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The mounts have rubber trim around the shock shaft to allow for flex.
The early connector actually has 3 pins more. 1 power, 2 inputs. They were all wired. Not sure to what and I didnt think to test before cutting.
I am sure it is something like you described. My problem is that I have a different switch now so if the switch is not capable of what the car is, thats just how it goes. Nothing I can do to wire it different. I dont really care much anyway. It works as needed. Thanks for the thoughts and input.
Good work on bringing the car closer to ground. Are these solid mounts, there seems to be a rubber piece (the stamped ring part around the hole) but I think the picture is deceiving me.
About the momentary brights - the early connector you had appears to have 2 pins more than the late one, were they wired? It could be something small ... I was chasing the same issue on my e28 - while the low beam is on, turn on high beam by pushing outward and it works like a charm. Pull inward to "flash" - nothing. In the end, it turned out the car was one of very few produced in a different way - while no lights are on, pull inward to "flash" and the low beam flashes instead of the high beam. It was wired differently, with different color wires (white instead of yellow iirc) than the usual wiring diagram through a relay just above the brake pedal mounted on the firewall. Also, while parked and car turned off, if you turn on the signal, instead of the parking lights, the signal would turn on as if the car was running. Found out there were two wiring diagrams for that production year.
I'm not saying this is the case for you, because it obviously worked as expected before you changed the switch, just sharing some experience that it could be something simple that is wasily overlooked.
Excited to see pictures with the new trim and more lows.
I have been driving this car for a couple weeks now and I am more than enjoying it. Its such a fun car and super comfortable.
I have had issues come up that I have had to deal with. I suppose its just working the bugs out... I hope that it all ends, I dont like having to deal with maintenance on a regular basis. I am giving this car a break because it looks to have been neglected.
Replaced every single vacuum hose
Replaced upper and lower radiator hoses
Replaced both coolant sensors
Replaced Air Flow meter (that was fun to troubleshoot)
Replaced spark plugs
Replaced turn signal switch
Replaced HVAC switches (not as bad as I thought..)
Replaced many relays/switches
Air bag was leaking so I had to replace a O ring.
Still need to replace the power steering pump..
So, lots of maintenance. Hopefully its over.
I did figure out that you can use a post face lift turn signal stalk on a pre face lift car. Mine was worn. The brights were hard to turn on, you had to find the perfect spot to push them forward. The left hand turn signal would not turn off after turning.
All I did on the post face lift turn signal stalk was cut the connectors off and solder on the similar colored wires. Everything worked out great except the momentary brights when you pull back towards yourself. Since the brights work, I am assuming its the actual switch thats not working? If anybody has a clue, I would like to hear. I couldn't find a schematic online. Momentary brights are not a big enough deal to me to worry about. It made me curious to why you even need them. I guess to signal someone, I never really use them myself though and figure if I had to, I could just turn the lights on if I am that desperate?
Early connector on top, late on bottom. Side note I think early had many different types of connectors also.
Attached similar colors and all worked out good. There is an extra power that I didnt use along with two inputs. Not sure what they were used for on the early cars. You can see them in the bottom of the picture.
I fixed the air bag O ring and while I was there, I wanted to try out the non adjustable camber plates I had made. As suspected, they dropped the car about another inch. My adjustment was pretty good also as I am around 3* camber in the front. Since this car is more about the look than performance, I actually left them since I like them so much. Its simple, lower and functional. When I sell them, its going to be a lot cheaper also.
Top plate
With the top plate making the car lower, I am now barely on the ground with my control arms and it also brought the ride height down in the back so my muffler is on the ground. I think what I am running now is close to perfect for me.
I am seriously trying to work on pictures of the car. Life has been overwhelming to say the least. I also got my front bumper situated with the new rubber trim so I am really close to where I want to be with this car at the present moment. Just two more small fixes and I think I will be there.
I personally like the Style 19 wheels on the E23. I think they are one of the best looking wheels for that car. I get that a lot dont like them though... They are not the final wheel that will be on here. I am going to make TRX wheels work, I just need more time so these are a temp wheel that I am very happy with.
Working out some of the small bugs on this car but this thing is so, so fun to drive! I am loving it!
One thing I dont get is how people drive these cars if you have even a normal sized foot. I know my foot is big but it cant be that great for regular sized shoes even? I had to bend the brake pedal out of the way so my foot would fit.
Before:
After:
Bent pedal, just like the E21...
And as promised... pictures of the interior, which I am loving...
That would be sweet, would love to watch you swap an LS into this car. Personally, I think it's the best swap for the money, so jelly we don't have a ton of LM7s in our junkyards like in the US...
Yeah, the LS swap is super cliche but for a reason. It just makes sense....
That would be sweet, would love to watch you swap an LS into this car. Personally, I think it's the best swap for the money, so jelly we don't have a ton of LM7s in our junkyards like in the US...
Man, this is gorgeous. I think the valance (BBS?) really completes the looks. Sorry if missed it, but have you disclosed the drivetrain swap plans yet?
Thanks buddy!
Eventually I am thinking of LS swapping. Higher HP, maybe 700ish?
Man, this is gorgeous. I think the valance (BBS?) really completes the looks. Sorry if missed it, but have you disclosed the drivetrain swap plans yet?
After rebuilding the front end, fixing a bunch of minor issues and installing the bumpers, I got this thing pulled out of the shop and driving!
This car is so fun to drive! I love it!
IMO, this is one of the sexist cars ever made. This car is all about looks to me. The comfort and interior touches are just a huge plus.
I just need to fix a leak in my air bag and put on the front bumper rubber strips when I get them and phase 1 will be done. (Phase 2 would just be motor/trans swap)
I hope the motor stays together long enough for me to enjoy it before I can find the time to swap everything. I will need some time as I shoudnt even have done this project with as much as I have going on.
Here are a couple of shots of the exterior. I will take some more along with some interior shots ASAP.
One of the final pieces for now are the Euro bumpers. It seems as though no built classic BMW can go without them. I actually dont mind the US bumpers too much but the Euro bumpers sure to make a huge difference on the E23.
Looks are the most important part of the US to Euro bumper switch but I also found that you lose a significant amount of weight by switching also.
US front bumper 51lb
Euro front bumper with US bracing - no data yet
Euro front bumper - no data yet
US rear bumper 53lb
Euro rear bumper with US bracing - 49.2lb
Euro rear bumper - 25.4lb
I dont have the data yet on the front bumper because I am still waiting for a good front rubber trim piece to complete my front bumper. I will update it when I weigh it all. Its significantly lighter though. I suspect it will come in about 25lb like the rear did. If so, thats about 50lb off the whole car from the switch.
Front US complete
Front Euro - US bracing..... minus the 23lb of the rear Euro bracing, the scale would not measure the front by itself. So, approx 9lb for bracing.
Rear US complete
Rear Euro - US bracing
Rear Euro complete
I did a semi restoration of the front and rear Euro bumpers by cleaning them up, adding new hardware and trying to bang out some of the dents. They came out really nice with the exception of the rear accordion rubber bits, they could use some help but at $260 ea, I will hold off and wait to find some others. They just are not that bad.
I need to button up a couple things mechanically and this should be outside and I can get some pics and drive!
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