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Mitsu Mighty Max build
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When I notch it, I'm doing it the right way. Bolt in notches just dont look sturdy enough. Not worth the risk for 2-3" of extra clearance.Originally posted by GrantYoung View PostPlease don't go with a bolt in notch. I love me some well built minis, used to have a bagged/bodied toyota.
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Please don't go with a bolt in notch. I love me some well built minis, used to have a bagged/bodied toyota.
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Probably the exact same wheels you're running on your ranger. Just cant decide if I wanna run 8" wide all around or stagger the back with 10". I'll probably order 2 8" wheels and mock them up to see if iIwanna go wider than an 8". I know pretty much every stance truck is running them but I just love the look, plus I'm cheap.Originally posted by projecthoarder View PostIts coming along nicely, what are your plans for wheels?
(Thanks by the way)
Later plans will be drop spindles, definitely gonna need a notch, and then end goal is to bag it. Body mods will remain simple and ratty.
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Its coming along nicely, what are your plans for wheels?
(Thanks by the way)
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I had a few days off so I did some work on the truck.

Gap for days. So I did this:

But that didn't satisfy me enough. So I cut one more coil and ended up with this:



Pretty happy with it at the moment. Now it needs wheels.
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I thought about a bolt in notch, just not sure how I feel about it. I'll probably weld in a full notch when the time comes.Originally posted by projecthoarder View PostLooks like a solid project, cant wait to see it on the ground, that's the same ball joint separator I have, bought it 4 years ago and use it all the time. I think you may want to look into a bolt in C-notch.
By the way, I love your Ranger.
Besides a different grille and probably a few small things, they are the same truck.Originally posted by DeltaAlpha9 View PostAre these trucks the same thing as Dodge D50's? It looks shockingly similar to my dads old truck.
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Are these trucks the same thing as Dodge D50's? It looks shockingly similar to my dads old truck.
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Looks like a solid project, cant wait to see it on the ground, that's the same ball joint separator I have, bought it 4 years ago and use it all the time. I think you may want to look into a bolt in C-notch.
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Being a rented tool and the balljoints in good condition, I didnt wanna chance breaking either so I just stopped. Gonna try again with the new tool I got and a hammer.Originally posted by GoBig,G View PostThe puller uses a breaker bar right? if so have you tried a cheater pipe? or have you tried that already?
and you're gonna have a love **** relationship with cut springs; it's gonna look good but ride like shit... I should know the springs are cut on the back of my rodeo
I already am in a love **** relationship with the drop in the back. It has about 1.5" of frame/axle clearance so it already rides like poo.
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The puller uses a breaker bar right? if so have you tried a cheater pipe? or have you tried that already?Originally posted by dbales View Postthe small jaw puller I used would get tight but wouldnt budge the balljoint.
and you're gonna have a love **** relationship with cut springs; it's gonna look good but ride like shit... I should know the springs are cut on the back of my rodeo
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The bottom balljoints point up. The pickle fork the parts store rented didnt have a large enough opening to actually pry on it and the small jaw puller I used would get tight but wouldnt budge the balljoint.Originally posted by GoBig,G View PostHave you tried sitting the truck on stands then using the jack under the lower A-arm?... That's always worked for me. Although not really very safe
Or do your ball joints face up?
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