I'm going to be the devils advocate here.
Wouldn't machining a metal plate that goes BELOW the shock tower (so the bolts don't rip through the sheet metal) and using bolts rated high enough solve this problem?
Force is redistributed, bolts don't break, problem solved.
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project loud and low (EM2 content)
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i forgot i had an account here.
Just like to say that I (on behalf of the Skylines Australia club) are laughing at you.
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My accord. Less cone area, less watts, much higher voltage, more flex
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9jnq_MCmthw"]2 Sundown SA 12s Flexing a Honda Accord - YouTube[/ame]
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I'm glad I don't live anywhere near either one of you dumbasses. Seriously, how does one justify spending, and I'm just making a wild ass guess here, upwards of $1500-3000 on stereo equipment or wheels and paint and go complete half ass-ghetto-tweeker on the suspension? Do the world a favor and please don't breed.
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This has probably spread around the world 5 times by now. Greetingz from Finland. How did you find his pic, this is starting to be priceless.
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Originally posted by IRegisteredForThisThread View Post
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They're much better ways of getting the car fucking low w/o being ghetto as fck. Don't be a tool and buy nuts from Home Depot and call them "spacers". Learn from other posts/threads and do the research on how to get moar low like ohhbekay did.
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I would like to offer any help you may need for your car. I am a certified Honda/Acura Auto technician. I understand you want a loud stereo & to be grounded. It appears throught the internet that your posts & pics have come under alot of criticism. I have been in the custom scene for many years. What do you ultimately hope to do with the car? How much money do you have set aside for any suspension you would like to have? With that, static drop what you have been trying or adjustable (air/juice-hydraulics)? Why are you cutting up the car to achieve a goal with the current set-up that will not give you your ultimate goal? Honestly if you have a budget issue, I would recommend for you to pull the coils or leave the minimum amount of a cut coil on the stock strut, in the stock location. Rid the strut tower risers & that entire set-up. If you plan on doing anything like that to get low, check other sites with custom cars & people who have hacked up their Civic's to acheive as low as they can go. There is a lot of work to do that, but support of the body & suspension tieing together is the key. If you plan on using the stock locations for suspension, take advantage of that & use the right equipment that bolts into the stock locations. If you want a custom suspension set-up I would highly recommend talking with a local custom shop that can help out. I have owned to many Civic's to know the in's & out's of them, & please for your own safety & safety of others fix your car immediately.Last edited by hondafreak; 02-17-2012, 04:30 PM.
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Originally posted by OpelWagenGT View PostOk I did a little reasearch because I was sceptical but that is the way those plates are suppose to be installed (the produciton ones you just showed above). There are still a few problems. The company that made those obviously has experince with making suspension parts and knows what materials to use and how thick and yada yada yada. All I am saying is that if you're going to go ahead and make something yourself I would stick to a safer route. Even though that production camber plate goes on top that is not a very common thing. Also in that photo those rusty bolts look pretty scary.
Just be carefull man.
-Aron
so you are the guy who posted that blog? and with this post you pretty much have no idea what you are talking about now.
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Originally posted by I am the Machine View PostWhen my children ask about this day....I can point to this comment and say "I was there"...
Never go full retard...everybody knows that.
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