Fender Rolling and Pulling

[mikey G]

Haha I still havn't touched my e90. Im out of the country again but I return next month. I have wheels, suspension, trunk lid, bumpers and lights to install when I get back....I really need to roll my fenders as soon as I return lol. They are waiting for the 18x10.5 18x12's

[SGM330]

Haha I still havn't touched my e90. Im out of the country again but I return next month. I have wheels, suspension, trunk lid, bumpers and lights to install when I get back....I really need to roll my fenders as soon as I return lol. They are waiting for the 18x10.5 18x12's

Hey Mikey, all e9x sedans have metal fenders only!

[mikey G]

Dude I think i'm retarted then! lol, I swear my front fenders are plastic.

[D4VY]

I have metal ones but if I could choose I would choose fenders from plastic !
This winter going to roll the fenders in the front, the rear ones will do themselves.

[SGM330]

Dude I think i'm retarted then! lol, I swear my front fenders are plastic.

loll double check but even aftermarket sedan e90 NON M fenders are all metal

[mikey G]

True, gunna have to re-look when I get home from overseas in about 2 months. I swear every time I start a project I get sent away. Talk about annoying!

[Tonys18t]

just run a fridge magnet over them.

[J.Drama]

I drove my lazy ass from Orange County to Tony's and I wasn't disappointed. He knows what he's doing and he did exactly what I wanted. Thanks Tony.

PS: I was the guy with the white Focus.

[Tonys18t]

thanks man,

[Torethuen]

Mercedes W220 s320

Hey, have anyone ever tried to roll/pull a S-class w220 ?
i just bought some kleemann rims 10,5x20 et40 with 285/30/r20, but im having rubbing issues in the rear, even tho the car now sits high. i tired to roll the fender lip with a rubber mallet and a plier with some wood to not damage the paint, but it dident relly help as the lip already is pretty rolled original. also grinded off some tabs between the rear bumber and guard. but still rubbing when the car is leaning in a hard turn with bumbs, not rubbing over straight bumbs. how big result can i get from pulling the fender ? i relly want the 285's to fit, but im afraid i have to buy some new 275/30/20 tiers...

Thanks for any help or suggestions
A picture of the car:

[Tonys18t]

looks good, you can normally pull the fenders pretty cleanly, but the area behind the bumper and the rear door will eventually limit things

[Jerome89]

I was wondering if you ever pulled the rear fenders of a BMW E60. I'm considering doing mine because I'm looking to put on wider spacers. I saw the edge is quite thick, so I was hoping to get some advice

[Tonys18t]

a lot will depend on the thickness of the spacer. 12mm seems to popular with e60 guys, shave the fender rather than roll it, it will be cleaner and give you more space for your car

[bicycle_wreck]

First of all I would like to thank you all for your contributions to this thread. I've read it several times and have learned quite a bit. I registered to this forum just to post here.

Unfortunately, I didn't find it until after I had already rolled one of my rear quarters on my 2012 WRX. I have a new set of Enkei NT03+Ms in 18x9.5 et40 that I'm going to wrap in 265/35R18 Bridgestone Potenza S-04 Pole Positions.

This is a popular fitment for the 2011-2014 WRX since it has pretty accommodating fenders. I was told that I would need a roll in the rear to avoid rubbing under hard cornering or heavy loads. Since I do Solo II events (autoX), I figured I should roll them to be safe.

Well, after a few hours battling with a borrowed fender roller that was constantly binding up under adjustment, I unintentionally pulled the arch, and the rear of the quarter---where it meets the rear bumper cover---kind of dives into the body work. It definitely messes up the factory body line.

My question is: is this even worth trying to fix? It seems like it might be one of those things made worse if someone inexperienced (i.e., me) tries to fix it. I was thinking about removing the bumper cover and finishing the roll on the back of the quarter to try to even it up. I think the bumper would still reach, but I think there is a possibility I would make it worse.

The other thought was to see a PDR specialist to see if they could smooth it out somehow. The rest of the roll turned out OK, with minimal cracking (I accidentally creased about 1.5" inches of the front arch, but you can't really see it unless you're looking at it from underneath).

Any insight is appreciated, and again I found this thread to be invaluable, so thank you all. My second quarter has yet to be rolled since the roller I borrowed seized up despite repeated lubrications and inspections. The allthread portion finally just spit out threads--cheap Chinese pot metal is my guess. An Eastwood fender is on the way. Pics below.









All for these guys:

[unknown-sss]

Panel correction for WRX 11-14

You can correct that section and un-curl it by using pliers and a rag.
* Heat up that lower section first and start slowly by unfolding the lip gradually working it back so it becomes like a L shape. This distortion damage will always show on this panel design. To avoid it I shave back 5cm back that section to obtain a factory undisturbed look.
* This curl/distortion will always happen on a panel design where the metal lip meets the rear bar. In saying that, this is your scrubbing axis where if you lower your car, the tyre wall will scrub.
* If this is the case, the rear bar needs to be trimmed diagonally near the screw mount.
* Be careful when you heat the WRX 2011-14 models that you do not sag the sealant line that travels along the guard lip.
* Paint thickness measurement should read anywhere from 46-60 microns for factory WRX paint and should be heated appropriately from 180-205f using a digital heat temperature gun.
* If you plan on doing the fronts, you will need to taper off and refrain from using the Guard rolling tool as it is a single gauge sheet which will cause high distortion and movement on the guard that may cause guard to dis-align from guard to door. I suggest using the traditional mallet technique with a fender finisher.
* Fronts have a squared dual tab situated at 12oclock and 2oclock rear of guard on passenger in which you need to trim the splash liner before starting.
* Paint micron thickness on WRX fronts are 25-44 micron layers at most which is a concern in which you will have to work half a guard section at a time as the paint will crack if performed in the 1 heating pass.

Good to see your top work Tony, I am from Australia and have worked on many cars and just like you have shaved, cut, rolled, flare, pulled and played around guards for many many years.