FC RX7 5.0 race car thread

[Sprinqer]

Just read through this for about an hour and a half...absolutely insane..I love it!

[Teeson1111]

When is the blue car getting a build thread?

lol no plans there, ill just throw it in here most likely.

and i'm pretty Zach is right about the gauge senders, use the RX7 ones where the 5.0 gauge ones would go.
Dakota Digital makes a tach adapter than I'm pretty sure would make it easier, but I read through the how-to on grannies to make the RX7 tach adjust to the V8 signal and it doesn't look too bad.
I'm pretty sure the speedo cables are the same, just take the cable from the RX7 and put it in the T5/mustang speedo drive gear. just keep in mind you'll need the plastic gear for the 4.10 diff ratio in the RX7.

Just read through this for about an hour and a half...absolutely insane..I love it!

thanks dude!


update soon, just getting a few last things done before I post

[Teeson1111]

I've been rocking out to a new-to-me band, Saint Motel. Makes everything fun really. Really catchy and groovy (they are pretty 70s centric, in a good way) I'm going to see them when they come to Vancouver at the end of April.

So some time ago now I finished putting the engine and fluids in

IMG_6757 by Teeson111, on Flickr

I think I forgot to take this pic off my camera but oh well. I like mobil one and OEM filters when I can't get a Wix XP filter in time. From my research the OEM's are pretty good and built by Purolator to Ford's spec. Always have had good experience with Mobil1, the forums say good things about it in these engines as well. For the amount of km before the next oil change i'm not going to sweat over it regardless

Then things got a little scarier

IMG_6831 by Teeson111, on Flickr

Took the T2 diff I had apart to shim it. I measured its breakaway torque at around 60 ft-lb's and decided to shim it to near spool territory. I want like 150 ft-lb's.

Also drilled the pinion to accept the N/A driveshaft flange on my driveshaft.

IMG_6834 by Teeson111, on Flickr

IMG_6833 by Teeson111, on Flickr

Wasn't as bad as I thought to do either. Still had to go buy a 10mm drill bit to get the size right.

Everything looked ok inside

IMG_6835 by Teeson111, on Flickr

IMG_6840 by Teeson111, on Flickr

I carefully laid and marked everything as it came out. You want to keep everything on the same side as it came out.

Then I copied and cut some pop cans I had around

IMG_6850 by Teeson111, on Flickr

I'm really a Coke-a-Cola drinker but it was recycling day the day before, I was desperate

2 shims a side measure out to an added 0.210mm each side. I hope thats not too much. My diff seems to be a bit worn (measure all the discs at a few thou under spec) and it also appears to have been rebuilt. It was owned by a bunch of RX7 enthusiasts before me so I'm not very surprised.

IMG_6851 by Teeson111, on Flickr

Back together, lock tight and torque wrench the whole way. This feels like engine building to me, its really cool but its scary because tight tolerances and its easy to ruin something.

I still have to set bearing pre-load and correct gear mesh. Unsure how to set bearing pre-load without a special tool, so I may cave and take it to a place, just in case.

I had my buddy help me out with a few things I've been putting off

IMG_6848 by Teeson111, on Flickr

Stainless steel battery box, just needs some welding and a hole or two. NHRA spec as well

IMG_6847 by Teeson111, on Flickr

Had a slight misunderstanding of sheet metal gauge, so these seat brackets he made me were waaaaaaay overkill haha. But it looks cool, especially the logo he cut in. He works at a place called Metaltropolis, their website is WeldBC.com, hit him up if you're in the local area and need any CNC work or metal order. I've gotten them to do my little CNC projects here and there and me and my dad buy all our metal and welding/grinding supplies from them. Great bunch there.

I painted the inside edge of the logo and clear coated them, I think it looks pretty good

IMG_6854 by Teeson111, on Flickr

And a terrible photo showing what it looks like in car

IMG_6856 by Teeson111, on Flickr

This means my passenger seat is finally installed and ready for the season

IMG_6858 by Teeson111, on Flickr

Still have a decent list of small stuff to do before doing events (which are starting), like this

IMG_6843 by Teeson111, on Flickr

Setting up my line lock on a switch and LED. I moved the button into the ashtray as well. No more accidental engaging

[electricalbox]

Amazing work.

[Zach Thomas]

Ugh must stop my side projects and get back to my FC!! Amazing work as always!

[Teeson1111]

Amazing work.

Ugh must stop my side projects and get back to my FC!! Amazing work as always!

Thanks boys!

[805vert]

Very nice build ill be doing this swap this summer to my vert. Any tips ahead of time??

[Teeson1111]

Very nice build ill be doing this swap this summer to my vert. Any tips ahead of time??

Thanks dude!

Read this thread, Granny's Speed Shop and you should be pretty set methinks

[Teeson1111]

Also post up a build thread!

[805vert]

Thanks dude!

Read this thread, Granny's Speed Shop and you should be pretty set methinks

I already have the granny mounts and suspension is basically done besides steering knuckles. Just looking for an engine/tranny. Probably going the route you did with the clutch system using the miata slave.

[Skervey]

Hey im about to pick up a SN95 EFI system, ECM, harness, intake, dizzy... fingers crossed that its everything I need, what helped you figure out what you needed and what you didn't? My first time messing with efi so im clueless!

[Teeson1111]

I already have the granny mounts and suspension is basically done besides steering knuckles. Just looking for an engine/tranny. Probably going the route you did with the clutch system using the miata slave.

Nice, hope my posting helps

Hey im about to pick up a SN95 EFI system, ECM, harness, intake, dizzy... fingers crossed that its everything I need, what helped you figure out what you needed and what you didn't? My first time messing with efi so im clueless!

a decent amount of reading but I basically deleted:
A/C
EGR solenoid
Cruise control anything

diagrams from veryuseful.com, and more importantly pin tracing. ID and label each plug, then de pin and remove as needed.
The SN95 has that awesome bolt together connector in the passenger fender, I re-used it. except the Alt, MAF and fan wiring I think everything else you'll need for the engine is on that connector.

[Skervey]

Well I may have gotten screwed... He gave me the injector part of the harness and the ECM but not the wiring that goes from the harness to the ECM so as of now im dead in the water... Might go to the just yard and just pull a full system and get it over with. The guy was going to carb in his mustang and didn't even know that he needed a vacuum advance distributor, let alone what it did!

[Teeson1111]

John Mayers new album is stellar. I'm told he suffered some vocal range loss and can't sing as high as he used to be able to, but I don't even miss it after listening to Paradise Valley. My favourite album since Continuum.
A bit slow and sappy for working in the garage, but keeps me chill for when I can't get that last bolt or something lol.

so finishing what I started:

IMG_6859 by Teeson111, on Flickr

borrowed a dial indicator and set backlash and mesh. (thanks Steve!)

IMG_6868 by Teeson111, on Flickr

everything torque'd, lock-tite'd and assembled

IMG_6869 by Teeson111, on Flickr

out with old

IMG_6870 by Teeson111, on Flickr

in with new.

took it out for a drive, and wasn't exactly sure what to make of it. Locked up diff is great, and good fun. Still smooth for low speed cornering with little hopping (worse in the rain or gravel) or clicking. But it made a noise like a plane taking off when under full load. So took it out and loosened the backlash a few thou (it was a touch tight) then put it all back in again, noise is still there. So whatever, there was no grindings in the oil or wear so maybe thats how the diff was before I got it. The old was was loud too with no interior and solid everything.

Then I took the n/a LSD that was in it, took it apart and put 3 pop cans (total) in it and reassembled, set backlash and mesh and swapped it with the auto n/a diff in my daily RX7. It's very nice having a LSD in there, makes no noise, breakaway ended at 100 ft-lbs and I need to add some friction modifier to prevent it from clicking.

I went in detail here (http://westcoastrotary.com/posting.p...ply&f=10&t=393) if you're interested in reading more.

Now besides the rust built on the exhaust you may also notice those aren't the same wheels I've had on it, a buddy threw me some freebie 18" tires so i could roll to a meet we had

IMG_6863 by Teeson111, on Flickr

IMG_6862 by Teeson111, on Flickr

they pretty. however there wasnt much rubber left to start with, lol there definitely isn't much left now

anyway back to finishing things

IMG_6872 by Teeson111, on Flickr

got the battery box welded and assembled.

IMG_6873 by Teeson111, on Flickr

its a tight fit

IMG_6876 by Teeson111, on Flickr

IMG_6867 by Teeson111, on Flickr

to the point where I'm going to have to go with a flat lid just to clear the seat. The last pic was during test fitting, i got a little more space than that but not enough to use the lid I have.

IMG_6865 by Teeson111, on Flickr

took the stock S4 lip and drilled some holes, riveted some rivets and glued some glue to get this. It's cove surround from home depot. I love buying race car parts from home depot. Using things in ways for which they were never intended.

IMG_6871 by Teeson111, on Flickr

I'll let you guess where this goes

IMG_6875 by Teeson111, on Flickr

or not. Still have to put it in, but finally got the parts and made the oil temp sender. We have a Faria temp sender, JB weld and a 2004 WRX drain plug with gasket. m20x1.5 is coincidentally the same thread pitch the WRX uses for a drain plug and that ford used for the oil level sender in the side of the pan.

IMG_6860 by Teeson111, on Flickr

apologies for the photo. I made a quick gas pedal out of some scrap aluminum. More to have one but also to experiment with shape and size. The little angled part on the side is awesome for rev matching.

[Zach Thomas]

As always, very nice work!

Aaaaaannnnnnd question time for you my searching has failed me. On the Mustang mini starters (the stock ones on at least the 94-95s, maybe other years) the solenoid on the starter has the one stud that goes to the positive battery terminal and the other that goes to the ignition switch. Is there any reason to not just directly hook up the starter wire off the ignition switch to the solenoid? As in no relay or anything? I can't see how it would really hurt it seeing as all the diagrams show the starter wire being 18 gauge or so, but as I mentioned earlier I seem to have a hard time to finding some answers from the Ford sites. The stock RX7 wiring does have the starter cut relay, but to me it looks like that is used more for the factory alarm than taking a load off the ignition switch.