Tweet
For awhile I was trying to mix this in with my Impala SS build thread, but it got big enough that I decided to make it's own. So below I present to you, my "SLOW EG".
I purchased this car back in 2013. It had a d15b7 motor that was junk, and eventually came out and was replaced with a d16y8 motor that has been built from the bottom end and up for a boosted application. The d16 motor has a calculated 8.52:1 CR due to the thicker d15b8 head gasket being utilized with the specific rods and piston heads listed. The body needs a ton of TLC in order to make it worth taking to anything but a local cruise in. The interior was trashed and is getting completely torn down and redone. The good news? NO RUST ON REAR QUARTER PANELS! It’s getting harder and harder to find a civic hatchback without it. This car is currently under constant update and being modded to better perform its intended function. Be a show quality "race car". When I say racecar I mean something I can take to different time attack events around my area, as well as SCCA events and the occasional 1/4 mile grudge night. It has to be an all around vehicle. I am more than willing to hear any suggestions or advice, because I know I'm not the first to attempt this.
This picture is my inspiration for this build:
These are the modifications so far (under constant update):
-D16Y8 Motor (from 2000 Civic EX)
-FJR Spec I Beam Rods w/ 75mm Vitara Piston Heads
-D16Y8 Head (Milled, Valves, Seals, 3 Angle Valve Job)
-Brian Crower D16 Valve Springs, Titanium Retainers
-New OEM Crank Bearings, OEM Rod Bearings, OEM Crank/Cam Seals
-Total Seal Maxseal Xtreme Piston Rings
-ARP Head Studs
-ARP Piston Rod Bolts
-new Timing Belt/Water Pump/Tensioner Pulley
-NGK R Plugs, NGK wires
-D16Y8 Distributor
-RYWire OBDII to OBDI Conversion Harness
-D16Z6 Engine Wiring Harness
-XTD Stage 4 Clutch (6 puck) & 8lb Flywheel
-T04E Turbocharger (Comp Trim 55, Turbine Trim 73)
-Aluminum Intercooler (2.5” piping, all T-bolt Clamps)
-Hondata 4 Bar MAP Sensor
-HKS replica BOV
-Cast Iron Turbo Manifold
-2.5” Stainless Steel Downpipe
-2.5” RSType Test Pipe
-2.5” EMUSA Cat Back Exhaust
-Precision 39mm External Wastegate
-Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
-RC 750cc Injectors
-P28 ECU w/ Hondata S300
-OEM EX Civic Gauge Cluster
-Boost Gauge
-Volt Meter Gauge
-Megan Racing Short Throw Shifter
-Password JDM Weighted Shift Knob
-ARP Wheel Studs w/ 10mm Wheel Spacers (rear)
-Ground Control Coilover Sleeves
-Euro Style Clear Headlights
-Megan Racing rear camber adjusters
-Powder coated Gloss Black valve cover
-JDM Style Red/White Tails
-Spoon Style Side View Mirrors
-Honda Splash Guards
-Blacked out front/rear Honda emblems
-NRG Replica seats
-Upper Front Strut Tower Brace
-Password JDM Front bumper quick release kit
Not Installed.. but getting ready to.
-Hondata 4 Port Electronic Boost Controller
-AEM Wideband
-Drilled & Slotted Rotors (front)
-Integra rear disc brake swap (includes lines)
-12K HID Kit (35 watt)
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Picture from when I first drove it down the road:
Got it home and washed it off:
Why did I swap motors? D15B8 was junk. Had holes in the valves, 4 blown piston rings, cracked exhaust manifold, ect. It was bad and after rebuilding the head and driving it for awhile it was time for a change.
Got some parts and lowered it down to try and get in the stance game. Although it was a weak attempt, I got hooked pretty quick. Too little tire and too much rear camber FOR ME. But I still liked the way it looked. Just not the way it drove.
So I got to work on the d16y8 motor when my SS went down (snapped a driveshaft u-joint at 110mph). Had the pistons hung and all the machining and building done by a local machine shop and then did the assembly at home.
Took it to my buddy's shop where the car had sat for almost a year, and got the motor put in
So for the first time in a year, the car was outside! Pulling it on the trailer to take home.. Time to trouble shoot and get it running properly. Up to this point the car has fired, but barely ran. Huge leak out of the downpipe and smoking like crazy.
Got it home.. pulled the car inside and started tearing the motor apart to try and find the source of the leak. This is what i found.
First thought.. bad head gasket? Replaced it and got the motor back together In about two hours.
TIME FOR ROUND 2!!
Unfortunately this time the car refused to start. I'm thinking WTF. Pulled the plugs and realized it had coolant dumped into the head again.
At this point I should give you a little more back story on this motor. It has had a TON of work. All machining, bearing, seal, and ring installs were done by a reputable local speed shop. Assembly was done by myself. Install was done by myself EXCEPT one part. Vacuum lines. And behold! There was a vacuum line attached directly to a coolant passage.
Just goes to show you need to always check things yourself.
after much adversity... it's finally moving under its own power! Piston rings need settled, clutch needs broken in, and the car needs tuned asap. But other than those items and an exhaust this thing is ready to be road worthy.
Got the car on the road finally and broke in the rings. I keep chasing random leaks and getting the rest of the motor setup properly so that it’ll be ready for a tune when I have time to take it to my buddy’s dyno. But the good news is I got it all washed and waxed for the first time in over a year... and took it to a local cruise in.
Here’s a video of me leaving the cruise. Can't wait to get something on the exhaust besides an open downpipe.
I purchased this car back in 2013. It had a d15b7 motor that was junk, and eventually came out and was replaced with a d16y8 motor that has been built from the bottom end and up for a boosted application. The d16 motor has a calculated 8.52:1 CR due to the thicker d15b8 head gasket being utilized with the specific rods and piston heads listed. The body needs a ton of TLC in order to make it worth taking to anything but a local cruise in. The interior was trashed and is getting completely torn down and redone. The good news? NO RUST ON REAR QUARTER PANELS! It’s getting harder and harder to find a civic hatchback without it. This car is currently under constant update and being modded to better perform its intended function. Be a show quality "race car". When I say racecar I mean something I can take to different time attack events around my area, as well as SCCA events and the occasional 1/4 mile grudge night. It has to be an all around vehicle. I am more than willing to hear any suggestions or advice, because I know I'm not the first to attempt this.
This picture is my inspiration for this build:
These are the modifications so far (under constant update):
-D16Y8 Motor (from 2000 Civic EX)
-FJR Spec I Beam Rods w/ 75mm Vitara Piston Heads
-D16Y8 Head (Milled, Valves, Seals, 3 Angle Valve Job)
-Brian Crower D16 Valve Springs, Titanium Retainers
-New OEM Crank Bearings, OEM Rod Bearings, OEM Crank/Cam Seals
-Total Seal Maxseal Xtreme Piston Rings
-ARP Head Studs
-ARP Piston Rod Bolts
-new Timing Belt/Water Pump/Tensioner Pulley
-NGK R Plugs, NGK wires
-D16Y8 Distributor
-RYWire OBDII to OBDI Conversion Harness
-D16Z6 Engine Wiring Harness
-XTD Stage 4 Clutch (6 puck) & 8lb Flywheel
-T04E Turbocharger (Comp Trim 55, Turbine Trim 73)
-Aluminum Intercooler (2.5” piping, all T-bolt Clamps)
-Hondata 4 Bar MAP Sensor
-HKS replica BOV
-Cast Iron Turbo Manifold
-2.5” Stainless Steel Downpipe
-2.5” RSType Test Pipe
-2.5” EMUSA Cat Back Exhaust
-Precision 39mm External Wastegate
-Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
-RC 750cc Injectors
-P28 ECU w/ Hondata S300
-OEM EX Civic Gauge Cluster
-Boost Gauge
-Volt Meter Gauge
-Megan Racing Short Throw Shifter
-Password JDM Weighted Shift Knob
-ARP Wheel Studs w/ 10mm Wheel Spacers (rear)
-Ground Control Coilover Sleeves
-Euro Style Clear Headlights
-Megan Racing rear camber adjusters
-Powder coated Gloss Black valve cover
-JDM Style Red/White Tails
-Spoon Style Side View Mirrors
-Honda Splash Guards
-Blacked out front/rear Honda emblems
-NRG Replica seats
-Upper Front Strut Tower Brace
-Password JDM Front bumper quick release kit
Not Installed.. but getting ready to.
-Hondata 4 Port Electronic Boost Controller
-AEM Wideband
-Drilled & Slotted Rotors (front)
-Integra rear disc brake swap (includes lines)
-12K HID Kit (35 watt)
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Picture from when I first drove it down the road:
Got it home and washed it off:
Why did I swap motors? D15B8 was junk. Had holes in the valves, 4 blown piston rings, cracked exhaust manifold, ect. It was bad and after rebuilding the head and driving it for awhile it was time for a change.
Got some parts and lowered it down to try and get in the stance game. Although it was a weak attempt, I got hooked pretty quick. Too little tire and too much rear camber FOR ME. But I still liked the way it looked. Just not the way it drove.
So I got to work on the d16y8 motor when my SS went down (snapped a driveshaft u-joint at 110mph). Had the pistons hung and all the machining and building done by a local machine shop and then did the assembly at home.
Took it to my buddy's shop where the car had sat for almost a year, and got the motor put in
So for the first time in a year, the car was outside! Pulling it on the trailer to take home.. Time to trouble shoot and get it running properly. Up to this point the car has fired, but barely ran. Huge leak out of the downpipe and smoking like crazy.
Got it home.. pulled the car inside and started tearing the motor apart to try and find the source of the leak. This is what i found.
First thought.. bad head gasket? Replaced it and got the motor back together In about two hours.
TIME FOR ROUND 2!!
Unfortunately this time the car refused to start. I'm thinking WTF. Pulled the plugs and realized it had coolant dumped into the head again.
At this point I should give you a little more back story on this motor. It has had a TON of work. All machining, bearing, seal, and ring installs were done by a reputable local speed shop. Assembly was done by myself. Install was done by myself EXCEPT one part. Vacuum lines. And behold! There was a vacuum line attached directly to a coolant passage.
Just goes to show you need to always check things yourself.
after much adversity... it's finally moving under its own power! Piston rings need settled, clutch needs broken in, and the car needs tuned asap. But other than those items and an exhaust this thing is ready to be road worthy.
Got the car on the road finally and broke in the rings. I keep chasing random leaks and getting the rest of the motor setup properly so that it’ll be ready for a tune when I have time to take it to my buddy’s dyno. But the good news is I got it all washed and waxed for the first time in over a year... and took it to a local cruise in.
Here’s a video of me leaving the cruise. Can't wait to get something on the exhaust besides an open downpipe.
Comment