Mild 86 MX72 Cressida Build

[MR2_FTW]

Got the car up on the lift and finally got measurements for the rear arms.



Upper (short) arm length bolt-to-bolt: 9 3/4"
Lower (longer) arm length bolt-to-bolt: 19"
All 4 bolts are the same dimensions
Bolt diameter: 13.9 mm
Bolt sleeve width: 49.6 mm
Bolt sleeve outer diameter: 19.9 mm
Bolt sleeve inner diameter: 14 mm

I'm emailing the specs to Gabe at Techno Toy Tuning as we speak, so we'll see if they have stuff on the shelf that will fit, or if they have to make it custom.

[MR2_FTW]

I guess the mounting point for the panhard rod is slightly different between the two axles as well, as the axle was pulled way over to the right. I put it up on the lift and adjusted it back center (hooray for T3 adjustability!)



Also it looks like the panhard rod may now be slightly tapping the exhaust on hard bumps. Though it seems like it may be better now that the axle is centered.



In this (terrible) picture you can (kinda) see the weird angle the upper arms are at.



Also along with the clunking from the wearing urethane, the axle has some play in it that you can feel under accel/decel transitions where it wants to push the car one way or the other. Looks like I need to start saving for some T3 adjustable heim joint arms.

[MR2_FTW]

Alright, big update, but no pictures at the moment - I was too busy to take any. The Supra axle is in. It bolted up (more or less) just fine. A few notes:
1. The top arm mounting points on the Supra axle are about 2.5 inches farther apart than on the stock MX72 axle. This puts the arms at a bit of a weird spread angle. Not a huge deal, but worth noting. They still bolt in ok.
2. Running AE86 brakes with Celica-Supra e-brake cables looks like it might be possible, but I don't have the proper brackets right now. I'm sure I could figure something out eventually, but right now I have no handbrake.
3. The god-awful clunking has been reduced by around 75%. The old diff had a crap ton of play, this one doesn't. However, there is still some clunking. This is probably due to the bolt sleeves in my urethane bushings starting to wallow out in the fore-aft direction, possibly allowing a little play. This is "easily" fixed with some adjustable heim arms from TechnoToyTuning, but those are quite expensive and will have to wait.
4. The gearing, while a little shorter, isn't smack-you-in-the-face noticeable, at least not in the 20 min I drove around near my house.
5. I did some figure 8's to help the diff break in, and this thing locks REALLY nicely. I can spin both wheels now (though the 5M still doesn't have enough power to really get it to slide much)! I can't wait to drive it in the rain. BWAHAHA
6. The brakes probably need to be bled again. The pedal feels super spongy.
7. Even for how stiff it is, the front still has enough roll to drag the mud flaps around turns. A front sway bar is needed.

All in all I'm pretty happy with it so far. It's been an exceedingly expensive project but I think it will make the car that much more awesome. Anyway, just because I can, here's the updated build sheet for the car

Engine
5M-GE 2.8L straight 6
Rabid Chimp ceramic-coated mandrel-bent intake
K&N cone filter
ARP head studs
All new gaskets/seals
EGR & AC delete
Volvo electric fan conversion
AE86 oil cooler w/Mocal t-stat sandwich plate

Drivetrain
W58 5-speed transmission from MA70 Supra w/new seals
AE86 clutch pedal
MA60 master cylinder
MA70 slave cylinder
Custom 1-piece driveshaft
Stainless clutch line
MA40 Celica-Supra rear axle w/new seals and bearings
Rebuilt MA60 Celica-Supra P-type LSD w/Weir Performance MaxGrip and solid pinion spacer kits
AE86 rear brakes

Suspension/Wheels
MA60 Celica-Supra P-Type wheels (14x7)
Front:
Shortened front strut housings
KYB AGX shock inserts (from SW20 MR2 rear)
T3 coilover conversion w/camber plates & RCA’s
Energy Suspension poly control arm bushings
New Moog ball joints
Rear:
Custom 400lb/in springs
KYB AGX shocks (from Camaro)
Axle limit straps
T3 adjustable panhard rod
Homemade polyurethane 4-link bushings

Misc
MA60 Celica-Supra front seats
RA20 Celica “5-Speed” badge
Grip Royal Clay Knight steering wheel w/modified AE86 hub

[MR2_FTW]

I went at the calipers SUPER carefully and drilled out the bleeders and chased the threads with a tap. One looks fine, but the other looks like I may have nicked the bottom seat where the valve seals a little bit. I'm gonna grab some new valves and see if they will work. Fingers crossed.

[MR2_FTW]

Calipers came in. First thing I checked was the bleeder valves. I soaked them in PB and hit them with some propane heat before I even attempted to remove them, and they still snapped like twigs.



I barely even put any force on it. So there goes $75. RockAuto doesn't carry both, and even if they did I'm not totally confident they'd be the right part. NAPA can't get them, and Advance remans are $130 each + core. I can get brand new ones for (if I remember right) $120 each. I'm beyond pissed right now.

[Ether]

Sweet wagon nice to see someone keeping this vehicle alive. Reminds me of my 87 maxima wagon it was sweet, very advance for a 87 wagon.

[MR2_FTW]

Got the steering wheel installed the other day. It is actually straight, the wheels are turned in the pic. And yes, I know the horn button is stupid, but it's the only one that will work with the wiring the way it is right now. I'll have to figure out a grounding solution to run the Grip Royal button.




I also primed and painted the axle. Hopefully the this will slow the rust a bit.





And here it is with the AE86 backing plates, axles, and 3rd member installed, as well as new brake hard and soft lines.



Now I'm just waiting (very impatiently) for a guy on facebook to respond back about shipping some AE86 calipers. I'd much rather get his than spend 3 times the cash for new ones.

[MR2_FTW]

Completed 3rd member!


Also a box of goodies was waiting for me on my front stoop when I got home


I also picked up some AE86 rear brake backing plates on Monday (thanks, Clayton!) and am still in talks with a guy about getting some AE86 calipers. I don't think they will fit with my Supra rotors, so I may end up having to sell those (can't return them since I painted the hats) or having someone lathe them down to the proper diameter, or just buying AE86 rotors like a sane person.

[MR2_FTW]

Today I dropped off the diff and 3rd member at the shop. The tech suggested that I come back tomorrow to pick up the third member housing after he removes the pinion and races so I can clean it up and paint it while he builds the diff. But this evening Mitchell came over and helped me wire wheel the ends of the axle shafts so I could paint them before the new bearings get pressed on tomorrow at work. Here's before:



And after:



I also hit the centers of the new rotors so those don't rust:



However tonight I did discover that the calipers I got are not right. Unfortunately I had to get one from Rock Auto and one from Amazon so I need to figure out how to return those. Also the pads that I got from NAPA seem to contain two pairs of differing friction material, so those will be going back tomorrow, and I'll probably end up having to order calipers from NAPA at way more expense. The holes in the caliper brackets are too far apart to mount up to the axle. They also don't use the right e-brake mechanism, so I believe these are standard Celica calipers. This could end up being a real wild goose chase. I think AE86 calipers/pads will work in a pinch (lol geddit?), but the MA40 brakes are bigger.

Also, I don't know if I made a note of it on this thread or not, but last week when I was doing some work under the car, I noticed that when I jacked one side of the car up, a TON of power steering fluid leaked out of the rack boot. So I got a reman rack assembly from NAPA for like $120, and ordered some poly rack bushings from Xcessive Manufacturing since they were the same price as new stock ones.

It's always something.....

[MR2_FTW]

7/30/14
Tonight I did the most redneck thing I think I've ever done while working on a car.

I was disassembling the axle tonight. I got one axle out no problem (well, with a pulley puller looped through the holes in the stub and a big hammer) but the other was mega-stuck and wouldn't come out. I ended up tying it to a tree with a ratchet strap, and attaching the stub of the axle to my tow hook with another. The straps couldn't pull it out, so I gave the car some gas and one of the straps snapped. BLARG. So then I went and got a chain, and used THAT to hold the axle to the tree, and attached the stub to the tow-hook on my Subaru with a car tow strap. I pulled once and it wouldn't budge. I pulled it again and the axle was suspended taught in the air, and then POP the axle came right out. Nothing broke, nobody died. I am a champion.


8/4/14
Heard back from the local 4WD Specialties shop about an estimate on the diff rebuild. I sent them the link with the super detailed rebuild step-by-step, they showed it to the guys in their shop and said they could do it for $400. The dude in AZ that wrote the how-to wanted $300, but I'd have to ship everything at over $60 each way.
Plus, if I keep it local and something ends up going wrong, it's easier to deal with potential issues with someone a mile away from work rather than in another time zone.

[MR2_FTW]

Picked up the axle! It's super gross looking, but it's there. One of the brake dust shields is pretty rotten, so that may end up getting deleted or something.


Here's the info plate from in the firewall. Axle code is F302 which is 7.5" open diff, 3.727 ratio.


The stock X72 Cressida axle is an E292 which is 7.1" open diff, 4.10 ratio

The MA60 diff I have is a 7.5" LSD with 4.30 ratio.

Now my dilemma is this: Do I use the 4.30 ratio ring and pinion from the MA60 Supra, or the 3.73 from the MA40 Supra? I'm leaning towards the 3.73. It would make the car accelerate slower, but would be way better for highway cruising. Plus if I ever go V8 or 7MGTE, the longer gearing would suit the power better.

Also, I ran the Mk1's VIN through the system at work, here's what I came up with.
1981 Celica-Supra liftback
Automatic 4 speed, sun roof, power package, cassette upgrade, production date 11/80, 5M-E engine

[MR2_FTW]

Passenger side Celica-Supra seat is in. Now they match!

[MR2_FTW]

Just found a MK1 Celica-Supra axle for sale in PA not too far from where I'm gonna be going anyway in July.
Called up the yard and she's all mine! And for about half the price of the going market rate!
Combine that with the LSD I'm picking up this weekend, add some new seals, bearings and brakes, and I'll have myself an LSD/disc brake rear end! BWAHAHAHAHA

[MR2_FTW]

Since my MR2 is down for an engine rebuild, this has become my daily driver. Being an old car it's starting to show some issues that are starting to pile up and really irritate me.

1. Front passenger window will go down, but not up.
2. Driver's rear window does nothing
3. Stereo tape player broke so no more ipod in the car
4. Rear speakers have never worked
5. Dome light doesn't come on when you open the door
6. Or the hatch
7. Rear window washer hose is broken somewhere in the rear pillar, causing massive internal leakage if you try to use it
8. Passenger door lock is insanely hard to move by hand and won't move with the key or power switch
9. Rear hatch lock won't turn
10. All window tracks need to be lubricated to speed up the slow ass rolling up/down
11. Speedometer cable broke AGAIN
12. Need to figure out how to get my fan to only work when the ignition is on so it doesn't potentially kill the battery
13. Rear end clunk still present. When the MR2 is back up, the diff will be coming back out and getting double shim stacked and/or welded to shut it the hell up
14. Headlights are still dim as well as being aimed way too low. The adjuster bolts are now comprised entirely of ferric oxide so I think to aim them higher will require shimming the brackets with washers

[raam0]

There's something about those wheels, idk what it is but they work so well in that type of cars. Awesome wagon, love it!