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  • Just want to say Thanks! This is the best thread i've read in a while!
    @davidcharloff

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    • I might aswell throw my penny in

      This is the weld strength test for my weld in roll cage in my mk2 escort
      Mk2 escort build thread
      http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=58575

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      • Before you go trusting those welds on something as critical as a cage, you might have a look at this discussion on the tack-tack-tack method: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gener...tack-tack.html

        It's a lengthy discussion, but the guys on Pirate know their shit about fabrication.
        Last edited by Oh Damn, it's Sam; 12-23-2014, 11:56 AM.



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        • Originally posted by Oh Damn, it's Sam View Post
          Before you go trusting those welds on something as critical as a cage, you might have a look at this discussion on the tack-tack-tack method: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gener...tack-tack.html

          It's a lengthy discussion, but the guys on Pirate know their shit about fabrication.
          Well i am a certificated welder and it passed the test with no problems
          Mk2 escort build thread
          http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=58575

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          • great thread. im welding for the first time smoothing the bay of my e30 using an old mig setup. few questions

            welds are getting better, but still very inconsistent. im welding thin (1mm) mild steel sheet to the inner legs and it seems a voltage setting of 1 isnt enough and it spats, but a voltage of 2 blows through the sheet very easily making it very difficult. any advice?

            also any ideas on how to clean the welds, grind them smooth in tight areas like inner arches where the two panels are at a 90 degree angle? like this



            ive tried rubbing it with the lip of a cutting disc on a 4" grinder but with little success.

            areas like this



            will be difficult because its all boxed in. i need it smooth enough to run some seam sealer over it and hide the weld.

            thanks

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            • Originally posted by Mikethepanel View Post
              Well i am a certificated welder and it passed the test with no problems


              You may be a certified welder. But that style of mig weld is not acceptable for roll cages. It may be strong, but it certainly will not pass any sort of tech.

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              • Some of the parts ive made..





                Project car: MB 190E M50 Turbo build
                Now: MB W211 320cdi
                Ex:MB 190E M50, BMW E39 530d

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                • Just wanted to say that I absolutely love the progress this thread has made and the people it has helped!

                  iamsilverfox - What sort of gas mix/pressure are you using? I think the problem may lie there...

                  Exami - Something looks wrong about your welds. Is that why you posted? I'm no professional TIGer so maybe Heist could offer more guidance.

                  Instagram: surpriseitsmicah

                  Builds:

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                  • Originally posted by M.Doban View Post
                    Just wanted to say that I absolutely love the progress this thread has made and the people it has helped!

                    iamsilverfox - What sort of gas mix/pressure are you using? I think the problem may lie there...

                    Exami - Something looks wrong about your welds. Is that why you posted? I'm no professional TIGer so maybe Heist could offer more guidance.
                    Just to see how would you guys rate the welds, good, bad, horrible, unacceptable?. if so what seems to be wrong, how to proceed? i have problem getting the seams to go straight and to "lay dimes" as us term goes.. (maybe my speed is off or too much amp cause seams are dark? wrong gas? im using 100% argon on tig welding.)
                    Last edited by Exami; 01-16-2015, 01:42 AM.
                    Project car: MB 190E M50 Turbo build
                    Now: MB W211 320cdi
                    Ex:MB 190E M50, BMW E39 530d

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                    • Should be getting a welder here soon, have not done any since high school, ill be a bit rusty, but it will be fun to do again. More pics should be on these pages!
                      Last edited by xcgnj; 01-26-2015, 02:21 AM.

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                      • couldn't get the fancy stainles steel rainbows, but love myself some lobster'd 3,5" bends!

                        btw i did not use backing gas, is that the reason why i got too much heat in the metal and didnt get the fancy rainbows?

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                        • Originally posted by Mikethepanel View Post
                          Well i am a certificated welder and it passed the test with no problems
                          If you're a certified welder, why the hell are you tacking pipes together?

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by Exami View Post
                            Just to see how would you guys rate the welds, good, bad, horrible, unacceptable?. if so what seems to be wrong, how to proceed? i have problem getting the seams to go straight and to "lay dimes" as us term goes.. (maybe my speed is off or too much amp cause seams are dark? wrong gas? im using 100% argon on tig welding.)
                            No expert but it looks like you're not getting a good shielding. What is your flow set to and how long do you post flow?


                            "Never argue with an idiot; they'll drag you down to their level and beat you with experience"

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                            • I wanted to ask you guys a questions. What machine would you recommend for me to start getting more practice on. Im by not means experienced but I really want to get better. With that being said I was looking at a millermatic 180 auto-set. Would us spending the extra 600 dollars for a miller diversion 180 be worth it? Again im buying this for my "at home shop". Really just something we can practice with and work our way into fabrication our own stuff.
                              Instagram : @SHMVNY_GVNG

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                              • Holy. I never saw this thread, even though it was stickied.

                                First off, I am a CWB certified level 2 welding inspector. I used to inspect both stainless and carbon steel welding with procedures done under PWP7 and PWP10 (Pressure vessels).

                                Now I inspect to a standard which is a lot higher than what is necessary for any exhaust system, but my goal isn't "pretty" welds, it is strong welds which will last a lifetime with slurry or corrosive materials flowing through them, or welds which will withstand lube oil systems which are under 100's of PSI.

                                One problem I see in here is that we only see picture of the outside of the weld, that only tells half the story, you can have a beautiful weld on the outside, and have absolutely zero root penetration. The other thing I see in a lot of the pictures is porosity, AKA pinholes, even on an exhaust porosity is your worst nightmare because it is what allows moisture and water to rust out welds.

                                Next up arc strikes, for heaven sakes you cannot imagine the changes which happen at the mollecular level when a piece of steel is struck. Arc strikes can actually change the metallurgy of a piece of steel, so much so that by code a piece of pipe which has an arc strike on it must be cut out and replaced. That's how seriously arc strikes are taken in welding. So watch it when you are waving that stinger around.

                                So next person to post up pictures of their welds, even if its just on thin wall shit, post a picture of the inside of the weld as well if possible. Without it we can really only judge how "pretty" your weld is, we cannot determine whatsoever if it is a proper weld however.

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