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1983 Volvo 242

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  • #31
    Originally posted by stealthfighter1 View Post
    good body + turbo motor ...
    The beige car is running 10 lbs already with a straight pipe

    Originally posted by zturnidge View Post
    Awesome!
    what suspension you running? on both.
    Cut springs

    Originally posted by Average_Jerk View Post
    Are you going to IA?
    I was going to, but Not anymore. I'm tryin to head to simply clean though. And of course, H20 and waterfest. My trip budget is gettin used up fast
    sigpic

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    • #32
      Awesome sauce.
      SAABaru.
      IvyLeagueEast

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      • #33
        The rust eaten fenders kind of go. In a drive-this-mother-everywhere sort of way. Personally, I would only fix them if I was going to repaint the entire car, get the interior cherry, spend a bunch of money on wheels and go all out. Which wouldn't happen anyways. HAHA. I say just roll hard.
        Only bc of SW have I been on turbobrick. And i am thoroughly confused still. Total Volvo newb but could you post some engine specs or potential? I feel like there is more than meets the eye with this...

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        • #34
          The engines are called red block, cause they paint them red, the blocks are all essentially the same, range from 1.9L up to 2.3L factory, the differences come down to block mount distributor or head mounts, and what fuel injection you are running.

          They all start with B, and the number indicates the size of the engine, then F, the last letter indicate if its turbo or not.

          So you get B21FT which is early 2.1L turbo engine with T3 turbo and K-jet injection, K-jet is fine, but not a fan.

          The most ideal engine you want is a B230FT which was available on most Volvos after 90, after 90 they came with LH2.4 management, which is lot smarter than LH2.2 and the guys have cracked enough that you can flash the ecu yourself, and quite a few have gotten into 12s in the 1/4 with simple turbo upgrade/exhaust/injectors/tune, these engines are known to make A LOT of torque under boost and pretty stout, the owners are usually known to be notoriously cheap, but very resourceful, just take a look at TB.

          If you were to build a 240 with mint body, you'd want to start with a 1994 940 Turbo engine, the reason why is because in 94 they began using oil squirter block, while its not a huge deal, but it does make a difference, and you can swap in different transmission as the factory M46/47 manual is not that great, it shifts horrible too.

          Take a look around, there's huge amount of info bury in TB's website, a lot of very smart folks who did a lot of things with those engines, unfortunately some of them no longer post there.

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          • #35
            Holy shit, that ass is sweet

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            • #36
              Originally posted by Chigga View Post
              The engines are called red block, cause they paint them red, the blocks are all essentially the same, range from 1.9L up to 2.3L factory, the differences come down to block mount distributor or head mounts, and what fuel injection you are running.

              They all start with B, and the number indicates the size of the engine, then F, the last letter indicate if its turbo or not.

              So you get B21FT which is early 2.1L turbo engine with T3 turbo and K-jet injection, K-jet is fine, but not a fan.

              The most ideal engine you want is a B230FT which was available on most Volvos after 90, after 90 they came with LH2.4 management, which is lot smarter than LH2.2 and the guys have cracked enough that you can flash the ecu yourself, and quite a few have gotten into 12s in the 1/4 with simple turbo upgrade/exhaust/injectors/tune, these engines are known to make A LOT of torque under boost and pretty stout, the owners are usually known to be notoriously cheap, but very resourceful, just take a look at TB.

              If you were to build a 240 with mint body, you'd want to start with a 1994 940 Turbo engine, the reason why is because in 94 they began using oil squirter block, while its not a huge deal, but it does make a difference, and you can swap in different transmission as the factory M46/47 manual is not that great, it shifts horrible too.

              Take a look around, there's huge amount of info bury in TB's website, a lot of very smart folks who did a lot of things with those engines, unfortunately some of them no longer post there.
              WTF ^ A helpful, informative, engine-related post........ on Stanceworks? There is a God.

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              • #37
                yes, absolutely yes.

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                • #38
                  Originally posted by Ollie View Post
                  I'd chop out the fenders and all the rust, bolt on some flares with the rears raised a bit to go lower out back,and run some crazy widths. It's one of the few times I wouldnt feel bad chopping the fenders off my car lol
                  I was thinking the same thing.

                  Awesome pick up! Kind of jealous. I want to get a beater volvo this winter so I can keep the wagon clean.
                  sigpic
                  GARAGE | THE PROFESSOR

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                  • #39
                    Did you cut your bump stops in the front? I`m all bottomed out and still not as low as you. Fuuu!

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                    • #40
                      damn, the front lights, they have something
                      Floccinaucinihilipilification

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                      • #41
                        Originally posted by marcoSTEEZ View Post
                        WTF ^ A helpful, informative, engine-related post........ on Stanceworks? There is a God.
                        Haha, its because I've been around them for long enough to absorb those things, my Volvo is my first love in automobiles and still is, I still wash it and leave it in the garage, just waiting to finish the E39 up and begin to work on the Volvo for next year.

                        The internet has come a long way in sharing information and bringing people together to pool resources, back in 1998/99, when most people still using mailing list, doing 14's in the 1/4 is big deal, doing 13's means you are GOD, and people would use huge turbo, nitrous, manual valve body built tranny with 3200stall to get into 13's and blow up every other weekends, now its $600 later you are doing 13's all day long in a 20yr old turbo Volvo, couple grand more and you can do 12's.

                        By no means I know a lot, there are so many out there that are insanely intelligent and have huge wealth of knowledge that I probably can't process in this life time, but here are some simple stuff you can browse over.

                        For LH2.4 DIY tuning: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=227153

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                        • #42
                          I love that comparison Pic

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                          • #43
                            Originally posted by Andersg View Post
                            Did you cut your bump stops in the front? I`m all bottomed out and still not as low as you. Fuuu!
                            yep
                            sigpic

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                            • #44
                              i love this already. i don't mind the rust at all its got ummm....character. and lots of it

                              will i be seeing this car at h2o? i hope
                              i <3 fatties

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                              • #45
                                of course!
                                sigpic

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