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Sketchy E36 M3
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after the balljoint snapping, i got different lca's. you can see where my wheel has been digging into the control arm of quite some time now. so i went with 2" extended e36 arms so the wheels now clear. i never took photos of them, but ill add one in this post later. i also got new condor fcab's as well. i think after i did the front arms, i pretty much overhauled the suspension. I've been wanting to go true rear for a while now. I've had the rear nerptech arms for a while sitting in a closet, i just needed coils. i opted for the "Jorge Special" from Silvers. this option isn't on their site, but the bodies are shorter than the extreme low option and come with 5" swifts. as for reinforcements, my friend works at a fab shop and tied both towers together, and also to the floor. i think it'll be good enough, only time will tell. i got the coils and rear arms on. i think I'm still trying to figure exactly how i want them, but holy shit does it make a world of difference. after years of the spring arm hitting the frame, having actual working rear suspension feels wild. heres some photos.
i asked to just try normal springs, but they wee still a little tall for how i wanted it. the rear now has 10k swifts.
got the fitment dialed in. i know I'm forgetting stuff. ill do some digging to try and patch stuff upLast edited by bdesmarteauej205; 05-12-2020, 12:13 AM.
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onto the front fenders. obviously the passenger side is fucked. when it was on the trailer, i beat it out and got it a lot straighter than i thought it would get. still looks like hammered dog shit, but its good enough to where i don't really care to get a new one at the moment. i was able to get some front overs local from a buddy for cheap.
i filled the side marker holes and primed them. I've never painted pig pieces before and tried to make them look good, so i thought id give it a rip with the overs. i ordered some 303/9 paint off eBay. this stuff matches perfectly. i know its the same code, but considering it came out a can, i wasn't sure what to expect. for clear coat, i used spraymax 2k clear. if you need to rattle can clear coat, i think thats the best you could get. i can't believe how well it looks. so just buy that stuff. i pulled the cars out of the garage and laid some fender covers down. it was like 30 degrees and raining when i did this, so the conditions were less than ideal. i think i did like 2-3 light coats of base, and even more in clear. i don't know if it was due to the temp/ moisture, but they came out a bit on the orange peely side. i let them sit for a couple days, and then started wet sanding.
having never wet sanded fresh paint before, i was pretty sure id fuck it up at some point. i think its one of those things that feels so wrong when you start doing it lol. i went 1000, 1500, 2000, then compound. i was really scared of sanding through the clear. so i didn't sand as far down as i probably should have, but oh well. after all the steps, i started buffing. it was looking pretty good considering how i did it, and then i inevitably fucked up and buffed through the clear. so long story short i went easy with the buffer on the other one, and salvaged the one i messed up. these overs wit perfectly with the new lengthened arms. i didn't even have to adjust ride height or anything. so that worked out nicely. these photos are screenshots of a video, so it doesn't show the paint that well, but you get the idea. i also did my hood latches, because non paint matched hood latches suck.
while i had the sand paper out, i figured id do the roof. i never ended up taking it back. like with the fenders, i probably should have sanded further, but i knew if i sanded to far, it'd be impossible to fix that. i used the same grits and everything. you can still see some of the waves and what not from the lace, but the paint felt like glass afterwards. its still not perfect by any means, but its better.
during
i think this was during compound? before polish and wax
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well i think thats about up to date. i scored some black coupe door cards local, so thats super cool, for me at least. went drifting the other week, started getting a wild clunck noise, and it kinda feels like the drive shaft is gonna explode. also my upper trailing arm balljoints are shot, as were my axles. i got used oem axles from a partout car, new balljoints, partsshopmax carrier bearing, and the chase bays power steering kit. i think those will be in next week. ill have another update after all that stuff is on.
so in the meantime, heres a dump of random photos that i don't think are on here
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small update. i there on the chase bays p/s kit and pbm carrier bearing. my stock carrier bearing tore all the way around the rubber, so this made a huge difference. the car feels much more solid, but i can for sure feel more vibrations. thats to be expected with a solid bearing or 1 piece driveshaft though.
the chase bays kit was pretty straight forward. for some reason, it was a total bitch to get all of the air out of the steering system. there was a leak from one of the fittings which you can see in the photo( i snugged it up and haven't had any leaks since), but maybe that was part of the bleeding issue? i should have double checked the fittings to be safe, but didn't even think about it at the time. everything in the kit fit really well and is super good quality. I'm glad to have it on the car.
i also went back to a 35 series tire up front, and lowered the front about 1/4" in top of that. I'm finally happy with the height/look of the car. its not super low so i can still take it most places, but it doesnt have the reverse rake that made me **** how the car sat.
did a little garage sitter at my friends while unemployed. hopefully things go back to normal and i can drive an event to actually see how all this new stuff does.
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small update
went drifting again. no spectators or media allowed at washington state events still due to cover, so i don't have any cool photos, but the day went pretty well. I'm starting to get used to the car again will all the changes.
pissing down rain per usual
then about halfway down i absolutely SMOKED a dead deer on I5. somehow it didn't mess up the car, which is surprising considering i hit the torso. then my car just had chunks of deer flying out from underneath. luckily it didn't smell too bad.
then i proceeded to run over and destroy my valence, so hitting the deer was kinda irrelevant.
got a new one. this time i cut part of the center out to try to get more airflow through it. my car ran so much cooler with the bumper off, so hopefully this helps a little.
i scored a 330mm nardi off of marketplace for 120 bucks. been wanting one for a while and this was a stupid good deal. pardon the dirty interior haha.
thats it for this one. pretty uneventful. hoping to get back out to SPR at the end of july, and planning on driving PARC for the first time in august. we'll see how things go
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So i did a really spur of the moment event yesterday. Ive never done an open event at evergreen, mainly due to the stories of long lines, wack cars, and lots of crashes. my friend recently put his car back together and was signed up to drive, so i decided to drive as well to try it out, and we also haven't driven together in like 2 years.
all i did for prep was put the toe plates on the front wheels to make sure the wheels were kind of pointing in the same direction. i toed the front in a little to bring it closer to zero and called it good. got to the track, waited in line for a bit, checked in and unladed the car, did tech, all that stuff.
the layout changes throughout the day, and I've never really driven a bank before, and my gearing probably wasn't the best, so the morning session was pretty bad, but i tried to just use that time to figure out what i needed to do for the later sessions.
it was pretty cool coming out of the bank in third and being able to have a lot of angle going into transitioning, the car feels so good now after getting used to the suspension changes. its nice that this thing actually squats now while in drift. the vssd's fit this thing perfectly and i couldn't be happier with the fitment
and like i said, this was the first time getting to drive with my homie in a while, so we got a good amount of laps in together
then about 3/4 way through the day i noticed that my clutch pedal was getting kind of soft, i was hearing an abnormalish TOB noise that went away when the clutch pedal was pressed, and the car wasn't really wanting to go into gear very well. when the car is in gear with the clutch pushed in, the car still rolls.. so i called it quits there. I'm not sure whats wrong yet, but I'm just hoping its not related to the pressure plate since i put this clutch in last year i think. i guess ill see later. thats all i have for now, so heres a couple more photos.
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well i pulled the trans and found that half of the pressure plate fingers sit at a different level than the other half, almost like they're separating from the plate. so i ordered a southbend clutch. should be here this week or next week hopefully.
i also got some ganadors from a homie, not an absolute perfect fit, but its good enough for me, just need to paint them
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well i threw on a nice little layer of orange peel on the gandadors, they'll work for now. i didn't know that the mirrors can actually be disassembled, which would have made painting them much easier
so 3 years ago, i had a full set of model 5's. this is a wheel that i have always loved, but the rears i had at the time weren't the specs i truly wanted. well i had an opportunity to pick up a pair of the 17x9 +22 for the front, and the a pair of 18x10 +19 for the rear that i always wanted years ago from a friend, and the rears are chrome. the only way id be happier is if the fronts were chrome too, but i may get that taken care of down the road.
i also got the pair of stock side skirts for the car from kansas, so i threw them on as well.
very very long story short, while i was installing the southbound clutch, i realized that some of the pressure plate bolts had started to back out, which was probably the source of the shifting problems. so instead of re loctiting and re torquing them, i put the new clutch in, only for the problem to still be there. so after having the trans out 4 times, new master cylinder, pivot pin, 2 slave cylinders, a new transmission, and a shit ton of brake fluid, i replaced the clutch fork and installed the old clutch disc with the new pressure plate and the problem went away. so it was either the new disc was not working with the flywheel, or the fork was just worn enough to where it wouldn't fully disengage, fuck me running
i ordered a bimmerworld y pipe to start with re doing my exhaust and hopefully get it a little more tucked up. ill mess with that after i feel like actually messing with the car. pretty over it right now.
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