FC RX7 5.0 race car thread

[Teeson1111]

Thanks for the help! I put spacers in mine for more room under the hood. I know I will have to cut the webbing but my GT40 intake is huge! (Same as cobra) and there is no way it will fit under to hood. I have found that a distributer with vacume advance to run a carb will be to tall to fit, and i was planning on going efi down the road anyway so i might as well spend the time on it now and go efi. The only bad part is I have no efi parts so I will be starting from scratch. Did a lot of looking around and I think im going to go with a 88-93 set up. There are some local parts yards with some of the pieces I need, ill just have to track them all down.

Should be a fun car, i hope to try and drift with mine, as well as DD a little and auto cross and do some hooning. I am having a guy from work cut and shorten the steering arms on my spindles for more angle and faster steering. Lucky for me he will do it for nothing!

honestly, just buy a complete running engine out of an sn95. i know you have stuff for it already, I went through that. its sooooo much easier and simpler especially if your not super familiar with the EFI side of things.

a word of caution, knuckles are cast and require special heat up and cool down procedures to make a strong weld. the angles and science involved in doing it takes some skill as well. if you're guy hasn't done it successfully before, i'd strongly consider buying some professionally done ones.

Looking good as always! How deep is the 5.0 rad fan + shroud? I might be able to answer my own question if I track one down soon but in the meantime I'd like to finish mocking up the radiator

its around 5" deep. From the rad core to the tip of the back of the motor. so maybe take a 1/4" at most off that, but 5" to be safe haha

[Skervey]

Ya i wish I would have gotten a full motor now and who know I may buy one and swap all the parts onto mine. My motor just has such low miles and is in really good shape.

As far as the steering arms I am very lucky to work at one of the biggest mustang II hot rod suspension shops and they do this kind of work all the time. I saw them do it to some old forged spindles for a cuatomer that wanted a tighter turning radius on his old buick. Then thought hey that would work for drifting. Then looked at it online and thats what companies will do for you but it cost big time! And thankfully they are drop forged and not cast. You can tig weld drop forged parts you cant do kuch with forged.

I have a spare set of spindels that im going to shorten so i will have one stock and one shortend to conpare and have a spare if somthing were to go wrong.

[Zach Thomas]

its around 5" deep. From the rad core to the tip of the back of the motor. so maybe take a 1/4" at most off that, but 5" to be safe haha

Thank you much

Now for another question, what are your thoughts on these? FC subframe spacers I can find almost no information on them at all. I think they'd be sweet cause with those spacers + cut hood webbing it would probably let us run aftermarket intakes without a hole in the hood My concern with it is suspension geometry being thrown off, I just don't know how much of an issue it would really be. Lowering the car will already throw off some things so I feel these will only make it worse but my naivety of the Macpherson strut suspension characteristics might be showing through here. Anyways hope you don't mind throwing an open question in your thread but figured it has some relevance.

[DreKay3]

ive been meaning to ask, did you run a MAP sensor? If so did it idle hard or did you get a code or anything? i am currently stuck between a bunch of people saying i do and dont need it so... i figured id ask you since you have already done your complete swap.

[DreKay3]

Also what intake did you get? i looks like it fits perfectly!

[Skervey]

DreKay3- its a intake from a SN95 aka a 1994-95 mustang intake, I only know because I asked above.

Zach Thomas- the spacers is what I heard to do on granny speed. Its just using washers between the sub frame and sub frame rail to move the body up up more. Yes it will mess up your geometry but a stop at the alignment shop should get you back to normal. I think it will just give you a bit more camber and a touch more caster but we are talking 1/10th of a degree.

But I could be totally wrong... In a race car I wouldn't mess with it but my car will never have the kind of grip that racing slicks have so I don't see an issue.

[Teeson1111]

ive been meaning to ask, did you run a MAP sensor? If so did it idle hard or did you get a code or anything? i am currently stuck between a bunch of people saying i do and dont need it so... i figured id ask you since you have already done your complete swap.

I'm running the MAF sensors (70mm bigger than fox or explorer i believe) which has an Air Intake Temperature sender separate plugged in behind it.

You may be referring to a speed density setup, if so I'd steer clear and go with more modern ECU stuff. Unless its megasquirt the ford oem got much better than SD

with timing set, i didn't even have to adjust idle. i left it the way it was from the previous owner and its been fine. I don't believe you can safely run the engine without a MAF, if it will run it will probably be in a limp mode of sorts.


Zach - I agree with Skervey. the geometry change should be completely correctable with appropriate adjustable parts. I can't see the subframe spacers gaining you more than a 1/2" at most which is still not enough to run a different intake manifold. in extreme situations spacing the subframe and losing some of the contact surface area could case flex, but who knows how much and under what loads. I choose a hole in the hood over a possible performance loss lol
If and when I cut a hole in the hood, it'll be for a Holley systemax or Trick flow. something worth a 30+ hp

[Teeson1111]

and also good to hear that your guy sounds legit Skervey

[Zach Thomas]

Zach - I agree with Skervey. the geometry change should be completely correctable with appropriate adjustable parts. I can't see the subframe spacers gaining you more than a 1/2" at most which is still not enough to run a different intake manifold. in extreme situations spacing the subframe and losing some of the contact surface area could case flex, but who knows how much and under what loads. I choose a hole in the hood over a possible performance loss lol
If and when I cut a hole in the hood, it'll be for a Holley systemax or Trick flow. something worth a 30+ hp

Yeah those ones are supposedly an inch, which is significant enough to be worth it I think but only if it doesn't screw up the geometry too much. Meh, worst case when I go to get an intake I'll probably just get a dmax style hood vent to fit somehow

[Pilks]

Stumbled upon this Chet Faker dude. Kinda reminds me of Citizen Cope a bit. Good beat, doesn't feel like rap tho and is chill. Not too chill that its slow to work to, but like smooth lol.
Currently obsessed with Drop The Game, which is with a guy named Flume who has a wicked sound cloud/music in general

Looks like the americans finally stumbled upon australian music! theres tonnes of stuff like this from down under, if you like that sort of stuff look at citizen kay and porter robinson incase you dont know them..

Your build is insane dude! such top work, sorry i didnt read the thread but is it for drifting or proper racing? it looks like drifting if you're going for such a wide lock.

[Pilks]

Stumbled upon this Chet Faker dude. Kinda reminds me of Citizen Cope a bit. Good beat, doesn't feel like rap tho and is chill. Not too chill that its slow to work to, but like smooth lol.
Currently obsessed with Drop The Game, which is with a guy named Flume who has a wicked sound cloud/music in general

you americans are finally finding australian music hey! if you like that sound look at peope like citizen kay and broods, also porter robinson for some electro house sort of stuff

Sorry for not saying anything thread worthy haha

[sethicus]

Hey teeson i sent you a pm!

[Teeson1111]

you americans are finally finding australian music hey! if you like that sound look at peope like citizen kay and broods, also porter robinson for some electro house sort of stuff

Sorry for not saying anything thread worthy haha

Haha all good. And ya the Australians seem to be making their way into the North American music scene. I'll have to check out Porter Robinson
And lol I'm Canadian

Car is a drift car, but I'll see autoX and drag for sure. Maybe I'll try a track day

Hey teeson i sent you a pm!

Received!

[Skervey]

Ill put this out for Teeson1111 and Zach Thomas, im almost done with my mock up and then it will be painting and final install. But I need to figure out how to get the oil and temp gauge on the stock dash to work. I thinking about getting oil and temp sensors for the rx7 and installing them on the 302.

I really want to make the stock dash work. Granny speed shows you how to calibrate for the rev counter and iv seen online where people use a stock foxbody speedo cable to the mazda cluster but no one talks much about the other stuff. I amuse the volt meter will still work the same as well as the gas gauge.

[Zach Thomas]

The volt meter should work like stock as you assumed, I don't see how they could do anything weird there. Stock fuel gauge will be unaffected, just keep the stock RX7 wiring intact for it and you'll be good to go! And yes to my knowledge just get the stock RX7 sensors and figure out what adapters you need to screw them into the 302. I'd be willing to bet you can find them off the shelf at a local autoparts store, or through Autometer or any of the other big gauge companies. Also, I think I'm following you on IG haha.

And on the topic of Australian bands, thank you for Closure in Moscow

When is the blue car getting a build thread?