The Fabrication/Welding Thread

[M.Doban]

Just make sure you are holding the torch so that both sides are getting the same amount of heat and add rod in the center of the two puddles.
You will need to add rod quickly and keep it away from the torch so it doesn't melt before reaching the puddle.

That's pretty much all I can think of, unless your machine isn't set to AC.
To weld aluminum with DC you will need helium, which is crazy expensive.

I use an argon/helium mix at work for AC aluminum and it welds awesome.

Thanks! I should know your name by now. Maybe you've told me and I forget. That's most likely the case. Anyway, what's your name?

p.s. I've loved your avatar for years now and I'm just now telling you. I love your avatar. That movie...

I believe the welder is indeed set to AC but a double check can never hurt. My tank is 100% Argon. Is it still possible to weld aluminum with that?

[SheaMoose]

Okay. Another question.

I still can't get my aluminum to bond. I've tried the swirling motion, swirling while adding filler, making a puddle on one piece and bring the other in to touch the puddle, turning the amps down, turning the gas down (to not blow the puddle away), and messing with the balance and arc length. No matter what, one piece just blows away from the torch as the metal heats up and melts. Is it all in technique? Or am I still doing something wrong. I clean the metal with an aluminum-only wire brush and always keep my tungsten uncontaminated and ground to a sharp point with directional grains.

Butt welding, overlap welding, 45* joint, and 90* joint welds all with the same result. Thin or thick aluminum. 1/16 red tungsten on an inverter TIG.

Just make sure you are holding the torch so that both sides are getting the same amount of heat and add rod in the center of the two puddles.
You will need to add rod quickly and keep it away from the torch so it doesn't melt before reaching the puddle.

That's pretty much all I can think of, unless your machine isn't set to AC.
To weld aluminum with DC you will need helium, which is crazy expensive.

I use an argon/helium mix at work for AC aluminum and it welds awesome.

[vwgti16vt]

Here's a few pics of my latest C notch. It was on a mk4 gti. Pretty standard other then I tig everything now that i have my thermal arc 186.





















Notched and sitting perfect!

[M.Doban]

Okay. Another question.

I still can't get my aluminum to bond. I've tried the swirling motion, swirling while adding filler, making a puddle on one piece and bring the other in to touch the puddle, turning the amps down, turning the gas down (to not blow the puddle away), and messing with the balance and arc length. No matter what, one piece just blows away from the torch as the metal heats up and melts. Is it all in technique? Or am I still doing something wrong. I clean the metal with an aluminum-only wire brush and always keep my tungsten uncontaminated and ground to a sharp point with directional grains.

Butt welding, overlap welding, 45* joint, and 90* joint welds all with the same result. Thin or thick aluminum. 1/16 red tungsten on an inverter TIG.

[TMarty]

Thanks for the input!

I did a couple test beads on some similar gauge steel as the oil pan, and couldn't get it to stop burning through. Our machine at work is set up to work on heavier stuff, plus I know nothing about setting up a machine besides following the chart under the hood.

I am also looking for recommendations on a 110v gas MIG. Need something capable of doing bodywork/light fabricating mainly. Would rather spend money once than buy cheap stuff and not be happy. Would also like to start learning TIG, so a machine capable of that as well would be great.

I would just buy a miller tig machine then, they are expensive but hands down the best. You will be able to work on light metal for body work with no problem, and thicker stuff too.

[Zman86]

The Fabrication/Welding Thread

Thanks for the input!

I did a couple test beads on some similar gauge steel as the oil pan, and couldn't get it to stop burning through. Our machine at work is set up to work on heavier stuff, plus I know nothing about setting up a machine besides following the chart under the hood.

I am also looking for recommendations on a 110v gas MIG. Need something capable of doing bodywork/light fabricating mainly. Would rather spend money once than buy cheap stuff and not be happy. Would also like to start learning TIG, so a machine capable of that as well would be great.

[TMarty]

mig

When it comes to MIG with steel hard wire the way to go is one continuous bead with a feed back motion.
You should also push with hard wire no pull.
So you should be able to get the appearance of "stacking dimes" with one continuous bead by moving forward, quickly feed back to the puddle then move forward and when you feed back motion is almost the same completely through the weld you should have an ascetically pleasing weld as well as physically strong.
This is because as you move forward you get the penetration you want and the feed back motion leaves the finish you want.
Just really watch how the puddle is acting it will tell you everything.
Miller brand has come out with a PULSE MIG machine in the past couple years that makes this entire topic a mute point. It literally looks as if you TIG welded what you MIG welded when it is set up correct because it uses a alternating currently and as the name sounds it literally pulses the wire, we just got some in a work and they are a dream to weld with.
Also as for that oil pan above that is plenty thick material to run a bead on and not worry about burning through, just set the machine correctly and adjust the speed of your motions correctly.

Again just my two cents from my experiences from work.

Also a side note for those of you who are not sure if you weld looks the way it should and you have Instagram, follow the page @weldporn they post the best welds from some of the best welders around. Now if you are just starting out do not expect to have yours look exactly like what you see its more of a reference point and a good place to ask questions and get ideas.

[M.Doban]

I understood what you meant. Laying a continuous bead with the stacked dime appearance is the best method. The metal gets hot and soaks up the weld. If you do one tack at a time this does not happen thus less penetration. That's not to say one tack at a time is not strong. Do both methods on a piece you can flip over to examine the backside of the weld and you should see what I mean.

You also get more splatter with the tack method because you are constantly starting a new weld.




Very nice welds by the way!

[Zman86]

The Fabrication/Welding Thread

I meant laying a bead that has that look vs laying a straight bead. I'll stitch weld a tack at a time when the material I'm working with is too thin, like the oil pan I did for my car.



Continuous bead using a lower case e kind of movement.



Continuous bead using no movement



Just using my pics as reference. I've been working with the fabricator at work a lot, he sees no structural differences between doing a pretty looking bead vs a straight bead, but arguments online say differently. I realize I worded my last post so that it sounded like I was asking about stitch welding.

[M.Doban]

When I first got into MIG welding like 5 years ago, I did the dime stacking thing. It was too hard for me to get a bead to look pretty.

However, I am now able to make a bead look like a stack of dimes so I only use the tack-tack-tack method for thin stuff.

Nevertheless, the stuff I welded 5 years ago is still holding up today (particularly my front crossmember which has withstood 5 years of drag launches). The tacking method works, but you don't get the same penetration as a bead. It seems to be enough penetration though. That being said I prefer a bead.

[Zman86]

I've read conflicting arguments over this, but what are the professionals opinion on MIG welding and having it look like "a stack of dimes"? This is how I generally weld. Some people say it is weaker, others say it is just as strong as a continuous bead. Some people say it's a failure waiting to happen, while one guy I found who fabricates Baja racing truck suspension components has been using the technique for ten plus years and has had zero failures. I'm a big fan of leaving welds visible, show off that hard work and skill instead of grinding it all smooth, so I like my stuff to look good as well as being structurally sound. Opinions?

[M.Doban]

That's your first post? An insult in a thread that clearly says not to do so? Come on, man. Be nice. Go start in the Intro Thread.

[Throttle]

You guys need to consult with this expert: http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/sh...=polo+bodydrop

[sawtooth4x4]

That would actually be incorrect.

I've been welding for 14 years now. I've used Flux and MIG, Stick and Gas.

Flux burns hotter and gets better penetration then MIG.

MIG looks prettier. FLUX looks ugly if you can't figure it out.

MIG works great in nearly all types of welding, and will penetrate really well with a good machine.

FLUX can be used with shielding gas for some awesome welds. I've made some beautiful welds using shielding gas with FLUX.

Learn how to control your speed and watch your puddle. Get a good machine. Get a good Helmet. Metal prep. These are the keys to good welds.

http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/articles/Proper-welding-wire-selection/

Yeah, the problem is you dont get great penetration with flux, and they usually dont look that clean.

[M.Doban]

Great info as always, Shea! Thank you. Some of that stuff is going into the first post.


Good points, Heist. I'll keep those in mind.