Kaido Crown

[Thom]

Nothing is even done yet. Come back when its all slammed. Otherwise i cant blow my wad.

[Concon666]

Awesome. I'd go for option 3 too. :-)

[180roman]

I think I have figured out what tires I should run for the rear of the Crown on the 15x12s.

These are some examples of 225/50r15s stretched on 12" wide wheels and I think that should work.

[180roman]

So I've decided to change the leaky diff in the Crown.
It appeared to have stopped leaking which could meant it was just out of oil, so I thought I'd better get around to replacing it since I've had a spare diff already in the garage for it.

After a fighting with all the bolts and nuts, I've finally got the old diff out.



And then I ran into a problem.



The rear diff mount is held on by 2 19mm nuts and the studs were sticking out pretty far through the nut, so a regular 19mm socket could not reach. And silly me have been meaning to get a deep 19mm socket for a while but never got round to it.

So after thinking and trying different ideas to get it off I've tried all the wheel braces out of my cars, but all my cars run 21mm wheel nuts.

Lucky dad came home with the Civic when I was about to call it a day coz the shops were already closed, so I couldn't buy one. And by coincidence the Civic had a 19mm wheel brace and it worked well at undoing the rear mount.

So chucked the new diff in and tightened everything up.

Noticed that due to the suspension design in the rear end, the drive shafts actually turn as the wheel goes through the arc of travel. Hopefully this isn't going to be an issue once I run 25kg springs, as that should limit the turning and the travel. Wouldn't want to be breaking diff centers once I get it welded up.

Dropped the car back down onto the bump stops and damn there is still so much room under the car to go lower, but it is just mind boggling how well the chassis is made to go low. The fuel tank is in the boot behind the rear seats and the frame is nicely tucked into the sills, so the floor is pretty much flush with the rails.

I do see the spare wheel well becoming a problem, it hangs quite low and overhangs at the back of the car, so it will surely get beached on every small incline.

There are already a couple of scrape marks on it...




Things left to do are:
replace driver's side mirror glass,
replace a couple of blown tail light globes,
tape up the broken tail light lens,
weld up the leaking exhaust

I think hopefully with this list ticked off the car should pass Club Registration

Id say option 3. Cant wait to see more progress with the build, and the last name of founder of Toyota was Toyoda but they changed the name because apparently Toyota is easier to pronounce

I'm also leaning towards option 3, it will make it a lot neater and factory looking, so hopefully I wouldn't have much trouble clearing defects that way when I get done by police.

[TheCrabMaster]

Id say option 3. Cant wait to see more progress with the build, and the last name of founder of Toyota was Toyoda but they changed the name because apparently Toyota is easier to pronounce

[180roman]

Well I haven't been twiddling my thumbs all this time.
Well actually I have, coz I went away for 1 week, but after I did try and do some work on the Crown.

I've been trying to figure out how I should proceed with modifying the front end and what needs to be done to have the wheels fit.

The car is a ladder frame chassis and as such most of the parts on this car are bolt on. Including the inner tubs on the front.







But these tubs are not plastic, they are metal and have a lot of stuff bolt onto them.



The problem is, the area where the tubs meet the fenders will get in the way of going low and flaring the guards.

So I've been investigating a few options.
Option 1:
Remove the tubs completely and run air tubs.
The issue with this is that there are a lot of things that mount to the tubs, so this will need to be cleaned up/relocated or new brackets made.
The also means that the engine bay will get filthy really quickly as all the dirt will be flying in.

Option 2:
Cut out the section where the inner tub meets the fender, but leave the section that continues to the engine bay.
This solution should give enough clearance to flare the guards and lower the car without scrubbing.
It will also stop dirt from coming into the engine bay unlike air tubs and will also let me leave most of the engine bay untouched.

Option 3:
Unbolt the fender from the inner tub where they join and flare the fender to suit the wheels.
Then massage the inner tub with a hammer to clearance for wheels and lows.
This should let me retain and almost stock appearance for when trying to clear defects, but one that would probably take the most panel beating work.

I've also been investigating what kind of coilovers I should order.





The spring and shock mount is about half way on the lower arm, which means that there is a lot more leverage at that point, about double.
So I think I will need to up the spring rates I was planning to order. Now I'm not sure if I should be ordering 40kg or 60kg spring rates...

Also the shock is really short, so the whole coilover assembly would have to be tiny...
The exact length I will need to figure out once I drop the suspension out and can fit a ruler in there.


To tidy up the look of the engine bay I think I'll just respray the valve covers as most of the paint has flaked off with age. Just factory wrinkle black with brushed fins

Oh and apparently its a TOYODA

[montgomery]

Hurry up I'm growing agitated.

[floatingdino]

wrong post roman, it needs to say

"The Crown is on the ground and the wheels go round"

[180roman]

Made use of the Crown grill that I can't fit.

Mood lighting setup for my room

[180roman]

Then dort dort

Japan Car Mod Gangs - Kaido (Highway) Racer II - YouTube

I love the whole way they modify cars, they just do whatever they want.

The engine revving thing they do is their "Call" and different clubs have different "call".

When I went to Japan last November I was lucky enough to meet Team Burst driver Naoki Nakamura and he played us his "call" in his S13 at the G1 GP afterparty after he had a few drinks.

It went something like this, I don't have the footage from the night, but it is somewhere on a friend's facebook

Lower dis bitch already plz

The rear is lowered... :P

I'm working 15 days in a row atm, so no time or energy for cars at all

[Minuki]

Lower dis bitch already plz

[Anonymoose]

Then dort dort

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wpz1b_bd5Z4"]Japan Car Mod Gangs - Kaido (Highway) Racer II - YouTube[/ame]

[180roman]

[IG]http://jasonsgrainofsalt.files.wordpress.com/2010/09/30cu2op.jpg[/IMG]

nailed it

but yeah pretty much something like that but there will still be a driveshaft coming through there

So just cut the hub off the swing arm, jack up the swing arm to the desired slammed height and mock up how the hub should sit to achieve the rim on guard lip action.

Then just tack it all together, test fit and weld in with some reinforcements

[244Brick]

[180roman]

You can't use a custom alum/steel camber shim. Then, drill the holes out and add extended bolts?

Nah not for -17 deg of camber ha ha