Fiona: A 1975 2002

[absentee]

This project is insanity.. I refuse to believe half of the things that are going on here...

[TinkWithanR]

Thanks for the support guys.

Sadly my ebay addiction continues. This is only part of the newer direction:





More to come.

[Edgar.]

Adding a few ponies I see. Do continue.

[TinkWithanR]

And then he said,

"Let there be brakes!"

And it was good.




Front:

6-Piston Forged Calipers
300mm (11.75") x 32mm (1.25") vented 2-piece rotors


Rear:
4-Piston Forged Calipers
300mm (11.75") x 32mm (1.25") vented 2-piece rotors
Retains Stock Hand Brake



The front and rear will share the same rotor disc, so maintenance/replacement will be easy. The brake bias is kept at the proper ratio due to the difference in the piston area for the 6-pot front and 4-pot rear calipers. It can then be fine tuned with the balance bar pedal setup and by changing out the master cylinders if need be.

[white out]

Those are MASSIVE for a 2002. You're going to slow the earth's rotation when you mash the middle pedal.

[dgoizo]

Tons of great work in here, and very well documented. Bravo sir, bravo

[TeckniX]

Those are MASSIVE for a 2002. You're going to slow the earth's rotation when you mash the middle pedal.

^^^ this...

I do like the idea of front and rear sharing the same rotors, easy maintenance, especially after all this work.

[Vjete]

Those are huge! This will be such a great 02!
Love to see more progress on your build.

[drifte]

I had a lot of words for your build. I think it would come out something like holy *********************************. Impressive, and such a light hearted beginning to it all. Impressive work all around.

[TinkWithanR]

Those are MASSIVE for a 2002. You're going to slow the earth's rotation when you mash the middle pedal.

That's my goal lol.

Tons of great work in here, and very well documented. Bravo sir, bravo

Thanks!

^^^ this...

I do like the idea of front and rear sharing the same rotors, easy maintenance, especially after all this work.

Me too, should simplify things a bit. It should also be cheaper once you get past the initial cost of the center hats.

Those are huge! This will be such a great 02!
Love to see more progress on your build.

I had a lot of words for your build. I think it would come out something like holy *********************************. Impressive, and such a light hearted beginning to it all. Impressive work all around.

Thanks guys!

[TinkWithanR]

Haven't had much time to work on the car lately, I've had to work 60-70 hours the past couple of weeks. My new oil pump did come in though, so I took some time to start planning out my oil system a bit.

The new pump in all it's glory. Used, but in great condition. I'll probably end up sending it in for a rebuild at some point before the car is done, but for now I'll just keep it as is for help with mocking everything up.




First up was to cut out the stock sump. For the final setup I will probably end up with either a full billet pan or welding up a custom one from a CAD design (as opposed to just modifying the stock cast pan) but for now I will use the stock one minus sump for mocking up. This pan already had a stripped drain plug, so no real harm.






For mounting the pump I really see two options, driver or passenger side. Initially I was leaning towards the driver side to help keep it away from the heat of the headers and to simplify the scavenging lines coming from the pan.

This is roughly where it would go:





And the output ports from the top. The first three would run to the oil tank and the last is the pressure out to the block.





I also mocked it up on the passenger side. This would be nice because it would allow a shorter pressure side run into the block, as well as keep the oil tank on the driver side away from the headers. The main downside to this position would be messier scavenging lines from the pan due to the tilt of the engine.





The next step will be figuring out what kind of capacity I will need for the oil tank, and seeing where I can shoehorn that into the engine bay.



Also, someone mentioned the fact of using the non-OEM stainless bolts to mount the spacer on the bottom of the strut housings, so I figured I would post up my calculations:

Thanks for your concern. You are correct, the stock BMW bolts are ISO grade 12.9 (which for the record is the equivalent of SAE grade 8 so that's a bit misleading). I have gone through the calculations comparing the two different grades and it will be fine, keeping in mind the stock '02 strut housing uses M8 bolts and the e12 strut uses M10 (probably because of the much larger curb weight). Taking those into account:

M8 Minor Diameter (the 'area' that a stress will be applied) = 6.596mm
M8 Stress Area = 34.15mm^2

M10 Minor Diameter = 8.315mm
M10 Stress Area = 54.274mm^2

So the M10 fastener has 59% more cross sectional area for a stress to act over. This means that even though the grade 12.9 bolts has 54% more tensile strength than the stainless bolt, because the stainless fastener is larger in diameter it is still stronger overall than the stock fastener. I do admit that the above maths are only valid for tension or shear failure, I didn't bother to test for thread failure. This is because the threads would pull out of the steel housing or the aluminum spacer (for the bolts holding the pitman arm to the spacer) before the threads on either fastener failed.

All that being said, thanks for bringing it up. It never hurts to check and double check things, especially when it comes to critical components.

[Welfare]

my god, i am absolutely speachless.
I have spent the last two days at work reading this, thinking i should really find a new house with a shed.

[TinkWithanR]

Lmao, I love that poster.



Here's a shot from this past weekend. From Left to Right:

Layla - 1971 Honda CB350 - I picked her up about a month ago. Plans are to strip it down to the bare essentials and repaint. Then ride the hell out of her. She'll be styled in the 'cafe racer' theme.

Fiona - 1975 BMW 2002 - The project you've all (hopefully) come to know and love.

Vern - 1972 BMW 2002 - This little guy is actually my dad's. He picked it up this past winter after a vendor at work turned me onto an estate sale. Very original, some minimal rust issues that will most likely be fixed at some point. The plans for Vern are to keep him original and just enjoy his charm. Ironically Vern is exactly how Fiona looked from the factory (exterior color and trim level), minus the taillights.






No progress to report on Fiona, but her tires came in. My initial thoughts, "this will be interesting.."

Kuhmo Ecsta XS "Extreme Performance Summer Tire" (whatever that means lol)
Front: 225-50-16
Rear: 265-45-16

In case you were wondering, there ain't gonna be no 'stretch' or 'stance' on this one. I would classify this as a meat lover's special if you know what I mean. For example, here is the new rear tire next to the stock rear tire on Vern:





And here it is 'fitted' into the rear wheel well:





As of right now I honestly don't know that I'm going to get these to fit. I may step down to 245/45's if these give me to much hassle. The good news is I got a hell of a deal on them, and the 911 guys love them so I shouldn't have an issue selling them to get a different set. That being said I have a few ideas up my sleeve and I wanna see where those take me first. I'd like to not have to worry about traction.




As always, thanks for looking!

[TeckniX]

Cb350? What are your plans/design? Build thread?

Also please do detail how you're going to hook up the oil pump ext. interested to see how it all gets plumbed. Keep st it and get Fiona up and running!

[TinkWithanR]

No build thread for the bike, I haven't done enough to it to warrant one yet. I did just order some english wheel dies, so once I get that built I should have some progress to post. I'm also planning on using the EW for some parts on Fiona, so that should be interesting.


The oil pump plumbing should be pretty straight forward. Just the standard dry sump lines between the scavenge, tank, cooler and pressure. Then the pressure line into the block can actually be run in through the stock oil filter location. It's before all of the bearings and engine components so it will be pretty simple.