^^would like to know also
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My RS rebuild.
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Faces and centers got dropped off today, going with a semi-metallic cream. The yellow hue in it is pretty noticeable but I think it will compliment the dark tones of UG pretty well. They'll be back by next Wednesday
Also found out that my fenders are irreparable, but the guy doing my wheels is hooking me up. Two new fenders rolled and painted for under 500 bones.
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Trying to polish my lips but it's not going so well so far. I was trying to avoid using aircraft stripper as I think I am already past the clear, but it's still not looking so hot. I posted this is in the polishing DIY thread, but when sanding for polishing do all of my motions need to be in the same direction? It seemed like I was getting some major imperfections where my hand was changing directions when using 320 grit.
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Originally posted by cardoza View PostTrying to polish my lips but it's not going so well so far. I was trying to avoid using aircraft stripper as I think I am already past the clear, but it's still not looking so hot. I posted this is in the polishing DIY thread, but when sanding for polishing do all of my motions need to be in the same direction? It seemed like I was getting some major imperfections where my hand was changing directions when using 320 grit.
-Dan
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Originally posted by cardoza View PostI posted this is in the polishing DIY thread, but when sanding for polishing do all of my motions need to be in the same direction? It seemed like I was getting some major imperfections where my hand was changing directions when using 320 grit.
As stated above me, the higher grit you use, the more they will disappear. If you've done the stages "right" by the time you get around to using 1000 you should begin to notice a slight shine. (more elbow grease = more shine/longevity)
Typically, i step it up gradually to 2000 grit and finish the job with some nice polish. Use an orbital buffer with a new mitt if you have access to one.
-jonathan
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