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Yeah, you probably came here because you thought this thread is about a Miata, 350Z or some fancy BMW Z. Nope, this is what it is all about...
A Smart Roadster built in March 03, one of the very first ones. Was only offered in Europe and Japan. It weighs just short of 800kg and had 82hp in stock form. Here is it's build.
It all started with this, my very first car. Yeah, I was young and had no money. Here in europe these shitboxes are dead cheap, so it was the best I could do. Doesn't need much fuel, spares are easy to get and easy on the wallet. But look, aftermarket wheels!
After two years and around 170tkm, the engine was dead. Used lots of oil, so I thought it was best to get rid of it. I looked around which cars where available here in town, and the roadster popped up. It was a very good price. Well, it had to be a good price, because it was sold in winter and had 6(!) previous owners. So I went there, did a test drive, giggled a lot and bought it. Of course, these cars look like shit in stock form, see:
So it was clear this car needs some coilovers and spacers. I went for the Bilstein B14 together with spacers from H&R with 20mm at the front and 30mm at the rear.
However, the results was not satisfying. I have to get back to that later.
Handling improved a lot. Afterwards I decided to do something about power. Installed Sandtler competition air filter and had an Ecu remap. Power went to 110hp, boost went up from 1.0bar to 1.5 bar. Along with some nice noise
No blow off installed, that's what they sound like...
After a year or so I got bored of the car and looked for something else. A Suzuki Cappuccino popped up in the area (see, I have a weird tiny-car-fetish). I did a test drive, but the asking price was too much. Afterwards I tried to further improve the handling of the Roadster. The steering had to become much crisper. Installed a Brabus steering wheel with 32cm diameter instead of 38cm. Also fitted PU bushes from Polybush to the wishbones front and rear, to the steering rack mount and to the rear axle center mount.
Because the Roadster is rear engined, the front end is very soft. To fix this, I installed a strut that connects the lower wishbones on each side. Additionally a third bush for the stabilizer was added which connects to the strut.
Bought some UHP tyres, Federal 595 RS-R.
Holy moly, now that thing is crisp! Corner speeds are incredible!
However, after a few days car went in limp home mode, boost not more then 0.5bar. Turns out the wastegate actuator was shot, it filled with oil and failed. Replaced it with the one from the Brabus Roadster. It has a stronger spring, so it can hold boost longer. Max boost went up to 1.6
Also, this is how I wrench when I have to get under the car at my parents home. It is not dumb if it works! Kitty appproves!
Car went fine through winter. Silly kids used the car as canvas...
Used the Roadster to go skiing, worked surprisingly well in the snow.
After winter I had some problems with the clutch. In wet condition, car refuses to accelerate, only the revs rise. The clutch is shot. Installed a custom unit with clutch discs from a Ford Puma. The discs can cope with the increased torque from the remap much better.
In the spring I was able to secure a Brabus exhaust for cheap from german Craigslist. Modified it a little and installed it.
Braaab-Braaab-Braaab-Braaaabuuuus!
Move along, nothing to see here...
Doesn't look good at all. See how the exhaus tips are hanging way too low? As I found out, the engine mounts were broken. More on that later... So I tried to fix it by going under the car again.
Here are some sound files from outside and inside.
Look how the exhaust is flexing and twisting under acceleration. Not good.
And the party piece of the exhaust. Friend had to film this, softtop opened, bent over the trunk to capture this.
Yep, that's a Smart!
Meanwhile tinted the rear lights because the chrome look annouyed me. Also repainted the wheels as TE-37 clones. And fitted larger paddle shifters.
Pics of all that crap fitted to the car.
200k kilometers, yay!
Said that too soon, because the oil sump was leaking at the drain. Replaced it, condition of the engine seems good. Also fitted an adapter, so I can use proper oil filter instead of the Smart crap. The adapter has a connection for an external oil temp sensor.
Regarding the engine mounts: These are taken from the standard Smart ForTwo. But these cars had a maximum hp of 61. My Roadster has twice the power, and twice the torque. So they are way too soft. Problem is that they fail prematurely and are very expensive. I fixed this by designing a reinforcement which gets printed on a 3D printer.
Problem solved. Of course you can feel the engine vibration in the car now, but the throttle response is greatly improved. Also, exhaust sits right now and doesn't flex anymore.
Fitted a Brabus wing to the trunk, cleaned the car, went out to take photos. Enjoy!
Things I need to adress:
- Buy KW V2 coilover set, get rid of Bilstein.
- Fix air intake temperature on hot summer days. I think I need a water cooled intercooler.
- Fit stabilizer with 22mm instead of 18mm diameter
If you have any questions, please ask!
A Smart Roadster built in March 03, one of the very first ones. Was only offered in Europe and Japan. It weighs just short of 800kg and had 82hp in stock form. Here is it's build.
It all started with this, my very first car. Yeah, I was young and had no money. Here in europe these shitboxes are dead cheap, so it was the best I could do. Doesn't need much fuel, spares are easy to get and easy on the wallet. But look, aftermarket wheels!
After two years and around 170tkm, the engine was dead. Used lots of oil, so I thought it was best to get rid of it. I looked around which cars where available here in town, and the roadster popped up. It was a very good price. Well, it had to be a good price, because it was sold in winter and had 6(!) previous owners. So I went there, did a test drive, giggled a lot and bought it. Of course, these cars look like shit in stock form, see:
So it was clear this car needs some coilovers and spacers. I went for the Bilstein B14 together with spacers from H&R with 20mm at the front and 30mm at the rear.
However, the results was not satisfying. I have to get back to that later.
Handling improved a lot. Afterwards I decided to do something about power. Installed Sandtler competition air filter and had an Ecu remap. Power went to 110hp, boost went up from 1.0bar to 1.5 bar. Along with some nice noise
No blow off installed, that's what they sound like...After a year or so I got bored of the car and looked for something else. A Suzuki Cappuccino popped up in the area (see, I have a weird tiny-car-fetish). I did a test drive, but the asking price was too much. Afterwards I tried to further improve the handling of the Roadster. The steering had to become much crisper. Installed a Brabus steering wheel with 32cm diameter instead of 38cm. Also fitted PU bushes from Polybush to the wishbones front and rear, to the steering rack mount and to the rear axle center mount.
Because the Roadster is rear engined, the front end is very soft. To fix this, I installed a strut that connects the lower wishbones on each side. Additionally a third bush for the stabilizer was added which connects to the strut.
Bought some UHP tyres, Federal 595 RS-R.
Holy moly, now that thing is crisp! Corner speeds are incredible!
However, after a few days car went in limp home mode, boost not more then 0.5bar. Turns out the wastegate actuator was shot, it filled with oil and failed. Replaced it with the one from the Brabus Roadster. It has a stronger spring, so it can hold boost longer. Max boost went up to 1.6
Also, this is how I wrench when I have to get under the car at my parents home. It is not dumb if it works! Kitty appproves!
Car went fine through winter. Silly kids used the car as canvas...
Used the Roadster to go skiing, worked surprisingly well in the snow.
After winter I had some problems with the clutch. In wet condition, car refuses to accelerate, only the revs rise. The clutch is shot. Installed a custom unit with clutch discs from a Ford Puma. The discs can cope with the increased torque from the remap much better.
In the spring I was able to secure a Brabus exhaust for cheap from german Craigslist. Modified it a little and installed it.
Braaab-Braaab-Braaab-Braaaabuuuus!
Move along, nothing to see here...
Doesn't look good at all. See how the exhaus tips are hanging way too low? As I found out, the engine mounts were broken. More on that later... So I tried to fix it by going under the car again.
Here are some sound files from outside and inside.
Look how the exhaust is flexing and twisting under acceleration. Not good.
And the party piece of the exhaust. Friend had to film this, softtop opened, bent over the trunk to capture this.
Yep, that's a Smart!
Meanwhile tinted the rear lights because the chrome look annouyed me. Also repainted the wheels as TE-37 clones. And fitted larger paddle shifters.
Pics of all that crap fitted to the car.
200k kilometers, yay!
Said that too soon, because the oil sump was leaking at the drain. Replaced it, condition of the engine seems good. Also fitted an adapter, so I can use proper oil filter instead of the Smart crap. The adapter has a connection for an external oil temp sensor.
Regarding the engine mounts: These are taken from the standard Smart ForTwo. But these cars had a maximum hp of 61. My Roadster has twice the power, and twice the torque. So they are way too soft. Problem is that they fail prematurely and are very expensive. I fixed this by designing a reinforcement which gets printed on a 3D printer.
Problem solved. Of course you can feel the engine vibration in the car now, but the throttle response is greatly improved. Also, exhaust sits right now and doesn't flex anymore.
Fitted a Brabus wing to the trunk, cleaned the car, went out to take photos. Enjoy!
Things I need to adress:
- Buy KW V2 coilover set, get rid of Bilstein.
- Fix air intake temperature on hot summer days. I think I need a water cooled intercooler.
- Fit stabilizer with 22mm instead of 18mm diameter
If you have any questions, please ask!
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