1967 Pro-Touring 122 Amazon (Project Volvo X)540 Horsepower LS6/Tremec TKO600 5-Speed

[Iamtheonlyreal1]

I have considered using the 1st Gen Camaro air dam before, and I have had one on hand for awhile, but I didn't really give it a full try, so I think I will take another look at it after seeing the potential here?

By these posted pictures, I think that it has potential if it was situated several inches further back.? Luckily I have a custom metal one instead of the typical plastic, so I can take just a bit more liberty with the alteration and modification to get it just right, so I guess we will see how it works out.

[Iamtheonlyreal1]

^^^ aint that the truth........ ^^^

I have used a lot of Satin trim and stripe paints, from professional systems to various rattle can brands, and I have not found any better than Rustoleum Satin Black. I have used it for window trim and blacking out the lower rockers on a car, along with full hood black out's and stripes, and it goes on evenly and endures like nothing I have seen from other more expensive paints.. Waxes don't phase it, and it is also durable to normal scuffing or rubbing with out changing the satin finish, and that is the death nail to a lot of other brands.

[BMW BRAD]

I will more than likely go that route but I am deciding if I will vinyl wrap or paint the frames, but that will depend on how the wrap works and looks, because its hard to beat the old Rustoleum Satin Black paint..

^^^ aint that the truth........ ^^^

[Iamtheonlyreal1]

I actually like the blacked out the door and window frames....... it works well!

I will more than likely go that route but I am deciding if I will vinyl wrap or paint the frames, but that will depend on how the wrap works and looks, because its hard to beat the old Rustoleum Satin Black paint..

[BMW BRAD]

I actually like the blacked out the door and window frames....... it works well!

[Iamtheonlyreal1]

I have gotten feedback in both ways about the wheels, but we all know wheel/tires is something that is totally subjective to personal taste, and it is this that makes it difficult to satisfy everyone.. LOL They do have a bit of a modern appearance, but my intentional styling of this car was to make it a more modern version of the Amazon to match the performance upgrades, so I chose them because they fit the color scheme and other styling/clean up mods to the car..

[GroceryGetter67]

Awesome, and impressive skills. But am i the only one who really dislikes the wheels? The look to modern, and a bit cheap to me...

I've been thinking this same thing the entire time I've watched this build, I thought I was the only one that didn't like them. They don't fit the car IMO, they seem too new. I could see some old school Gotti's or mesh wheels looking great on this.

[A4crn]

Awesome, and impressive skills. But am i the only one who really dislikes the wheels? The look to modern, and a bit cheap to me...

I agree with this....maybe black centres would give more contrast, dunno...that said this is an awesome build

[DutchStance]

Awesome, and impressive skills. But am i the only one who really dislikes the wheels? The look to modern, and a bit cheap to me...

[boosted brit]

I love this it has a classic aston martin look about it, thank you for building this its made for a great read.

[Iamtheonlyreal1]

I have the First Round of Go Fast decals for the event, and I have Racing Numbers and a few more decals being made for the quarter panel area and lower fenders, along with some of the component company logo's that we use with our kits.. The main quarter panel logo will be a larger version of the hood logo with the Red Step Blocks that will fit on the upper rear quarter panel section, and it is about 70in's long, so it will go from the tail light to about 12in from the rear of the door. The front plate is going to have to come off during the event, so I think that will take away from the repetitiveness of the Swedish Ops on the front.

I really like the Hood Decal, so I am thinking that it will remain on the car after the rest of the decals come off... LOL






I had also entertained blacking out the door and window frames, and I think I like it, but I am not sure..? It definitely gives it more of a later 240 Volvo look with the black out, so I don't think it is completely out of place, but I am not entirely sold on it..

[Iamtheonlyreal1]

Someone shared a link with me, and it is suppose to calculate necessary horsepower to reach a particular speed. http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calcula...or%20Speed.php

The formula uses Frontal Surface Area, Drag Coefficient, and weight of the car to estimate, and I wonder how accurate it is? The frontal area of my amazon with a splitter is at a estimated 12 square ft. (There is a formula to calculate that, see below also),and according to the estimated Drag Coefficient of the chart below, I think I am actually over estimate it at .5 by picking the worst rating of the Sedans versus some sort description that might encompass the smaller design of the Amazon ?

Vehicle Drag Coefficient
Description-----Low----Medium---High
----------------------------------------
Experimental----0.17----0.21----0.23
Sports------------0.27----0.31----0.38
Performance-----0.32----0.34----0.38
60's Muscle------0.38----0.44----0.50
Sedan------------0.34-----0.39----0.50
Motorcycle-------0.50-----0.90----1.00
Truck-------------0.60-----0.90----1.00
Tractor-Trailer---0.60-----0.77----1.20

Calculation of Frontal Area
Frontal area represents the front projection area of the vehicle. If one takes a picture of a vehicle, it is the area included in the outline. Use the following to calculate:
1. Calculate the area of a rectangle which would encompass the front of the vehicle (multiply width by the height). For motorcycles, use the handlebar width (to a maximum width of 30 inches) and a height consisting of seat height plus an estimated "seat to helmet" height.

2. Adjust the figure obtained above for areas not included, such as top rounded corners, etc. Typical adjusting values are 85 percent for cars, 70 percent for motorcycles, and 100 percent for trucks.


Here is what was calculated, but I am not sure of the distance it takes to get there, and I am running Standing 1 Mile total.

Using your vehicle Speed of 200 MPH takes 327.68 HP to overcome air drag.
Rolling resistance is 18.03
For a total of 345.71 HP to run 200 MPH

[Iamtheonlyreal1]

I have a Standing 1 Mile Top Speed Run coming up, and my goals for this Amazon will be the 175-180mph mark in the Standing Mile as a daily driver with all the modern conveniences, amd there are actual top speed obstacles added by the fact the car is a driver, because I am not trying to sacrifices any daily comforts that would typically be removed for a dedicated race car. I am really curious, because I would like to see some pictures of some of the fastest Amazon's that were capable of some sort of prolonged top speed, along with seeing some of the efforts that were made to ensure these cars were capable aerodynamically.

This is a Standing 1 Mile Top Speed.. During this mile your times and speeds are caught at different points of the mile, and the recorded Top Speed you are traveling when you cross the 1 mile mark. I am not worried about being able to hit the mph mark with gearing or power, I am really only concerned with the aerodynamic and weight properties of the car being a factor over 150mph (Which it gets there easily in 4th at this point), because there are potential air flow issues over that. I will say that at the 100mph up, I don't notice the Turbulent air that is common to a lot of car, and can normally be felt and heard with the beating on the side windows along with a bumpy resistance.. I was very surprised on how quiet the air is on this car while it is over 100mph, so I am hoping that translates to less issues to combat on the 1 mile run.. LOL

I am currently running a 3:50 rear gear ratio as a daily, and I am achieving an instant 115mph when shifting out of 3rd gear, but I will be bumping up to a 3:20 or 3:08 rear end ratio, and that should get me up at my goal speed of 175-180mph while taching within my power range. Each of those gear ratio's have their benefits, but I am thinking I would be better off going with the 3.20 ratio to keep the rev's up instead of potential lugging, but it could be the case that the 3.08's might be better due to not needing as much rev's.. These LS motors pull hard all the way to max rev, so I will have to figure out the best shift points when I get there, and luckily there will be a lot of runs for trial and error..


Here is the 3.08 Gearing @ Max Rev

----Ratio--------------------------------MPH

1st 2.87------------------------------59.3

2nd 1.89-----------------------------90.3

3rd 1.28-----------------------------133.4

4th 1.00-----------------------------170.7

5th .82------------------------------208.2


Here is the 3.20 Gearing @ Max Rev

----Ratio--------------------------------MPH

1st 2.87------------------------------57.2

2nd 1.89------------------------------86.9

3rd 1.28-----------------------------128.4

4th 1.00-----------------------------164.3

5th .82------------------------------200.4


Here is the 3.50 Gearing @ Max Rev

----Ratio--------------------------------MPH

1st 2.87------------------------------52.36

2nd 1.89-----------------------------79.51

3rd 1.28-----------------------------117.41

4th 1.00-----------------------------150.28

5th .82------------------------------183.27

If you have any insight as to what the ballpark results have been with any particular car, along with any pictures of the cars that were capable of 130mph plus on something other 1/4 mile drag strip , it would be appreciated. Top Speed on a short 1/8 or 1/4 mile run is way different then a full mile or more, because there are other factors to consider with the prolonged speed over a greater distance, and that is why people have to dedicate their suspension, body, and powertrain setups for each desired race event.


Here is the only reference I can find about an Amazon at Bonneville in 2007, and it doesn't really answer any questions..



I met the owner of this '67 122S several weeks ago, but went back with the camera today.
It ran in G- production on its Bonneville runs. The motor is a .010 over B-20 with 14.7:1 compression, forged ceramic coated Aries(sp?) pistons on Bofor rods. It has Hillborn mechanical fuel injection, forged roller rockers, crank scraper, distributorless ignition(I forgot what kind). The cam was special ground by Ed Iskedarian, who is a personal friend of the owner. It has a M-40 trans with a 4:11 rear end. Supposed to have run 126mph at Bonneville, against a class record of 139mph which has been upped to at least 156mph now. Most of the above was told to me by the owner.

[Iamtheonlyreal1]

Looks awesome in the snow. Love this car. Im going to try what you said about taping off the trim around the rear windows and see how that looks. Ive always felt the same thing. Easy enough to do since my car is black.

Definitely post up the pics of that when you do, because I am pretty damn curious... LOL

[philohlean]

This build is nothing short of inspirational! I love the amazon, and this one is no exception