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  • Dutchy
    replied
    Originally posted by ealoken View Post
    hehe, i just needed to post my friends car, the engine is a 25000$ build..... so i know why you dont do that.
    I don't blame you, sounds rediculously awesome, and he certainly knows how to use it.

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  • ealoken
    replied
    hehe, i just needed to post my friends car, the engine is a 25000$ build..... so i know why you dont do that.

    Leave a comment:


  • Dutchy
    replied
    Originally posted by DeeAOne View Post
    Just read your entire build thread. Love the work done so far.

    FYI, theres an gray 325is running around atlanta with an sr too. lol
    Thanks

    Got a link to pics or a build? Would love to see more sr's in e30's

    Originally posted by Anthony B View Post
    haha 8k in an sr is fun

    the article i had is all syn oils they had 10w-60 full syn. If you keep on the oil service side you'll be fine.

    Im thinking the SR for the weight side of things & 1j & rb swaps leave no room in the bay haha
    I'm going to see how 10w-30 works for it, the lower the spread, the higher quality the oil, so I don't want to go as extreme as 10-40 or 50 or 60 but we'll see.

    Yeah the sr is insanely light weight, although I have no experience with rb or 1j's weights. SR leaves a fair amount of room which is nice

    Originally posted by ealoken View Post

    9500 rpm sr2.2.
    750 bhp...
    Nice, it's awfully tempting to build a high rpm head for it, but my bank account says no no no haha

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  • ealoken
    replied
    [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=csW8-zsmeGA"]‪Team BS Bildeler Silvia S13 SR22VET - GMS September 2010‬‏ - YouTube[/ame]

    9500 rpm sr2.2.
    750 bhp...

    Leave a comment:


  • Anthony B
    replied
    haha 8k in an sr is fun

    the article i had is all syn oils they had 10w-60 full syn. If you keep on the oil service side you'll be fine.

    Im thinking the SR for the weight side of things & 1j & rb swaps leave no room in the bay haha

    Leave a comment:


  • DeeAOne
    replied
    Just read your entire build thread. Love the work done so far.

    FYI, theres an gray 325is running around atlanta with an sr too. lol

    Leave a comment:


  • Dutchy
    replied
    Originally posted by Anthony B View Post
    love it

    Im deciding weather to go the sr20 or a 1j in my 1990 e30, sr20 are fairly bullet proof they dont like being rev'd out hard though the hydro lifts can move under high revs hence why alot of big hp cars go sold like tomie or hks but the stoppers you have will help out.

    I'll try dig up an article i had on the SR20 there a ridiculosly popular engine in aus, it ran through the best oil for it & the best thing for it a larger capacity sump cause the stock one is like a kids drink bottle & can led to starvation againat high rpm.

    all in all high rpm + sr = broken
    Thanks man

    1jz is a good choice, sticking with an inline six like that or an RB is the ideal way to go, but both motor's go for quite a bit more money, and both involve remote brake booster setups, something I didn't want to do.

    Thanks for the advice, I plan on doing some extreme oil maintenance to avoid another spun bearing. Have 4 oem filters in my box for it. I'll be starting it, warming it up to bleed the coolant, go for a spin in the parking lot, bring it back in, drain the oil and change the filter. Then run it for around 1000km's, and do the same. Make sure anything in the engine from the rebuild/initial break in doesn't stay in the engine. I'm hoping that will help. After that frequent oil changes, oil pressure and temp gauges along with an external cooler.

    Half the fun of the sr is spinning it to 8k :P

    Update

    Progress progress progress, it's all I care about at this point, wanting to drive it so badly. Cleared the bay again this morning, let it dry while I did my job. Then 5pm hit (or sometime at the end of the day haha), cracked a beer and got to work.

    Started putting the front end back together, threw in some shorter springs up front, modded the steering linkage for the e36 rack, installed front subframe/suspension again, installed brake booster, master, some wiring, SS brake lines up front (do the rears later) and redid the hardlines for the front to tidy it up by the master. (deleted abs when i originally did the swap and it left my lines looking rather crappy) It's all bled, pedal is rock hard so threw the wheels back on, and torqued them for the first time in a long time in anticapation of a test drive





    Last edited by Dutchy; 07-27-2011, 12:46 AM.

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  • Anthony B
    replied
    love it

    Im deciding weather to go the sr20 or a 1j in my 1990 e30, sr20 are fairly bullet proof they dont like being rev'd out hard though the hydro lifts can move under high revs hence why alot of big hp cars go sold like tomie or hks but the stoppers you have will help out.

    I'll try dig up an article i had on the SR20 there a ridiculosly popular engine in aus, it ran through the best oil for it & the best thing for it a larger capacity sump cause the stock one is like a kids drink bottle & can led to starvation againat high rpm.

    all in all high rpm + sr = broken

    Leave a comment:


  • Dutchy
    replied
    Update

    Sprayed the bay, and some clear, gunna lay some more clear tomorrow morning for heavy gloss



    Leave a comment:


  • Dutchy
    replied
    Update

    Tough crowd huh? Guess I'll make a thread in the showroom when it's finished up. But for now, on to some progress.

    Seem's like the bay has taken me the most time out of anything, beginning to regret the brilliant idea of filling some holes and making the bay a bit cleaner. But the prep is pretty well done, just got go over with fine sand paper, then spray base, followed by clear.







    Went over it again after the first round of primer, sanded the rest of the sides of the bay and primer'd some more.


    and tucked away with the engine for the night.


    Once the painting is done, it's just reassembly, there's a few small thing's I'd like to redo in the process, but it should be straight forward (hopefully) and not take too long.

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  • Dutchy
    replied
    Originally posted by ealoken View Post
    you just have to use rockerarm stopper and a good Oil.

    Have you tought of any external oil cooler?
    I'm running Greddy rocker arm stoppers, have been searching on what oil to run, I'd prefer to stay away from synthetic's and just change oil every 3000-5000 kms. I'm leaning towards 10w-30 shell rotella T. Any recommendations for that?

    I have been thinking about doing an oil cooler, along with oil temp and pressure gauges. I'll likely do the gauges, then do the cooler next year. The car is only going to get driven untill late october-early november this year. Then it's duties will become much different next year.

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  • ealoken
    replied
    you just have to use rockerarm stopper and a good Oil.

    Have you tought of any external oil cooler?

    Leave a comment:


  • Dutchy
    replied
    Originally posted by ealoken View Post
    why do you put the least reliable engine in the most reliable car?

    i have a SR20 that i use as an anker to my boat in the harbour...


    But cool project
    Guess i needed to learn the hard way Hoping it works out better with the rebuild, but I guess only time will tell.

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  • ealoken
    replied
    why do you put the least reliable engine in the most reliable car?

    i have a SR20 that i use as an anker to my boat in the harbour...


    But cool project

    Leave a comment:


  • Dutchy
    replied
    Update

    Well, I said I'd have some pics, but I ended up working on the car/motor more then taking pics. Good for me, bad for you :P

    Here's a pic of the motor pretty well assembled, after this pic I installed the oil pickup, baffles and upper and lower pans, the new tstat and a few coolant housings. Then masked any openings I didnt want overspray on/in and sprayed the engine flat black, tomorrow I'll finish installing the manifolds etc and it will be pretty well ready to go in. I guess it's time to get my ass in gear on the bay.

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