Never ending quest of badassery

[mrkrinkle]

Uh.... What exactly did you do? Sucks about having to pull the motor out again man, really looking forward to seeing it all buttoned up!

I did nothing! Car was done. Ready to drive. Guy who put my trans back together did so improperly. Over extended the forks causing one to fall out of the cog, getting the car stuck in 1st and third. Only way to fix that is to split the trans back open. Was super bummed about it, but whatever. The motor is already back in and will be done (again) tomorrow. I'm hoping to drive it to a meet on Sunday.

[Earl]

Shaved sidewalls?

[philohlean]

Uh.... What exactly did you do? Sucks about having to pull the motor out again man, really looking forward to seeing it all buttoned up!

[mrkrinkle]

Had to pull the motor. Trans was fucked. Picking trans up tonight. Motor is going back in car tonight. Hooray.

This really, really, really sucked, but was the best option considering everything. Originally was just going to drop the trans out the bottom while hoisting the motor up, but all things considered it was much safer to just yank the entire motor.



While I was waiting for the trans I did this. Never. Again. I'll have black boogers for the remainder of the month..

[mrkrinkle]

Holy crap what a long weekend..

I got all the wiring done on Friday and Saturday, then spent Sunday buttoning everything up to get ready to fire it up! Had to finish routing and hooking up all the vacuum lines and then hook all coolant hoses up. I got a Mishimoto radiator for the car and from doing a bit of reading I knew that they leak at the quick connect hose ends VW has. A little ingenuity and help from a buddy solved that issue. All I did was put additional o-rings on the barbs. I had top re seal the temp sender at the radiator as well since it was leaking slightly once the system was pressurized with an Airlift tool. That thing is fucking awesome. Pulls a vacuum on the system so you can find leaks before filling with coolant.

After that I hooked up the intercooler and piping, did a final check on the important stuff, unhooked the injectors and cranked for a good minute to build oil pressure. Hooked everything up and she fired right up. Noticed a SMALL fuel leak at the return hardline I made, so I need to get some special 37* washer made specifically for -AN fittings. Imagine a crush washer coated in a special locktite. They're like $30 a piece too. Fuck. Anyways, should have a few of those in my possession by the end of the day. Hopefully I can heat cycle the damn thing after work today! I'm shooting to drive it to an annual local swap meet on Sunday! Hooray!

[FowlerE30]

Not really my style but I definately respect your build! Extremely clean, the work with the hard lines on the compressor tank are great.. and when I read that that was real 24k plating i had to double take.haha Nice car

[jazig.k]

Honestly surprised more people haven't asked that..

It's real 24K plating, done a couple different ways. All of the ARP hardware (which is stainless steel) has a reallllllly thin layer of nickel under the even thinner layer of gold. It's really damn resilient too. Almost impossible to scratch, doesn't react to heat that I've been able to tell too. I've torched one bolt and nothing happened.. I've even had to use an impact on one that seized in the trans (I used the wrong bolt, wasn't due to the plating) and it barey made a mark. Only problems I've encountered have been the ARP threads are a lot sharper (more accurate?) than the OEM VW stuff, so I've had to chase every thread of the OEM cast stuff before installing the hardware. Along with the stainless, most of the aluminum stuff is plated the same way and I have yet to run into issues with that stuff too. Greg (Swoops) said that he didn't have any issues with the plated -AN firtings going together and sealing aswell.

I was worried about the V-bands having issues due to the bending of them and whatnot when installing them, but I've had them on and off the car probably 10-15 times now and haven't had an issue, so that's nice.

However, there are some items (mostly the mild steel) that have been nickel, copper, chrome and then gold plated and those items are VERY sensitive to tools. Almost impossible to get a tool on one without the plating wanting to chip. I'm glad I only went that route with just a few items.

The tools I've been using for everything have been brand new Snap on 12pt sockets that are only used for the gold plated stuff. if I'm worried about messing something up I just use cling wrap to protect the heads. To answer your question about the plating, I have about 6K in plating alone. Wasn't planning on getting that out of control with it all, though. Hahaha.

Thanks for the extensive reply.
Interesting to hear about its durability [on some metals].
Clean, new sockets makes a lot of sense!
And thanks for the insight into cost! Holy fuck that's not spare change at all! Worth it for the look, anodized gold usually just looks like the tackier shade of yellow ano'.

[mrkrinkle]

Wow. That engine bay will look stunning when finished!

If you don't mind me asking...
What's gold plating worth in comparison to other options? eg. anodizing, powder coating etc etc.
Or did you pick a gold anodize [Doesn't look like it though]?

What do you use to protect the surface coating from tools? Velvet lined spanners haha

Honestly surprised more people haven't asked that..

It's real 24K plating, done a couple different ways. All of the ARP hardware (which is stainless steel) has a reallllllly thin layer of nickel under the even thinner layer of gold. It's really damn resilient too. Almost impossible to scratch, doesn't react to heat that I've been able to tell too. I've torched one bolt and nothing happened.. I've even had to use an impact on one that seized in the trans (I used the wrong bolt, wasn't due to the plating) and it barey made a mark. Only problems I've encountered have been the ARP threads are a lot sharper (more accurate?) than the OEM VW stuff, so I've had to chase every thread of the OEM cast stuff before installing the hardware. Along with the stainless, most of the aluminum stuff is plated the same way and I have yet to run into issues with that stuff too. Greg (Swoops) said that he didn't have any issues with the plated -AN firtings going together and sealing aswell.

I was worried about the V-bands having issues due to the bending of them and whatnot when installing them, but I've had them on and off the car probably 10-15 times now and haven't had an issue, so that's nice.

However, there are some items (mostly the mild steel) that have been nickel, copper, chrome and then gold plated and those items are VERY sensitive to tools. Almost impossible to get a tool on one without the plating wanting to chip. I'm glad I only went that route with just a few items.

The tools I've been using for everything have been brand new Snap on 12pt sockets that are only used for the gold plated stuff. if I'm worried about messing something up I just use cling wrap to protect the heads. To answer your question about the plating, I have about 6K in plating alone. Wasn't planning on getting that out of control with it all, though. Hahaha.

[jazig.k]

Wow. That engine bay will look stunning when finished!

If you don't mind me asking...
What's gold plating worth in comparison to other options? eg. anodizing, powder coating etc etc.
Or did you pick a gold anodize [Doesn't look like it though]?

What do you use to protect the surface coating from tools? Velvet lined spanners haha

[mrkrinkle]

HAHA I know, right?

Most people would sell it at that point..

[lamsv]

Wait. How did I miss you already got a feature... only to turn around and do this?????

[mrkrinkle]

Thanks dude!! Feels good that its nearing the end of this silly addition haha.

Got my plaques from In The News for the PVW article today. I haven't even seen an actual copy of the magazine yet! haha.

[lamsv]

When ever you update your thread, it pretty much makes my day.

[mrkrinkle]

Got the catch can, brake fluid reservoir and the coolant flange with the expansion tank back from Swoops today. Gonna bring the sight glasses into my plater to see if he can get them plated for me without messing up the window portion. Also going to bring him the billet dipstick and brake fluid reservoir cap in. Hopefully thats IT for the plating..

Anyways, havent really posted much updates frankly because there aren't many.

Checklist of things to do before she runs (this weekend, hopefully)

1.) Relocate MAP sensor wires to opposite side of the harness
2.) Wrap the harness in electrical tape/techflex/heatshrink
3.) Route 0 GA wire from starter to alternator and main engine ground
4.) Final torque on everything
5.) Bolt front clip up and attach coolant hoses
6.) New spark plugs
7.) Fill with fluids
8.) Bleed brakes/clutch slave/coolant

Start the damn thing.

Anyways, here are pictures of the air setup and the new reservoirs:

Dual 444's, twin VU2 manifolds, twin Accuair tanks, dual SMC traps and check valves. Tanks and manifolds totally suspended by the hardlines. Super, super impressed with this stuff. Greg never ceases to amaze me! The symmetry is absolutely PERFECT.







Only picture I grabbed of the reservoirs for some reason. I need to shorten the clutch line on the brake res so it doesn't sit crooked.

[mrkrinkle]

That's the plan! Should be there Monday-Monday. May not see the car much down there except for the show itself, depending on how dirty it gets on the drive down haha. Yes, I'll be driving the car not towing it..