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dang that sucks. Another question, since it's a mild roll (I would say the fender is rolled up to about 45 degrees), do you think it's possible to smooth out the notchiness by rolling it flat? The mild roll looks like crap anyways and I would prefer to have it rolled flat. I'm planning to lower my car again in the near future. Thanks again for your help!
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Originally posted by eshine1 View PostHi Tony, hopefully you can help me out. I had the rear fenders rolled few years ago. It's a mild roll i guess since since it's not flat. My concern is that the arch was left slightly notchy looking. It's not smooth and round like factory. I'm guessing this is caused by the spot welds? Could this be fixed? It didn't bother me back then, but now since I'm going back to the factory look, it's starting to annoy me. The guy who rolled it also left the rear quarters rippled above the arch, which I plan to get fixed with PDR. He literally took 20 minutes to do both rears, but reading through this thread, it doesn't seem like thats normal. This is for 94 Toyota Supra. Any help appreciated, thanks!
Unfortunatly the factory spot welds can be an issue on some cars. the Supras and Evos seem to be the worst for it.
Its kind of random too, some cars will have nice even welds and cause no problems, but others will have one or two bad weld which are very hard roll over and can really screw things up if you're not careful.
If the damage is on the outer arch ( where it can be seen from street level ),once the damage is done its going to be hard to repair easily ( without a little bondo action ), in some cases working the area with a body hammer and dolly can help to regain the shape, but you're dealing with a double skinned panel, so its tough,
if its just on the under side, on the lip itself, then a good working with a body hammer will cure it.
PDR for the quarters is a great idea, those guys can work wonders.
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[QUOTE=Tonys18t;249233]Havent been to Vegas in a while, i'm due a trip.QUOTE]
Let me know. I'm sure I could get a few people who need a roll and pull thats done properly and I get nice room rates at the casino I work at.
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Hi Tony, hopefully you can help me out. I had the rear fenders rolled few years ago. It's a mild roll i guess since since it's not flat. My concern is that the arch was left slightly notchy looking. It's not smooth and round like factory. I'm guessing this is caused by the spot welds? Could this be fixed? It didn't bother me back then, but now since I'm going back to the factory look, it's starting to annoy me. The guy who rolled it also left the rear quarters rippled above the arch, which I plan to get fixed with PDR. He literally took 20 minutes to do both rears, but reading through this thread, it doesn't seem like thats normal. This is for 94 Toyota Supra. Any help appreciated, thanks!
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Originally posted by Cadi View Postdone any fenders recently? =DWhats up Chris... yeah rolled the fenders on some crazy Cuban's Lexus,
Originally posted by incon3037r View PostIf you ever make it down to Vegas I could use a good roll and pull.
My G8 on the right
Havent been to Vegas in a while, i'm due a trip.
Originally posted by conski View PostHave you rolled/ pulled any W124 Mercedes?
Specifically the 300CE. The fenders already have a decent flare and since it is a coupe I dont have to worry about the door to rear fender transition. I want a better stanced look though. I am new to the process as well so any tips would be greatly appreciated.
Originally posted by roflcommando View PostTony you rocked My 335i and Michel's a4 avant in driveway. Thanks for making house calls.
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Tony you rocked My 335i and Michel's a4 avant in driveway. Thanks for making house calls.
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Have you rolled/ pulled any W124 Mercedes?
Specifically the 300CE. The fenders already have a decent flare and since it is a coupe I dont have to worry about the door to rear fender transition. I want a better stanced look though. I am new to the process as well so any tips would be greatly appreciated.
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If you ever make it down to Vegas I could use a good roll and pull.
My G8 on the right
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The wheels were just a test fit on the 240, the car was too clean to modify the bodywork ( it was mint) so the guy settled for a very light pull instead and some smaller wheels.
yeah, fender work is not a cure all for sure.
i always tell people to understand how their suspension works and get clued up on offsets and such before they buy the wheels.
its a mix of fender work, offset, stretch and camber... and taste
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I think its a good idea to point out that there is only so much rolling and pulling you can do before the car looks fucked up. Spring rate and shock valving also play a large roll in making wheels fit. Rolling the fender will get the car to roll. Suspension will protect things from getting smashed.
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Hahaa, tight man. I catch myself from time to lusting after similar wheels (old school amrican racing, boyds and centerlines) in my area on astro vans, trucks with those mexicalli wide kits and stuff. Good too see someone else out there thinks the same. Now I feel not so guilty like it was a dirty little secret or something, lol. Any pics of his ride complete after the pull and wheels/tires mounted?...pleeeease
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I've done a few of them and didnt really notice that they were any more difficult than most other cars.
heavier gauge metal just takes a little more time to work, but the method is pretty much the same
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Quick question...
Being in SoCal, I'm sure you've rolled/pulled a few Ford Foci over the years.My wheels are perfectly flush, and I have no stretch on the tires, so rolling is a must. The Focus has a notoriously difficult rear fender to work with, as it is very thick and heavy gage. If you remember doing any, could you possibly throw some tips my way? If need be, I can grab a pick of the fenders in question, and we can go from there. Any help is VERY much appreciated
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"a mans gotta know his limitations"
tried my old Centerlines on Jimmy's S13, needs a slight pull to fit, lol.
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