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Hello everyone, my name is Tyler and here's my stupid BMW. I'm about 2 years in currently (2017) so I'm going to start from the beginning with pictures, details and try to catch up.
Here's a basic detail list:
1998 BMW 328is
Shaved bay
2JZ (expecting 1000whp)
Shooting for mid 9 sec 1/4 mile
Built to be a street car
Here is the car the day I picked it up. I daily drove the car for a little bit and ended up in a shitty situation on some black ice and this happened...
So, of course I decided to fix it. A friend of mine, his father is a body tech and we got started...luckily I had a parts car and used that quarter panel. Replaced the rear panel and frame rail due to damage. We also replaced the deck lid due to the previous owner removing some of the structure.
Andddd then I found something...a slick top roof panel for sale a few hours away. Why not? I'm already this far.
At this point, I had already pulled the motor out and started on making this car ridiculous.
This is when the ideas started...I've always been a fan of 2JZ's, extremely reliable and can make tons of HP.
So that's just what I did!
Using Freed Engineering billet motor mounts.
Plazmaman Pro Series intake manifold fits like it was meant to be! Chase bays brake booster eliminator gave me tons of room.
Being the person I am, very detail oriented, I pulled everything off of the under side to have powdercoated. Using a 210mm E34 M5 diff to help put the power to the ground. I have also switched to a billet bracket from Rallyroad at this point.
I also decided I didn't like the look of stock brakes after going this far into a build, so to make the Ultimate Driving Machine that much better, I threw on some Fortune Auto coils and some rebuilt Porsche 911 993 calipers
Using Yellow Stuff pads, paired with Adams Rotors Drag II rotors.
Since I have no brake booster, and I'm not using a factory mastercylinder, I was determined to hide all my brake lines the best I could. So, I used the rain tray. I have my line lock, and proportioning valve located in there with the lines staying in the fender well and going through the frame rail.
Trying to keep as much out of the engine bay as possible, so next on the list was the fusebox. I had the idea of mounting it behind the dash but still keeping is somewhat accessible by removing two simple things...
It was definitely not fun. I used a piece of my old roof skin to seal off the cabin from the outside once the HVAC was all removed.
Once I finished up all of the interior wiring for the chassis, then I moved onto a hidden aftermarket radio and kill switches to follow NHRA regulations. This is the exterior switch, it has a handle that drops below the car.
And the interior switch which shuts the motor down.
Myself, like most **** the cost of Toyotas V160 6 speed transmission, so I decided to go a different route...BMW's 420g 6 speed. After a nice clean and paint job, it looks great!
Here is the adapter kit that will be used.
Here is it mocked up so I can get more parts assembled and test fitted.
After I originally had the block in to see how things fit, I had a feeling that I'd have clearance issues with the adapter plate on the driver side. I was right...
Here is a finished picture.
NOW. Onto the fun stuff to make the engine bay look how it should. I started off by welding some smaller holes shut, closed off the ecu location and the fusebox location. I had the little bars above the fusebox replicated and I tack welded and panel bonded them in place to match the driver side perfectly.
It's at this point the motor/trans combo went back in. I started with fuel lines, -8an feed and -6an return.
Fuel filter and flex fuel sensor are under the factory heat shield. Both feed and return have quick disconnect fittings to make removing the manifold much easier.
Onto more lines, oil cooler! I started with a custom bracket that puts the cooler between the intercooler and radiator. Only the best parts are used, so of course it's a setrab cooler.
Oil filter relocation mounted, made by powerhouse racing.
All of the lines routed from the block to relocation etc.
Oil thermostat and Fuel pressure regulator mounted.
Catch can setup was next, so I decided to put it in my passenger fender well.
Bulkhead is just behind the shock tower.
I figured out my color scheme, Gloss Black, Black chrome, and Chevy's deep ocean blue.
More mock up and assembly.
Custom built 4.5" intercooler built by hituned performance.
Intake pipe welded, using Plazmaman clamps.
Solid mount trans bracket
Ascension Motorsports building me a milspec swap harness to work with ProEfi.
Here's a basic detail list:
1998 BMW 328is
Shaved bay
2JZ (expecting 1000whp)
Shooting for mid 9 sec 1/4 mile
Built to be a street car
Here is the car the day I picked it up. I daily drove the car for a little bit and ended up in a shitty situation on some black ice and this happened...
So, of course I decided to fix it. A friend of mine, his father is a body tech and we got started...luckily I had a parts car and used that quarter panel. Replaced the rear panel and frame rail due to damage. We also replaced the deck lid due to the previous owner removing some of the structure.
Andddd then I found something...a slick top roof panel for sale a few hours away. Why not? I'm already this far.
At this point, I had already pulled the motor out and started on making this car ridiculous.
This is when the ideas started...I've always been a fan of 2JZ's, extremely reliable and can make tons of HP.
So that's just what I did!
Using Freed Engineering billet motor mounts.
Plazmaman Pro Series intake manifold fits like it was meant to be! Chase bays brake booster eliminator gave me tons of room.
Being the person I am, very detail oriented, I pulled everything off of the under side to have powdercoated. Using a 210mm E34 M5 diff to help put the power to the ground. I have also switched to a billet bracket from Rallyroad at this point.
I also decided I didn't like the look of stock brakes after going this far into a build, so to make the Ultimate Driving Machine that much better, I threw on some Fortune Auto coils and some rebuilt Porsche 911 993 calipers
Using Yellow Stuff pads, paired with Adams Rotors Drag II rotors.
Since I have no brake booster, and I'm not using a factory mastercylinder, I was determined to hide all my brake lines the best I could. So, I used the rain tray. I have my line lock, and proportioning valve located in there with the lines staying in the fender well and going through the frame rail.
Trying to keep as much out of the engine bay as possible, so next on the list was the fusebox. I had the idea of mounting it behind the dash but still keeping is somewhat accessible by removing two simple things...
It was definitely not fun. I used a piece of my old roof skin to seal off the cabin from the outside once the HVAC was all removed.
Once I finished up all of the interior wiring for the chassis, then I moved onto a hidden aftermarket radio and kill switches to follow NHRA regulations. This is the exterior switch, it has a handle that drops below the car.
And the interior switch which shuts the motor down.
Myself, like most **** the cost of Toyotas V160 6 speed transmission, so I decided to go a different route...BMW's 420g 6 speed. After a nice clean and paint job, it looks great!
Here is the adapter kit that will be used.
Here is it mocked up so I can get more parts assembled and test fitted.
After I originally had the block in to see how things fit, I had a feeling that I'd have clearance issues with the adapter plate on the driver side. I was right...
Here is a finished picture.
NOW. Onto the fun stuff to make the engine bay look how it should. I started off by welding some smaller holes shut, closed off the ecu location and the fusebox location. I had the little bars above the fusebox replicated and I tack welded and panel bonded them in place to match the driver side perfectly.
It's at this point the motor/trans combo went back in. I started with fuel lines, -8an feed and -6an return.
Fuel filter and flex fuel sensor are under the factory heat shield. Both feed and return have quick disconnect fittings to make removing the manifold much easier.
Onto more lines, oil cooler! I started with a custom bracket that puts the cooler between the intercooler and radiator. Only the best parts are used, so of course it's a setrab cooler.
Oil filter relocation mounted, made by powerhouse racing.
All of the lines routed from the block to relocation etc.
Oil thermostat and Fuel pressure regulator mounted.
Catch can setup was next, so I decided to put it in my passenger fender well.
Bulkhead is just behind the shock tower.
I figured out my color scheme, Gloss Black, Black chrome, and Chevy's deep ocean blue.
More mock up and assembly.
Custom built 4.5" intercooler built by hituned performance.
Intake pipe welded, using Plazmaman clamps.
Solid mount trans bracket
Ascension Motorsports building me a milspec swap harness to work with ProEfi.
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