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  • #91
    I've done a few of them and didnt really notice that they were any more difficult than most other cars.

    heavier gauge metal just takes a little more time to work, but the method is pretty much the same
    Yeah, i'm that guy you've heard about that rolls and pulls fenders in SoCal , hit me up .

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    • #92
      Hahaa, tight man. I catch myself from time to lusting after similar wheels (old school amrican racing, boyds and centerlines) in my area on astro vans, trucks with those mexicalli wide kits and stuff. Good too see someone else out there thinks the same. Now I feel not so guilty like it was a dirty little secret or something, lol. Any pics of his ride complete after the pull and wheels/tires mounted?...pleeeease

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      • #93
        I think its a good idea to point out that there is only so much rolling and pulling you can do before the car looks fucked up. Spring rate and shock valving also play a large roll in making wheels fit. Rolling the fender will get the car to roll. Suspension will protect things from getting smashed.

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        • #94
          The wheels were just a test fit on the 240, the car was too clean to modify the bodywork ( it was mint) so the guy settled for a very light pull instead and some smaller wheels.

          yeah, fender work is not a cure all for sure.

          i always tell people to understand how their suspension works and get clued up on offsets and such before they buy the wheels.
          its a mix of fender work, offset, stretch and camber... and taste
          Yeah, i'm that guy you've heard about that rolls and pulls fenders in SoCal , hit me up .

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          • #95
            done any fenders recently? =D

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            • #96
              If you ever make it down to Vegas I could use a good roll and pull.



              My G8 on the right

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              • #97
                Have you rolled/ pulled any W124 Mercedes?

                Specifically the 300CE. The fenders already have a decent flare and since it is a coupe I dont have to worry about the door to rear fender transition. I want a better stanced look though. I am new to the process as well so any tips would be greatly appreciated.
                1990 Mercedes 300CE- 24 valve

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                • #98
                  Tony you rocked My 335i and Michel's a4 avant in driveway. Thanks for making house calls.

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                  • #99
                    Originally posted by Cadi View Post
                    done any fenders recently? =D
                    Whats up Chris... yeah rolled the fenders on some crazy Cuban's Lexus,







                    Originally posted by incon3037r View Post
                    If you ever make it down to Vegas I could use a good roll and pull.



                    My G8 on the right

                    Havent been to Vegas in a while, i'm due a trip.

                    Originally posted by conski View Post
                    Have you rolled/ pulled any W124 Mercedes?

                    Specifically the 300CE. The fenders already have a decent flare and since it is a coupe I dont have to worry about the door to rear fender transition. I want a better stanced look though. I am new to the process as well so any tips would be greatly appreciated.
                    Its a pretty easy car to work with, you just have to be careful with the fender roller because the cars have squared off fenders, not perfect round arcs like most cars. also the front fenders curve in a fair bit before they meet the bumper. I always prefer to work them by hand, old skool style, you get a much better job that way.

                    Originally posted by roflcommando View Post
                    Tony you rocked My 335i and Michel's a4 avant in driveway. Thanks for making house calls.
                    Thanks dude.
                    Yeah, i'm that guy you've heard about that rolls and pulls fenders in SoCal , hit me up .

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                    • Hi Tony, hopefully you can help me out. I had the rear fenders rolled few years ago. It's a mild roll i guess since since it's not flat. My concern is that the arch was left slightly notchy looking. It's not smooth and round like factory. I'm guessing this is caused by the spot welds? Could this be fixed? It didn't bother me back then, but now since I'm going back to the factory look, it's starting to annoy me. The guy who rolled it also left the rear quarters rippled above the arch, which I plan to get fixed with PDR. He literally took 20 minutes to do both rears, but reading through this thread, it doesn't seem like thats normal. This is for 94 Toyota Supra. Any help appreciated, thanks!

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                      • [QUOTE=Tonys18t;249233] Havent been to Vegas in a while, i'm due a trip.QUOTE]

                        Let me know. I'm sure I could get a few people who need a roll and pull thats done properly and I get nice room rates at the casino I work at.

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                        • Originally posted by eshine1 View Post
                          Hi Tony, hopefully you can help me out. I had the rear fenders rolled few years ago. It's a mild roll i guess since since it's not flat. My concern is that the arch was left slightly notchy looking. It's not smooth and round like factory. I'm guessing this is caused by the spot welds? Could this be fixed? It didn't bother me back then, but now since I'm going back to the factory look, it's starting to annoy me. The guy who rolled it also left the rear quarters rippled above the arch, which I plan to get fixed with PDR. He literally took 20 minutes to do both rears, but reading through this thread, it doesn't seem like thats normal. This is for 94 Toyota Supra. Any help appreciated, thanks!
                          rippled quarters and notchy finish on a mild roll sounds pretty bad.
                          Unfortunatly the factory spot welds can be an issue on some cars. the Supras and Evos seem to be the worst for it.
                          Its kind of random too, some cars will have nice even welds and cause no problems, but others will have one or two bad weld which are very hard roll over and can really screw things up if you're not careful.

                          If the damage is on the outer arch ( where it can be seen from street level ),once the damage is done its going to be hard to repair easily ( without a little bondo action ), in some cases working the area with a body hammer and dolly can help to regain the shape, but you're dealing with a double skinned panel, so its tough,

                          if its just on the under side, on the lip itself, then a good working with a body hammer will cure it.

                          PDR for the quarters is a great idea, those guys can work wonders.
                          Yeah, i'm that guy you've heard about that rolls and pulls fenders in SoCal , hit me up .

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                          • dang that sucks. Another question, since it's a mild roll (I would say the fender is rolled up to about 45 degrees), do you think it's possible to smooth out the notchiness by rolling it flat? The mild roll looks like crap anyways and I would prefer to have it rolled flat. I'm planning to lower my car again in the near future. Thanks again for your help!

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                            • If you have bad or uneven welds, rolling the fender lip flat wont help. it might actually do more harm than good.
                              Yeah, i'm that guy you've heard about that rolls and pulls fenders in SoCal , hit me up .

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                              • After seeing that gen2 MS3, I can see how it would look when I eventually go low. I may have to travel or research someone nearby or at least in the same state to get it done right and looking good the first and only time.

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