on the "centering ring" of the wheel-centric part.

[Stephen]

Studs aren't only for "centering" the wheel. If they aren't wheel centric, the load/pressure is on the lug/studs (which is not good) and not on the "centering ring" of the wheel-centric part.

Yes, wheel centric is better, but i havent had any vibration or breaking issues. Alot of adapters are set up this way. The adapter is still hubcentric and centers onto the hub. Heres what i used when i was researching. (keep in mind, i had a time constraint, otherwise i wouldve had double hubcentric adpaters made.)

Lets talk about Lug Centric Vs Hub Centric Wheels

The difference:
Lug centric wheels have the mounts drilled for conical seating lug nuts. When properly installed in a star pattern starting from the top and working your way around as you tighten them down you will center the wheel. (Note: if you just crank the top lug nut down then crank the others your wheel will not be centered and will have vibration issues.)

Hub centric wheels use a hub centric ring to maintain wheel centering. When the hub centric ring is properly sized for both the center bore of your hub and the center bore of your wheel then when mounted it will properly center. (This does not me just crank down the top lug and then the others. You still need to properly tighten them in the star pattern)


Q: Which is better. Well, having a hub centric ring is a definite plus. It will keep your wheels centered and is your best bet to combat wheel vibration. Granted this is if you have properly balanced wheels and that is not the crux of your problem.

Q: So does that mean if I use lug centric wheels my car will vibrate uncontrollably and cause me to crash on the highway into an exploding nuclear failure. No, it doesnt. What it means is that you must take greater care when properly installing your wheels. Start with the top lug nut and begin to tighten it, then skip one and begin to tighten that one, keep doing this and you will cover all 5. Now repeat this pattern over and over again until you have reached the spec torque rating.

Cool, now that I finally have a proper grasp of what the difference is I can ask a solid question.

Q: I want to buy aftermarket wheels but it doesn't say anything about coming with hub centric rings. Well, most wheels wont come with rings. This is because the manufacturer uses a larger center bore to allow the wheel to bolt to as many cars as possible. These wheels will for the most part have conical seating lug nuts. If you get out your handy ruler you can measure the center bore of your new wheels and order a hub centric ring if you so desire. Again, your car will not implode on itself just because you do not go and buy a plastic ring for your hub.

With that I must make this statement. Depending on what cheap wheel manufacturer you chose, will effect quality. Some of your cheap off the wall brands, much like the cheap ebay knock off adjustable coil sleeves are not made very well. This means your mounting holes may not be properly drilled and centered for 5x100 or whatever stud pattern you ordered. By just running lug centric lug nuts you will have vibration at higher speeds. You can remedy this buy purchasing hub rings, this will help to center them since the wheel was not drilled properly.


Q: I saw a picture of a car with stripped out studs and everyone keeps saying its because he wasn't running a hub centric ring. Yes, there are a couple pictures floating that people claim it happened because of no hub centric rings. Studs are stripped because they are over torqued or not installed properly. Remember, you car studs have a foot pound limit on what they are set to hold. When you crank that sucker down to 140 ftlbs you not only plan on warping your rotor but you can easily strip out your studs.

Now, if you for some reason install a set of wheels and they wobble like crazy all the way down the road. Get hub centric rings, because they obviously are not drilled properly. Last thing you want to do is completely ruin your studs, wheels and anything else that may slide across the ground when your wheels come off.



So what are the lessons to be learned with this:
1: Don't buy cheap ass ebay knock off wheels.
2: If the wheel is not drilled for conical lug nuts you need hub centric rings to center your wheel.
3: If in doubt, run a hub centric ring with conical lug nuts if you feel you can not properly install a lug centric wheel.
4: Properly tighten your wheels while they are OFF the ground. Do Not do the last few tightenings once the wheel is on the ground. When running a lug centric wheel you have now tightened it off center.

[Han]

I'd rather be safe than sorry. Stressing the lugs/studs more than I need to is not something I would personally want.

[Stephen]

Well its his GFs car, so go double hubcentric. Its one thing if you break something on your car, its a whole nother thing if you screw up hers

But my point is adapters are safe, lots of people run them

[simsima325]

Thanks for the info guys. So at minimum I should factor in 20mm additional for the adapters, and I was unaware of the hubcentric and wheelcentric issue, I just figured I'd look for something hubcentric, but looks like there is more to it than that.

Yes, safety is the primary concern, I wouldn't put her on something I wouldn't rock myself, of course.

[Tropicana]

adaptec makes 15mm adapters as well

[Han]

adaptec makes 15mm adapters as well

I personally wouldn't run 15mm adapters. If 5mm more poke makes or break the whole set of wheels and the stance, you should be looking a different wheels. 5mm is like a stack of 20 sheets of paper, but that's still quite a bit of actual aluminum material that is not there compared to 20mm.

[Ignapu]

Also, my friends company, who I design products for on the side can make custom adapters as well.

www.euroimagetuning.com

Yup the guys at Euro Image will be able to make a set! I am going to have Kevin make a 20mm 5x100 to 5x120 in a bit!

I personally wouldn't run 15mm adapters. If 5mm more poke makes or break the whole set of wheels and the stance, you should be looking a different wheels. 5mm is like a stack of 20 sheets of paper, but that's still quite a bit of actual aluminum material that is not there compared to 20mm.

I am running 15mm adapters from adaptec and I havent had any issues with them. IMO they are still strong enough to hold the wheel on there!

[Tropicana]

if you look at a 20mm the stud is sunk in 5mm more then it is on a 15mm adapter, its not much difference... id trust a 15mm just as much as a 20mm, if i didnt have to run adapters, i wouldnt though

[Pablo]

i've been dealing with a place and can get anyone anything they need for a discounted price. just hit me up. if it sounds fishy you can even call and pay them directly with cc only you will get my discount. all custom just like others out their just trying to help some people out. we are actually thinking about becoming a paid advertiser on here soon. i dont have alot of posts here but im on the good sellers list on vortex as well as alot of other forums.

[Effin' Euro]

matt at adaptec is great. quick build time, great customer service. i have been talking to him about ordering my adapters 4x100->5x120, and will definately be ordering from him as soon as i figure out what i want my finaly offsets to be.