Tweet
Originally posted by 06tiburonofdoom
View Post
Yeah, the front is definitely the tricky part. With stock arms, as long as you cut/raise the strut towers, you're good to go. But with aftermarket arms, you start running into problems, since as you add camber, it pitches the arm up even higher.
The first thing I tried (after making as much clearance as humanly possible) was fabricating a spacer to put between the control arm-to-strut tower mounting point, in hopes of barely making extra clearance for the arm to come up. It did a small amount of good, but the arms are STILL bottomed out on the towers, and the knuckle is completely pressed against the spring due to the camber+ride height combo. So there is literally no downwards suspension travel whatsoever.
It might sound like a good thing, but trust me...it's not. It's the reason the car has only been driven twice in the last year.
The only sure-fire solution is to shorten the knuckle itself (the part that goes from the hub to the upper ball joint). Depending on where you cut it, you can get more camber from it, more suspension travel from it, or both. I need about a degree more negative camber (it's about -7 or 7.5 now) and A LOT more suspension travel, so that's really the only solution for me. Just be positive that it gets welded together as strongly as possible if you do it! It's a pretty vital part to be cutting up and putting back together. Haha
Another positive is that it'll put the control arm back at a much more desirable angle, and you won't have to max out your camber adjustment (if you needed to in the first place).
Sorry for the TL;DR post! Haha Hopefully it made some sense.
The first thing I tried (after making as much clearance as humanly possible) was fabricating a spacer to put between the control arm-to-strut tower mounting point, in hopes of barely making extra clearance for the arm to come up. It did a small amount of good, but the arms are STILL bottomed out on the towers, and the knuckle is completely pressed against the spring due to the camber+ride height combo. So there is literally no downwards suspension travel whatsoever.
It might sound like a good thing, but trust me...it's not. It's the reason the car has only been driven twice in the last year.
The only sure-fire solution is to shorten the knuckle itself (the part that goes from the hub to the upper ball joint). Depending on where you cut it, you can get more camber from it, more suspension travel from it, or both. I need about a degree more negative camber (it's about -7 or 7.5 now) and A LOT more suspension travel, so that's really the only solution for me. Just be positive that it gets welded together as strongly as possible if you do it! It's a pretty vital part to be cutting up and putting back together. Haha
Another positive is that it'll put the control arm back at a much more desirable angle, and you won't have to max out your camber adjustment (if you needed to in the first place).
Sorry for the TL;DR post! Haha Hopefully it made some sense.
Comment