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**Teeson1111** · 01-05-2014, 07:48 PM

Originally posted by Concon666 View Post

I like this thread

thanks dude.
I'm really grateful the encouragement guys, kinda hit a wall with my patience level. but it should get better now that fab is mostly over.

**Zach Thomas** · 01-06-2014, 12:42 AM

Looks good! I just got back from a 200 mile round trip to pick up a Fox body T5 lol. Barely worth all that seat time, but oh well. It also sucks cause I still need a bellhousing and a shifter. Oh well, I didn't expect to start this project til next winter (which at this point I'm still just collecting parts without doing any real work). Also noticed on the trans I've got an open hole where something used to go, hopefully getting all the little bits I need for a complete trans don't cost me too much

One more question, especially since you mentioned the trans mount. Does the kit require a Mustang trans bracket or does the Granny's kit just bolt straight to the T5? Sorry for asking all the questions I should just ask Granny's, hope you don't mind! It just seems there are some small gaps in the info they give you on their site and all the build threads you see online.

**dvious** · 01-06-2014, 08:59 AM

This is one of those threads that i wish was 20 pages long and i could see the finished product. Doing great so far. Fab work is amazing so far.

**RolledAndPulledG** · 01-06-2014, 12:29 PM

at this rate youll be done before me lol. Youre gonna be low right?

**Teeson1111** · 01-06-2014, 12:43 PM

Originally posted by Zach Thomas View Post

Looks good! I just got back from a 200 mile round trip to pick up a Fox body T5 lol. Barely worth all that seat time, but oh well. It also sucks cause I still need a bellhousing and a shifter. Oh well, I didn't expect to start this project til next winter (which at this point I'm still just collecting parts without doing any real work). Also noticed on the trans I've got an open hole where something used to go, hopefully getting all the little bits I need for a complete trans don't cost me too much

One more question, especially since you mentioned the trans mount. Does the kit require a Mustang trans bracket or does the Granny's kit just bolt straight to the T5? Sorry for asking all the questions I should just ask Granny's, hope you don't mind! It just seems there are some small gaps in the info they give you on their site and all the build threads you see online.

Ya I feel like they're website is a bit lacking in the details in some areas. I tell you what I know and maybe that will help.
So the kit comes in a few different variations, I recommend you buy as much as your willing to spend, as your probably going to have to fab the rest of what you don't buy.
The basic kit comes with the crossmember cradle, and your choose of either a T5 or AOD (I think C4 is an option also) trans crossmember and matching tranny mount. The mounts are a custom piece as far as I understand, they aren't mustang or explorer mounts.
All 302 blocks are the same (save for minor changes in the 70's to 90's) but this kit works with all ford small blocks that use a double sump oil pan (ala mustang)
This kit will work LHD or RHD, power steering or not too. The cradle has holes in it designed to let you route the PS lines through it.
I recommend getting the driveshaft made by them too, you'll need to know what trans your using and what diff (n/a or t2) is in your rx7.
Kits also come with hardware for their pieces, everything uses as many factory placed bolts as able.
The only thing that requires modifying is the shifter opening on the trans tunnel, you need to allow the shifter room forward of the current location. They also provide a T5 shifter leg adapter that moves the shift know back far enough that the dash opening doesn't need modifying.
The stock rad also won't fit in the stock location, it will either need to be moved forward, or stood more vertical. They make a bolt in rad solution as well.
I have yet to confirm with a SN95 front accessories, but the front sway bar will not clear either, you need to move it forward. Best way is to take the forward holes and make them the back holes, weld in new forward bolts.

The sensor your missing is the speedo drive. Granny's website has a blurb on that too.

Edit: wanted to clear a piece of misinformation here

The kit doesn't come with mounts, but they are mounts for a 197x Mercury Comet (engine and trans). The rubber versions are super cheap, and I haven't found a company making sold or poly urethane mounts.

Front accessories won't change the sway bar, it hits the oil pan. You'll need to move the bar forward.
The Radiator will also need to be moved, or replaced. How much depends on which crank pulley you use. Electric fan is a must also.

Dash will require modification as well as the tunnel to accommodate a T5

my kit doesn't line up perfect to the bolt holes in my car, it took some wiggling. A friend bought the same kit for his t2 and his is even further away from the bolt holes then mine, so some hammering may be in order.

Alternator will need to be a SN95 bracket or moved elsewhere. Fairly confident a fox or explorer bracket will cause it to hit (fox due to tensioner) but I haven't tried one other than the SN95 which fits with a hairs width to spare.

website:www.grannysspeedshop.com Ordering Information 2nd gen RX-7 / Ford V-8... The purpose of this guide is to lay down the necessary tasks in an orderly fashion, to hopefully minimize the time and effort required to pull off a successful COMPLETE conversion. Often times projects such as this are undertaken without a full understanding of what is involved. Hopefully, this summary of the steps necessary will provide individuals with the insight necessary to evaluate their own abilities, and help them come up with accurate estimates for both time and cost. Most hot rodder types will not need these instructions, but if they encounter a problem at some point, it's nice to know that helpful information is a close as their computer. This is a very easy swap that can be executed successfully by the average shade tree mechanic. No special mechanical skills or tools are required. Many, if not most of the steps described here, are the same regardless of the engine choice. Injected engines will differ mostly with regards to electrical connections and fuel system plumbing. The main mechanical components and basic proceedures are generally the same. NOTE: Since we are not performing your conversion, it's up to the installer to insure that all applicable emissions and legal considerations are met. This usually means that the new engine must be of the same or newer year than the car, and has all the engine's systems complete and intact. The exception is usually the catalytic converter, and that system usually has to be consistant with the requirements of the chassis. The engine will also likely be required to be from the same class of vehicle (example: no engines from heavy duty trucks installed into passenger cars). Before proceeding, be sure to consult the appropriate local authority on the legality and conditions necessary for a successful and legal engine conversion in your area. If you would like more info on completing a smog legal conversion in California, CLICK HERE Additions and corrections to this guide are encouraged, and will hopefully result in an evolutionary process that will eventually include EVERY detail required, right down to the wrench type, sizes, torque specifications and parts required to carry out each individual step. ...Realistic Expectations... Our 2nd gen RX-7/Ford Conversion Kits allow installing the 260/289/302/5.0/351W engines into the 2nd gen RX-7 with a simple bolt-in process. Due to the location of the Ford engine's oil pump in the front of the engine, this engine must be mounted farther forward and slightly higher than the Chevy engine in order to clear the RX-7's steering rack. The effect of this forward/higher engine position is that both hood clearance and radiator-to-accessory drive clearance are reduced. Here are a few ways to minimize issues in these areas... Hood Clearance...A few methods are available to increase hood clearance. You can use one or all the methods listed below as needed... ......Intake Selection...Use one of the lower profile intake set-ups such as that used on the T-Bird. ......Subframe Shimming...1/2" thick spacers can be installed between the RX-7 chassis and the stock RX-7 front subframe. The net effect is that the entire engine and steering rack are lowered in relation to the body, which increases hood clearance. The steering rack is lowered along with the lower control arm's inner pivot points. This is much preferred over simply lowering the steering rack and engine only, which would create a nasty bump-steer situation. Lowering the entire subframe minimizes any ill effects. This modification has no effect whatsoever on ride height due to the RX-7's strut style front suspension geometry. ......Plenum Milling...This method is often used when stuffing the 5.0 into the Miata as well. The idea is to mill the mating surface of the plenum where it attaches to the lower intake manifold. The amount milled depends on the clearance between the plenum and the valve cover, so use the shortest valve covers you can to maximize the gain. Many mill to the point that the plenum actually contacts the valve cover, and then grind clearance into the bottom side of the plenum to eliminate the contact. Radiator to Accessory Drive Clearance...Older carbureted engines have the option of using a short water pump, but the injected engines can use the shorter accessory drive set-up that was used on the T-Bird or the '94-'95 Mustang. Effects On Maintenence & Reliability... ...If you already own a 2nd gen RX-7, then you already know about the rotarys maintenance requirements, have probably heard stories about dealer service departments that lack proper training on rotary engines, and chances are, your beautiful RX-7 is probably on its 2nd or 3rd engine by now. The RX-7 has not been sold in the US since 1995, and replacement parts are getting scarce. The Ford engine, on the other hand, is one of the most common engine on the planet. Most any person with automotive experience has worked on one, and a large factory trained network of technicians exist from coast to coast. The modern Ford engine routinely goes 100k between tune-ups, and replacement parts are among the cheapest and most common. Effects On Performance... ...As you might suspect, the switch to a V-8 powerplant has an effect on performance too. The additional low-end torque makes the RX-7 very easy to drive, and is available throughout the RPM range. No longer will you have to excessively slip the clutch at a stop light to keep from killing the engine. No longer do you have to downshift, wait for your RPMs to come up (or boost to build) to pass a car. No longer will you live in constant fear of the dreaded carbon lock. With the V-8, your power is always available. If and when it comes time for an upgrade, things can really get interesting. Simple $100. modifications can result in 15-20hp increases, while spending a mere $4-5000. can get you up to around 500hp level. We are seeing low to mid 13 second 1/4mi times from mild smog legal engines with around 300-325hp, which is better than the high 13 second times that were possible with the 3rd gen RX-7s stock twin turbo rotary engine. Effects On Weight, Balance, and Handling... ...This is where you probably expected there to be a downside. People have probably told you that your handling and perfect weight distribution will be ruined with the addition of that big, heavy, american V-8. Just ask yourself if any of those so-called experts you have been talking to have any actual experience with piston-powered RX-7s. Weve got the numbers to prove all those bystanders and spectators are just that....bystanders and spectators. Here are some real numbers from a typical 2nd gen RX-7 converted to Chevy power (remember, the Chevy is a bit heavier than the Ford): The example car is an 86, which was not lightened in any way. The car was converted using a ZZ-4 crate engine & T-5 transmission. It has a full stock interior, as well as the stock air conditioning and power steering. The stock RX-7 cooling system was re-located but retained, as was the stock RX-7s engine oil cooler. The battery was relocated to rear area just in front of the tail lites. With a full tank of fuel, the balance is close to 50/50, 1535 lbs front / 1545 lbs rear, for a total of 3080 lbs (including the 200lb driver). Subtract the weight of the 200lb driver, and the total weight is 2880, 235lbs heavier than the RX-7's 2645 stock weight, and amazingly slightly less than the later Turbo II's stock weight of 3003lbs. Will the Ford Engine Clear My Hood?... Some combinations of parts can clear your hood, but most common 5.0 engines with taller aftermarket intake manifolds will have a problem. Here's some pics of the clearance needed for a Trickflow intake and the scoop that looks good to cover it... Skills Required... ...If you have a good grasp of things mechanical, do all your own automotive maintenance, have a good selection of tools and know how to use them, you are probably qualified to perform this swap. Estimating Time For Completion... ...We have broken th conversion process down into smaller steps (links listed below). This allows the person actually doing the conversion to estimate the time he should allow depending on his abilities and resources. Next page.... 1....Introduction.... 2....Considerations & Requirements.... 3....Getting Started.... 4....Engine / Transmission Installation.... 5....Exhaust / Throttle Cable / Accessory Drive / Pulleys.... 6....Cooling / Fuel Systems.... 7....RX-7 Wiring Harness Connector ID and Circuit Locations.... 8....Electrical System Modifications By Circuit.... 9....Start-up / Troubleshooting.... 10....Upgrades.... Granny's Speed Shop Home Page

http://grannys.tripod.com/2F8instructions1.html

Mods, don't go editing my thread without at least notifying me. And to Grannies or who ever felt the need to come in here, make a website that doesn't completely suck. The dash was clearanced in a later post. A fox alt relocation bracket will fit but makes for a really long belt. I think I even listed part numbers for the engine mounts. There is a company that made or makes (not sure if they still are) poly mounts but they were expensive. To anyone looking at buying a kit, regardless of the fact it's "jig welded" not a single one I've laid hands on has dropped in. They all take fighting and ruining of the powder coat to get it to sit correctly. The transmission crossmember also leaves very little room for an exhaust.

-Teeson

Originally posted by dvious View Post

This is one of those threads that i wish was 20 pages long and i could see the finished product. Doing great so far. Fab work is amazing so far.

Thanx! Haha it'll get there

**Teeson1111** · 01-06-2014, 02:54 PM

Originally posted by RolledAndPulledG View Post

at this rate youll be done before me lol. Youre gonna be low right?

Oh it'll be low. Maybe not George Markovich low, but definitely hugging the ground.

Haha you could easily beat me, just stop playing with that s13 for a while. Which btw did you rip the motor out of that?

**Zach Thomas** · 01-07-2014, 03:41 AM

Thank you very much for all the answers! I'm sure I'll ask some more as time goes on if you don't mind

I actually am planning on going with the basic kit, mainly because I there's a driveshaft shop about 30 minutes away from my house that should have no problem with it (lucky me!) and I would rather not spend the money they want for a radiator.

I can guarantee that after cursing myself and the parts I choose not to buy from Grannys I'll regret my decision. But that's usually how my car projects go

I am extremely happy to have found this thread though, because by the time I start my car you will probably have a great example for me to follow

EDIT: also kinda sucks about the front sway bar. At least there is a way to make it work. I would assume the stock SN95 accessories will clear everything alright based on the few builds (albeit foxbody engines) I've seen. I just started cutting down my factory cast SN95 accessory brackets last night. Too cheap to buy aftermarket brackets for running an alternator-only setup, so the sawzall is taking care of business!

**Teeson1111** · 01-16-2014, 09:36 PM

Originally posted by Zach Thomas View Post

Thank you very much for all the answers! I'm sure I'll ask some more as time goes on if you don't mind

I actually am planning on going with the basic kit, mainly because I there's a driveshaft shop about 30 minutes away from my house that should have no problem with it (lucky me!) and I would rather not spend the money they want for a radiator.

I can guarantee that after cursing myself and the parts I choose not to buy from Grannys I'll regret my decision. But that's usually how my car projects go

I am extremely happy to have found this thread though, because by the time I start my car you will probably have a great example for me to follow

EDIT: also kinda sucks about the front sway bar. At least there is a way to make it work. I would assume the stock SN95 accessories will clear everything alright based on the few builds (albeit foxbody engines) I've seen. I just started cutting down my factory cast SN95 accessory brackets last night. Too cheap to buy aftermarket brackets for running an alternator-only setup, so the sawzall is taking care of business!

Ya I don't mind answering questions, thats what the internet and forums are for right?

The basic kit is totally worth the cost, the rad kit I feel is definitely overpriced. We'll have to see how I fare with the stock rad and a huge fan and lots of ducting.

The slave adapter kit they sell also doesn't appear to be useful, its basically all the parts you need with no bracket built, or adapter for the firewall (the hard parts) so no point in buying it through them

If you can handle fab work I've seen this swap done with out a kit, kit just makes it way easier.

The from sway may fit with SN95 stuff, I really hope it does. Been doing a lot of reading on suspension lately and if I move the sway bar forward it will alter the spring force it provides.

Are you putting the alt down low? I thought about putting it where the air pump was, but that makes the reverse rotation water pump impossible to use. The newer style timing chain covers (explorer, SN95) all use reverse rotation (relative to the crankshaft) water pumps.
This is how I was going to do until I get a good electric water pump:

you have a build thread somewhere I can follow?

**Teeson1111** · 01-16-2014, 09:56 PM

So I have been working at it still,

been rocking out like I was back in high school

love these guys, were one of the first bands to combine rock/pop and modern electronic music properly. Their new album seems good so far, and before anyone says "mainstream" they made their sound popular, thats why its now "mainstream"

so back to last time, took the subframes all apart

found the rear wheels bearings had play, soooo out they came

Mating surfaces looked good

but they was diiiiiirrty. So a quick one over with the wire wheel and they came out clean isn. I'm not gonna say I spent a ton of time on a part that no one will see and that's gonna get covered in brake dust and more importantly tire rubber

before

after

ann denn
knocked the races off the hubs and painted them

you know cuz everyone will see them under all the rotor and wheel and brake dust and tire rubber. lolz

these went nice and easy

can't say the same however for these stupid things

I managed to get one of the trailing arm bushings out, but the other one however

ruined my shop press!

So I'm getting a buddy to torch it out, no more of this risky sketchy pressing out business

so after that I got new bearings and seals. put the DTSS eliminators in too, they were pretty tough actually…

ann denn

annnnn dennn

annnnnnnnnnn deeennnnnnn

took the fronts apart and found no play! which is weird, cuz there was a bit of play in the front end, so that means ball joints.

and then just for the giggles (and maybe the internet fame) I did this

and consider this the before pic

they'll be an after when the subframe is reassembled.

and I'll leave you with this teaser

brake line goodies, hopefully doing these this weekend

**axelillo_PR** · 01-16-2014, 10:15 PM

Dammit. I need a garage and an fc shell now. Any wheel and aero plans?

**Teeson1111** · 01-17-2014, 03:28 AM

Originally posted by axelillo_PR View Post

Dammit. I need a garage and an fc shell now. Any wheel and aero plans?

yes and yes, but those are a secret for now

I want to try some never done before stuff

**LaMaR-** · 01-17-2014, 05:54 AM

Damn looking good, I am thinking about selling my FC with 5.0 swap. Or just the 5.0 swap lol. I'm ready to have boost again. Keep up the good work.

**Pabs587** · 01-17-2014, 06:09 AM

Looking good, great job, my friend at statusworks here in houston has one as well built 5.0 with a kb s/c.

**Pseudonyms** · 01-17-2014, 11:20 AM

This is super sick. Keep the updates rolling in. Inspiring me to get to work on my car!

**Teeson1111** · 01-17-2014, 07:37 PM

Originally posted by LaMaR- View Post

Damn looking good, I am thinking about selling my FC with 5.0 swap. Or just the 5.0 swap lol. I'm ready to have boost again. Keep up the good work.

haha theres a simple solution here

boost the 5.0

Originally posted by Pabs587 View Post

Looking good, great job, my friend at statusworks here in houston has one as well built 5.0 with a kb s/c.

thanx! love to see pics/info! i'd imagine the kenne belle sticks through the hood, which would look pretty awesome. or you mean he has a 5.0 mustang with a KB?

Originally posted by Pseudonyms View Post

This is super sick. Keep the updates rolling in. Inspiring me to get to work on my car!

thanx man! Stanceworks is what inspires me to get back in the garage, glad to contribute to the flame

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