My S13 240 : Ls swap, Corvette trans,ITB's, Widebody, Stupid wide wheels,

[anti.engineered]

Absolutely terrific I love it, you're doing it all right and I love the low centre of gravity / GT40 style aero cooling system / electric power steering pump that can go anywhere. It's sounding like a set of corner scales would be a good thing to invest in now rather than later so you can have a guided idea of where to fit components.

You really went to town on those caster rod brackets. If you're looking for some insight on them, I actually cut 'n' shut mine with the front half of an S13 set in order to lengthen to the place of my new radiator support that I knocked up, housing the rad further up and making heaps of bay space. Details in my thread if you're interested.

[laextreme5]

Looks like things are coming along nicely, sucks about the wrx, but if it all works out in the end then why worry.

Yeah im not worried about it lol car has given me problems since i bought it. So only fitting it goes out this way.

Absolutely terrific I love it, you're doing it all right and I love the low centre of gravity / GT40 style aero cooling system / electric power steering pump that can go anywhere. It's sounding like a set of corner scales would be a good thing to invest in now rather than later so you can have a guided idea of where to fit components.

You really went to town on those caster rod brackets. If you're looking for some insight on them, I actually cut 'n' shut mine with the front half of an S13 set in order to lengthen to the place of my new radiator support that I knocked up, housing the rad further up and making heaps of bay space. Details in my thread if you're interested.

Funny you mention that, im actually saving for a set of corner balance scales right now. Going to be offering corner balancing and alignments to the car guys around me. Right now i do a bunch of lowered/modified car alignmnets after hours and the corner balance scales will help me bring in a whole new clientele and help fund the 240 haha

As for the caster rod brackets, they are just rough cut to allow enough so that i can make a jig mounted to where the front subframe bolts to. I will actually be hacking off the frame rails pretty much right past the last mount hole for the front subframe. So i will have to make my own new brackets right there. Just havent cut it completely off yet as i still need to order my welder so i can miake the jib first.
photo by lawrx, on Flickr

[anti.engineered]

That follows, figures as much

[JEllis1]

In for more

[dubs&boost]

that empty space in front of the motor is for twins

[laextreme5]

Nah, wont e3ven need em. Goal weight is sub 2200 lbs. Current motor is just a 4.8 ill put heads cam and itbs on. Real motor is gunna take a bit to save for, but will be 700-750 whp NA. that power to weight ratio will be the equivilant to a 1000 hp corvette or 1350 hp gtr, and ill have more traction because of better weight distrobution. Cosidered procharger but that was the easy route, and added prolly 150-200 lbs

[Robitussin]

Nah, wont e3ven need em. Goal weight is sub 2200 lbs. Current motor is just a 4.8 ill put heads cam and itbs on. Real motor is gunna take a bit to save for, but will be 700-750 whp NA. that power to weight ratio will be the equivilant to a 1000 hp corvette or 1350 hp gtr, and ill have more traction because of better weight distrobution. Cosidered procharger but that was the easy route, and added prolly 150-200 lbs

So basically what you are telling us is that you are building the most badass 240sx ever?

[laextreme5]

So basically what you are telling us is that you are building the most badass 240sx ever?

You said it not me

[laextreme5]

Got a bit more work done the other night. Borrowed my dads plasma cutter (thing is AWESOME) to start cutting some sheet for the motor mounts. At this point for the mounts thats about all i can do for now until i pick up a welder and a drill press, which should be soon.
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Also was able to mount the trans, torque tube and motor all up as one. This allowed me to see about where the diff will sit in relation to how far back the motor will sit. I ran into a bit of a clearance issue, probably have about another inch back the diff could go before the motor sits where i want it. Just have to do some minor trimming on the rear subframe for some more clearance. I also have to grind off the stock corvette shift box mounts to allow the trans axle/ rear diff to be mounted higher as at this current point they are contacting the trans tunnel in the middle. So the rear diff will probably sit .5-.75" higher and 1-1.25" farther back than this. Should have plenty of ground clearance, cooling air space, and hopefully SOMEWHERE to run the exhaust...


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[laextreme5]

Any of yall have any experience on casting aluminum? Like making a mold and all? Will be making my own itb setup for the 240 and thinking casting aluminum runners for each itb will be the best way to have each runner as close to each other spec wise as possible.

[LCG]

You don't see people saying "I know how to do this" anymore.

You just hear " I watched a youtube video on how to do this".

So eliminate the triangle of someone watching youtube telling you their experience and just watch youtube yourself .

[laextreme5]

You don't see people saying "I know how to do this" anymore.

You just hear " I watched a youtube video on how to do this".

So eliminate the triangle of someone watching youtube telling you their experience and just watch youtube yourself .

Hey hey im being humble. Besides, i think i just came across a better idea. Coworker of mine suggested getting a 3d printer, drawing it up in software and letting the printer do all the hardwork of making each and every one perfectly repeatable and symetric. I like that idea much better. Instead of the old school method, i get suggested the newest trend in making something from scratch. Find it kinda hilarious.

So with that being said, any recommendations for a sub $1000 3d printer?
I looked at the robo 3d printer and the rigidbot 2, and liked those. Anyone have any experience with either or a better recommendation?

[DER E30]

What about motorcycle ITBs? Like R1 or GSXR 1k? You could print an adaptor block/manifold and avoid machining the actual throttles themselves. I'd be worried about the precision you could get out of the throttle blade to housing clearance, most OEMs have stinking tight clearance. I can picture having different amounts of vac leaks depending on the cylinder could be a tuning nightmare.....

Only thing is I can't picture how big they'd need to be for an LS, Bikes might be still to small.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...-ITB-directory
Looks like Busa throttles are 46mm and gixer 1k are 42mm, 600 throttles like 36-38mm

Another nice part about bike throttles is they typically have integrated injectors and fuel rails with them. One less headache to worry about.

Pretty cheap also,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/1305561...chn=ps&lpid=82

[laextreme5]

What about motorcycle ITBs? Like R1 or GSXR 1k? You could print an adaptor block/manifold and avoid machining the actual throttles themselves. I'd be worried about the precision you could get out of the throttle blade to housing clearance, most OEMs have stinking tight clearance. I can picture having different amounts of vac leaks depending on the cylinder could be a tuning nightmare.....

Only thing is I can't picture how big they'd need to be for an LS, Bikes might be still to small.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...-ITB-directory
Looks like Busa throttles are 46mm and gixer 1k are 42mm, 600 throttles like 36-38mm

Another nice part about bike throttles is they typically have integrated injectors and fuel rails with them. One less headache to worry about.

Sorry, should have been more clear. I want the printer or casting method to make the intake runners, to make the transition from the cathedral port on the head to the round port on the itb.

Ill be using Ducatti 999r Throtte bodies. They were only 2 cylinders but were large 2 cylinders, so they had large throttle bodies, 52mm. So thats not the issue. Its going from this shape,

http://www.lsenginediy.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/140.jpg

to this shape on the itb (the left side of photo)

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t62/micro-image/prep/tb-oemtbMedium.jpg

[laextreme5]

Got home from a weekend getaway down in New Orleans, think i almost went broke on food, and id been perfectly happy if i had.

Ok, so enough about the food. Started cutting up the front subframe to allow the motor to sit a bit lower. Before i could measure for notching the subframe, i had to remove the factory corvette shifter mounts. They were hitting the trans tunnel and not allowing me to get the trans setup to sit where i wanted it to. I also removed the front suspension as it was getting in the way with measuring and what not.
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With everything out of the way i cut off the flange that jutted out from the subframe that the steering rack mounted it. I decided to not use the standard mounting brackets and ordered a set of Villains drift solid mounts, which are weld on replacements. This allows me to have free reign of where I'm going to mount the rack. The rack will be moved forward, forward, and to the lt side compared to factory location.

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With the subframe notched i was able to see how low i could get the motor and how the rear diff would sit, after some more minor trimming of the rear subframe. If i had to guess id say the motor is proly sitting close to 2'' lower than a typical ls swapped s13.


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Bad news with motor sitting so low i ran in a bit of a problem. The bell housing is sitting an 1" below the framerails. To remedy this i need to get a flywheel and see how low it sits in comparison to the bell housing so i can see how much i can chop off of it. Also thew in my make shift strut brace to see how much room i had gained. Should have plenty of clearance to build the its now.

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Also threw up a piece of piping to check exhaust clearance, driver side, GREAT, passenger side, not so much, some clearancing will be required for sure.

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With the motor sitting about where i wanted it to, i realized this thing is going to look like it will be sitting on the ground once its at ride height.

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