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My S13 240 : Ls swap, Corvette trans,ITB's, Widebody, Stupid wide wheels,

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  • DER E30
    replied
    Congrats on the metal glue gun!

    I know exactly how you feel about the drill press, Regular drills suck.

    Leave a comment:


  • kevvy_dawg
    replied
    New toys - nice.. Have you decided on a new daily yet?

    Leave a comment:


  • laextreme5
    replied
    Small update. I FINALLY BOUGHT A WELDER. Now thats out of my system. Finally bought a welder after wanting one for so long. Been using the one at the shop for small projects here and there. But not having one here at home as really hampered me and what i could do.

    Also picked up a few other things. Saw someone else using this speed blaster, and figured i could def use that on my car, anxious to try it out and see how it does! Also picked up a drill press and a belt sander. Anyone knows, if you have tried drilling through anything thicker than a thin body panel with a drill, its a major, slow, pain in the fucking ass.

    Also got some ITB's in. They are Ducati 999R items. If your not familiar with ducatis, they are 2 cylider motors. Basically what that means for these its is that they are larger than the 4 cylinder bike its such as gsxr and hayabusa's which are in the 46-48mm range where these from the ducati are 52mm. Still need to order 3 more pairs for a full set, but i just ordered this first set for mock up and test fitting.
    untitled (1 of 12) by lawrx, on Flickr


    untitled (4 of 12) by lawrx, on Flickr


    untitled (6 of 12) by lawrx, on Flickr

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    untitled (12 of 12) by lawrx, on Flickr
    Also got some ITB's in. They are Ducati 999R items. If your not familiar with ducatis, they are 2 cylider motors. Basically what that means for these its is that they are larger than the 4 cylinder bike its such as gsxr and hayabusa's which are in the 46-48mm range where these from the ducati are 52mm. Still need to order 3 more pairs for a full set, but i just ordered this first set for mock up and test fitting.


    untitled (2 of 12) by lawrx, on Flickr

    untitled (3 of 12) by lawrx, on Flickr

    Leave a comment:


  • laextreme5
    replied
    Originally posted by DER E30 View Post
    That sucker is LOW, nice work!
    I mean, we are on Stanceworks....
    Originally posted by PassionGarage View Post
    Really loving this build so far!!
    Thanks!

    Leave a comment:


  • PassionGarage
    replied
    Really loving this build so far!!

    Leave a comment:


  • DER E30
    replied
    That sucker is LOW, nice work!

    Leave a comment:


  • laextreme5
    replied
    Got home from a weekend getaway down in New Orleans, think i almost went broke on food, and id been perfectly happy if i had.

    Ok, so enough about the food. Started cutting up the front subframe to allow the motor to sit a bit lower. Before i could measure for notching the subframe, i had to remove the factory corvette shifter mounts. They were hitting the trans tunnel and not allowing me to get the trans setup to sit where i wanted it to. I also removed the front suspension as it was getting in the way with measuring and what not.
    untitled (1 of 17) by lawrx, on Flickr

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    With everything out of the way i cut off the flange that jutted out from the subframe that the steering rack mounted it. I decided to not use the standard mounting brackets and ordered a set of Villains drift solid mounts, which are weld on replacements. This allows me to have free reign of where I'm going to mount the rack. The rack will be moved forward, forward, and to the lt side compared to factory location.

    untitled (2 of 17) by lawrx, on Flickr

    untitled (6 of 17) by lawrx, on Flickr

    untitled (7 of 17) by lawrx, on Flickr

    With the subframe notched i was able to see how low i could get the motor and how the rear diff would sit, after some more minor trimming of the rear subframe. If i had to guess id say the motor is proly sitting close to 2'' lower than a typical ls swapped s13.


    untitled (8 of 17) by lawrx, on Flickr

    untitled (9 of 17) by lawrx, on Flickr

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    Bad news with motor sitting so low i ran in a bit of a problem. The bell housing is sitting an 1" below the framerails. To remedy this i need to get a flywheel and see how low it sits in comparison to the bell housing so i can see how much i can chop off of it. Also thew in my make shift strut brace to see how much room i had gained. Should have plenty of clearance to build the its now.

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    Also threw up a piece of piping to check exhaust clearance, driver side, GREAT, passenger side, not so much, some clearancing will be required for sure.

    untitled (16 of 17) by lawrx, on Flickr

    untitled (15 of 17) by lawrx, on Flickr


    With the motor sitting about where i wanted it to, i realized this thing is going to look like it will be sitting on the ground once its at ride height.

    untitled (17 of 17) by lawrx, on Flickr

    untitled (5 of 17) by lawrx, on Flickr

    Leave a comment:


  • laextreme5
    replied
    Originally posted by DER E30 View Post
    What about motorcycle ITBs? Like R1 or GSXR 1k? You could print an adaptor block/manifold and avoid machining the actual throttles themselves. I'd be worried about the precision you could get out of the throttle blade to housing clearance, most OEMs have stinking tight clearance. I can picture having different amounts of vac leaks depending on the cylinder could be a tuning nightmare.....

    Only thing is I can't picture how big they'd need to be for an LS, Bikes might be still to small.
    http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...-ITB-directory
    Looks like Busa throttles are 46mm and gixer 1k are 42mm, 600 throttles like 36-38mm

    Another nice part about bike throttles is they typically have integrated injectors and fuel rails with them. One less headache to worry about.
    Sorry, should have been more clear. I want the printer or casting method to make the intake runners, to make the transition from the cathedral port on the head to the round port on the itb.

    Ill be using Ducatti 999r Throtte bodies. They were only 2 cylinders but were large 2 cylinders, so they had large throttle bodies, 52mm. So thats not the issue. Its going from this shape,



    to this shape on the itb (the left side of photo)


    Leave a comment:


  • DER E30
    replied
    What about motorcycle ITBs? Like R1 or GSXR 1k? You could print an adaptor block/manifold and avoid machining the actual throttles themselves. I'd be worried about the precision you could get out of the throttle blade to housing clearance, most OEMs have stinking tight clearance. I can picture having different amounts of vac leaks depending on the cylinder could be a tuning nightmare.....

    Only thing is I can't picture how big they'd need to be for an LS, Bikes might be still to small.
    http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...-ITB-directory
    Looks like Busa throttles are 46mm and gixer 1k are 42mm, 600 throttles like 36-38mm

    Another nice part about bike throttles is they typically have integrated injectors and fuel rails with them. One less headache to worry about.

    Pretty cheap also,
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/1305561...chn=ps&lpid=82
    Last edited by DER E30; 01-26-2016, 03:17 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • laextreme5
    replied
    Originally posted by LCG View Post
    You don't see people saying "I know how to do this" anymore.

    You just hear " I watched a youtube video on how to do this".

    So eliminate the triangle of someone watching youtube telling you their experience and just watch youtube yourself .

    Hey hey im being humble. Besides, i think i just came across a better idea. Coworker of mine suggested getting a 3d printer, drawing it up in software and letting the printer do all the hardwork of making each and every one perfectly repeatable and symetric. I like that idea much better. Instead of the old school method, i get suggested the newest trend in making something from scratch. Find it kinda hilarious.

    So with that being said, any recommendations for a sub $1000 3d printer?
    I looked at the robo 3d printer and the rigidbot 2, and liked those. Anyone have any experience with either or a better recommendation?

    Leave a comment:


  • LCG
    replied
    You don't see people saying "I know how to do this" anymore.

    You just hear " I watched a youtube video on how to do this".

    So eliminate the triangle of someone watching youtube telling you their experience and just watch youtube yourself .

    Leave a comment:


  • laextreme5
    replied
    Any of yall have any experience on casting aluminum? Like making a mold and all? Will be making my own itb setup for the 240 and thinking casting aluminum runners for each itb will be the best way to have each runner as close to each other spec wise as possible.

    Leave a comment:


  • laextreme5
    replied
    Got a bit more work done the other night. Borrowed my dads plasma cutter (thing is AWESOME) to start cutting some sheet for the motor mounts. At this point for the mounts thats about all i can do for now until i pick up a welder and a drill press, which should be soon.
    untitled (2 of 9) by lawrx, on Flickr

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    Also was able to mount the trans, torque tube and motor all up as one. This allowed me to see about where the diff will sit in relation to how far back the motor will sit. I ran into a bit of a clearance issue, probably have about another inch back the diff could go before the motor sits where i want it. Just have to do some minor trimming on the rear subframe for some more clearance. I also have to grind off the stock corvette shift box mounts to allow the trans axle/ rear diff to be mounted higher as at this current point they are contacting the trans tunnel in the middle. So the rear diff will probably sit .5-.75" higher and 1-1.25" farther back than this. Should have plenty of ground clearance, cooling air space, and hopefully SOMEWHERE to run the exhaust...


    untitled (6 of 9) by lawrx, on Flickr

    untitled (7 of 9) by lawrx, on Flickr

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  • laextreme5
    replied
    Originally posted by Robitussin View Post
    So basically what you are telling us is that you are building the most badass 240sx ever?
    You said it not me

    Leave a comment:


  • Robitussin
    replied
    Originally posted by laextreme5 View Post
    Nah, wont e3ven need em. Goal weight is sub 2200 lbs. Current motor is just a 4.8 ill put heads cam and itbs on. Real motor is gunna take a bit to save for, but will be 700-750 whp NA. that power to weight ratio will be the equivilant to a 1000 hp corvette or 1350 hp gtr, and ill have more traction because of better weight distrobution. Cosidered procharger but that was the easy route, and added prolly 150-200 lbs
    So basically what you are telling us is that you are building the most badass 240sx ever?

    Leave a comment:

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