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Finally got time to test fit my manifolds and they fit great! Plenty of clearance on my steering shaft. Had to order a straight shaft as the stock one has a rubber dampener which makes it about a 2” in diameter.
Also dove into routing the harness. I cleaned the harness up and simplified it before hand but now I gotta route it to the passenger side foot well.
Tackled the clutch conversion, from cable to hydro tonight.
Shoulda took some before photos, but I never remember
Anyways I ordered a new wilwood 3/4” bore master from amazon. Which lines right up with the existing holes
Luckily for me, Volvo had a hydraulic clutch option on their 280s. So much like vw they just make them all the same and utilize different parts depending on the setup, so everything from the hole in the firewall to another hole option in the pedal box were already there.
So I took the clutch pedal out of the box and moved it up to second set of holes which is 2” higher then the existing ones.
So now moving the pedal up 2” would obviously misalign the pedals. So I had to add two inches to length of the pedal. I also had to take the original clevis mount and cut it from the top and make a new longer one and clock it almost 180* to the bottom. This turns the pedal from a “pull” to a “push”.
Drilled a hole and attached he clevis
Here’s the box all done. And pedals sitting perfectly level.
Nothing exciting. Just a bunch of small stuff ordered to button the motor up. Now that most the mock up is done I can start finalizing And hopefully leave the engine in for good soon
O2 sensors
Thermostat
X8 plugs
Exhaust manifold bolts
Oil pan gasket
Exhaust manifold gaskets
Intake manifold gaskets
Head gaskets
Head bolts valve cover gaskets
Valley cover gasket
Water pump gasket/o-ring
Throttle body gasket and few other little gaskets
Also got a fuse box to finish up the wiring
Been a while since I updated. Got all the new seals in and engine back in. Should be in for good now. Clutch and fly wheel are all on and everything’s torqued up.
Relocated the battery to the trunk
Picked up this generic weld in battery tray at the local parts store
did some cutting a moving and it fit in there perfect
To supply/divide power I used a distribution block from a vw tdi the battery wore feeds in from the right and powers all my 12v live wires. I opened up the box and cut the bus bar at the last post. This means that last post and fuses aren’t getting power. I then ran I wire from the ignition to the post. This makes those three fuses hot on “run” so those power my injectors/coils, MAF/O2s and pcm ign power
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