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Saving a 1993 FD...400+whp, widebody, shaved bay, etc
Unfortunately updating the build thread just takes a lot of time nowadays that I could be using elsewhere, so it has been put off for a while now. I mainly update via Facebook, Instagram, and Youtube since those avenues are a bit quicker for me. So, if you would like to stay current on the car, feel free to follow one or all of my pages to keep up to date. I would like to get my build threads completely caught up, but I don't see it happening at the moment :/
One word of recommendation though, solder does not belong in a car. Proper crimp and splice connections will out live and out perform solder in a vehicle. Use proper adhesive lined heat shrink butt crimps with a good crimping tool. Always give the wires the tug test before shrinking down the connectors. If it fails the tug test, then the connection must be redone. A proper crimp is stronger than the wire its self.
Only place solder should be used is in PCB boards. Wires should be crimp only.
The rigidity of a solder connection can fail and crack due to vibrations and heat cycles.
awesome build!! +1 on the crimping, soldering tends to leave cold joints on each end which makes the wire brittle and prone to cracking/ breaking. Parellel or butt splices are cheap and look clean when covered with some adhesive lined heatshrink. Keep up the good work!
One word of recommendation though, solder does not belong in a car. Proper crimp and splice connections will out live and out perform solder in a vehicle. Use proper adhesive lined heat shrink butt crimps with a good crimping tool. Always give the wires the tug test before shrinking down the connectors. If it fails the tug test, then the connection must be redone. A proper crimp is stronger than the wire its self.
Only place solder should be used is in PCB boards. Wires should be crimp only.
The rigidity of a solder connection can fail and crack due to vibrations and heat cycles.
That's just my .02 for the morning!
That's interesting, everything I read pointed to soldering being better. Do you have a link to quality connectors? Do they make Deutsch wire crimps? (Not connectors, just wire crimps)
awesome build!! +1 on the crimping, soldering tends to leave cold joints on each end which makes the wire brittle and prone to cracking/ breaking. Parellel or butt splices are cheap and look clean when covered with some adhesive lined heatshrink. Keep up the good work!
That's interesting, everything I read pointed to soldering being better. Do you have a link to quality connectors? Do they make Deutsch wire crimps? (Not connectors, just wire crimps)
Yes, i used the parellel splices exclusively and then covered with raychem SCL but any adhesive lined heatshrink should do. I have been using my metripack T11 crimper as it has an indent style splice crimp on it. I always tug hard on the splice to confirm it is complete. The correct method is to determine the CMA of the splice (think of it as the effective total wire gauge of all wires being spliced) and then select the appropriate size splice but i ordered multiples of each and used what fit snugly before being crimped. For example, for 3-4 18ga wires i would probably use a 16-14 splice http://https://racespeconline.com/co...ns/all/splices
Here is an example from my engine harness, 12V splice
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