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Dlux BMW E21 build
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I think the trans and motor are in for good now.
I did some undercoating before I put everything back in. I am planning to undercoat the whole underneath of the car but on the passenger side its coated with oil from an excessive oil leak so I will have to wait to clean that up later on and paint it then also.
Some additional pictures for those interested on how the motor fits in the bay. It really fits nice unless youre set on running the stock brake booster, then you would have to compromise somehow. Everything else fits pretty good though.
Motor is pushed all the way back, touching the firewall.
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I started working on the rear end mods.
I thought I had everything pretty sorted out on the diff. I got a open diff 2.93 ratio from the e28 subframe I pulled. I thought that would be a good ratio to run but wanted an limited slip diff.
I found an E30 limited slip in great shape. It had 3.91 gears in it. I thought it would be no problem, I would just swap the gears on to that carrier and be all set. No deal. There is a carrier break at 3.07 and on top of that, I guess BMW really didnt make a LSD for the 2.93-3.07 diffs. I guess they did make a couple but not many and I am not up for looking for this rare bird.
So, I scratched all that and bought a 3.25 LSD off Ebay. That should be here next week or so.
If you check the pic below, it will show the difference in the carriers. You will see that the ring gears are at a different height.
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The E28 subframe into E21 mod....
I am not the first to do this mod. I have seen at least 4 others document it. I will try to do my best at my version.
What the E28 subframe offers over the E21:
5 lug conversion
Much bigger/stronger gears
Better choice of gear ratios
Slightly stronger axle shafts
Disc brakes
The only downside I can see to the E28 subframe would be the extra weight. How much? I thought it was a good question so I weighed everything.
E21 subframe-complete approx 190lbs
E28 subframe-complete approx 255lbs
Trailing arm-some brakes 39lb (x 2) 78lbs
Bare subframe 29lb
Axle shafts 31lb
Diff 86lb
Rotors/calilpers/pads 31
So, looks like its approx 65lbs for the upgrade. Not too bad.
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Since I took a lot out of my oil pan and I want to run an accumulator, I had to figure out a way to tap into the motor for external oil lines.
Stock Camaro LFX has the weird paper type filter and the housing is built into the casting. I found out that a Traverse oil filter housing is more like old school housings where you spin on and off a metal filter. So now I can get a oil filter relocation kit and plump my accumulator and some larger oil filters in.
This might be good to know for Camaro guys as I know a lot are searching for ways to plumb a turbo in and this would work great for that also.
Oh, another note is that the oil pressure sender is different on the Camaro and Traverse. I didnt have a large 16mm (I think) tap and didnt want to buy one so I just bought a 16mm bolt, drilled out the center and then tapped it for the sender. Looks like it will work great.
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I think I got the e28 subframe sorted well enough that it will fit into the e21. I ran into some issues that I didnt see others running into. I am not sure if its me, my car or what?
I spent way, way more time thinking and measuring than I needed to. I quadruple checked everything and in hindsight, I dont think I needed to.
Here is a quick, dirty and easy way to install the subframe:
1- cut the ends off the E21 subframe, clean up the excess welds\
2- Cut off the ends of the E28 subframe. Cut them at the same angle as the mounts and as close as possible to the mounts.
3- Measure from the front side of the E21 ears and draw a vertical line at 1.625". Measure from the bottom side .9". (Picture shows 1.25" which is what I did. See below. This route, 1.625" would be correct.)
4- Place the front and bottom of the e28 subframe along these lines you just put on the ears and weld it in. Make sure the nut on the trailing arm clears the E21 ears. (see picture).
5- Cut a section out where the fuel filler line will hit the E28 subframe
6- Build a mount for the chassis to diff cover
The way above is easy and "dirty" because it will move the wheel back approx .375" from stock, or at least it did in my situation. I dont think it would be a huge deal to install it that way but I went thru the extra work to make it work in the stock location. The big problem is that the gas tanks get in the way and hit the subframe so you have to section out the subframe to fit in where stock would be.
The harder, yet stock fitting way:
1- cut the ends off the E21 subframe, clean up the excess welds
2- Cut off the ends of the E28 subframe. Cut them at the same angle as the mounts and as close as possible to the mounts.
3- Measure from the front side of the E21 ears and draw a vertical line at 1.25". Measure from the bottom side .9".
4- Place the front and bottom of the e28 subframe along these lines you just put on the ears and weld it in. Make sure the nut on the trailing arm clears the E21 ears. (see picture).
5- Cut a section out where the fuel filler line will hit the E28 subframe and also where the gas tanks will hit the subframe.
6- Build a mount for the chassis to diff cover
The time lost was spent thinking about how to get the subframe to sit correctly and not be crooked or off center etc. After thinking about it, really, you only need to make sure youre not crooked from side to side and up and down. Everything else pretty much takes care of itself. If you draw the lines on the E21 ears and cut the E28 subframe square, everything else pretty much takes care of itself. Oh, and a huge time sink was that I didnt want to make the E28 subframe too short. Dont worry about that because if you cut it flush with the mounts, its still tough to fit in. I cut mine flush and then took off even a touch more. If you dont, it will be hard to push all the way back where it needs to go and the wheel base will be longer, rather than stock.Last edited by Erik D_lux; 01-21-2019, 09:38 AM.
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Yeah, I am concerned with weight overall but not too crazy. I still prefer reliability over light weight.
I dont think I am going to gain much weight at all though. I lost a hair with the motor and trans swap, lost a touch with the front end and only gained about 65lb with the rear swap. So, I hope somewhere between 50-100lbs is all that I will gain? To me, thats not much and I am not concerned with it.
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Eric,,, great build. I'm the guy that posted the exhaust chart on facebook yesterday. Thought I'd mention the oil pan I'm using. It's out of a Holden and it's from Australia. They don't really seem to like shipping to the US,, but I've gotten 2. Just about $250 with shipping.
Here's one,,, and these are the guys that shipped to me
Here's my build thread,, 2015 LFX into a 2015 Scion FRS
GM LFX 3.6L V6 Motor Swap - Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community - FT86CLUBGM LFX 3.6L V6 Motor Swap Engine Swaps
pan.jpg
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Awesome build thread man! Thanks for sharing.
That pan is a super cool find. It would be so close to fitting in my car with no mods. Obviously, one of the best parts is that sump thats on the front too. I will see how mine works out.
I only made it to page 9 of your thread so far. So funny how people resist putting these motors in. IMO, they are a great option for a smaller non LS motor. All the BMW guys are telling me I am a dumb ass for putting such a huge, heavy motor in. They dont say much when I tell them it weighs less than the stock 4cyl though. LOL
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