Project Stance: 1965 Chevy C10

[yusoslo]

Thanks guys, I'm going out Monday to finish the little bits, the plan on bringing it home for a few weeks till the paint booth.

[Double Oh]

Awesome Build!!

[LowStandards]

Very nice! I'd love to have an old C10!!

[yusoslo]

stay away from etch!!! I wish I had. It is a good product but has many compatibility issues and adhesion with different paints. I am in a situation where I want to wait a few months to do final paint. If I spray epoxy primer over my 2k high build it has the potential to loose bond since the acid is off gassing in the etching primer. With today's paints go with Epoxy primer DTM direct to metal. It is just more compatible.You can keep spraying it time and time again. So you either choose one etch or epoxy and then that determines the rest of the paint. I am being extra careful some people put epoxy over etch and have no issues, but why risk it. I am putting it under a car cover till its paint time.

[Hatech]

^^ Thanks alot for your thoughts! Hmmm i was thinking clear coat. Sounds like alot of money and work but i know l would enjoy it and use the painting equipment again

I could tell you had put major work in but over a 100 hours on bodywork puts things into perspective. I bet you worked your hands down to the bone!

Will using etch primer instead make a big difference with the finish?

I will impatiently await updates

[yusoslo]

Painting is fun! Body work is not. To do a gloss clearcoat paint you need to have $$ equipment, compressors, guns, clean booth w updraft. If you are doing a satin job then go for it. I am using a $200 gun which is cheap. but for me I am in $600 in materials to strip to bare metal, etch, high build, filler, blocks, sanding paper etc. I am then going to spend $150 more in paint and have a friend with a $1,400 gun and booth along with paying him $400 in labor. I feel that if I dropped it off at a shop the bill would be over 6,000. I have spent a minimum of 100 hours on the body work.

the paint supplier steered me wrong, I wish I would have used epoxy primer instead of etch primer, too late now! M...F...

[Hatech]

Heart attack?!?! So is the copper valve covers good or bad? hopefully good.

As for the seat, great idea on white, if it is thick and coarse it would work. This seat is the closest to what I want but in the factory bench with this leather and vertical stitching.

Haha! Ofcourse i meant good! Its just gets me excited that is all

Yeah man i am feeling that, looks comfy. When you said brown leather i wasn't sure what you had in mind. Whether it would be dark or light etc. I think that style combined with the rest will be nice vibes!

I wanted to ask..... since you are laying down the primer and all that i am guessing you will be also laying down the paint? I am asking because i am planning my first build and obviously wanto do it all, so would it be out of the question doing the paint job myself? ++

[Svenska94Aero]

That seat is gorgeous. Carry on sir.

[yusoslo]

Heart attack?!?! So is the copper valve covers good or bad? hopefully good.

As for the seat, great idea on white, if it is thick and coarse it would work. This seat is the closest to what I want but in the factory bench with this leather and vertical stitching.

[Hatech]

Copper plated valve covers? Hmmm i think i will go now, need to calm down before i have a heart attack.

I think the brown distressed leather bench etc would be simply eye watering with the flat black exterior and the copper. I always thought white stitching on dark brown leather was cool but i know it needs to tie in with your vision.
If your keeping the white bumpers and steering wheel then what are your thoughts on a cream/off white bench and panels?
Anyway whatever you decide im sure it will be good.

[yusoslo]

pm sent w email

[softg]

gotcha on the shift arm, you could hit it with a lettering enamel, when you decide to switch it up get at it with mineral spirits. that definitely won't hurt the chrome. so glad you're doing the valve covers in copper, that will be ridiculous by itself, especially with a matching patina if you stick with that. I did just scroll back to the first shot of the gauge surround and really dig the clean copper as well

the double stitching with thick contrasting color thread on the bench will be the business. what does the factory stitching and bench look like, couldn't find any decent references online or more like can't tell what's original. this is the best example I could find of the baseball interior and I would encourage you to check it out, a bit more involved than just sewing but the effect I think is way cool and in your direction.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4752314-FS-Seats-Audi-TT-Black-Baseball-Glove-Leather-Central-PA

http://forums.kilometermagazine.com/showthread.php?4589102-TT-guy-jumping-over.-Did-the-Beetle-have-a-Baseball-stitch-interior-oprtion

I can definitely do a solidworks rendering but sketching is way more time effective for ideation. if you want to shoot me your email I'll send you some ideas I've got rattling around. also, maybe shoot me photos of some things that you think are important styling cues from the truck, anything you think could be tied in. I love the cowling on these c10's and the overrun on the roof and hood lines. cheers man

[yusoslo]

Thanks softg. What I meant was to vinyl wrap the chrome shift arm so its reversible if I ever change my mind. Maybe Plasti dip? Its the only chrome thing in the interior, but I would **** to paint it black and permanently mess up the nice Lokar finish.. I have contacted a company in South Carolina that can plate my valve covers copper as well.

On the bench, it will be red thick stitching, maybe double stitched but in factory vertical run fashion. I will look into baseball stitching.

Do you do solid works rendering? I do but dont have the program. If you have some spare time I would love to see a hand drawing or anything at all that would illustrate what your thinking as a shift knob.

[softg]

so, I'm glad to hear you figured the direction on the copper, I like the heavy patina for sure.

are you going to run a metal extrusion between the wood in the bed? some thing like that may allow you to really hide the air components. like sliding a center section out with the tailgate down if that makes sense.

I really like the idea of using the bomber brown leather for the bench, will be the business with the distressing. maybe try to match the leather to the stain on the hickory. think about some baseball stitching for sure when it comes time. are you going to add that leather to the shift boot and door panels when it comes time?

I'm with you on the door knob knobs? pretty cool. but I think you should lathe something up that's a bit more fitting, then you can determine shape and size. I can help with that if it's something you're interested in. please no vinyl on this thing though

not as excited for the results I'm sure you are but to watch this take real shape has been a treat

[yusoslo]

Thanks for the constructive criticism. I love everyone saying, wicked build, or bad ass. But I like to be challenged and given criticism!! I am going to match the gauge cluster to the glove box. I was attempting 2 different methods and I like the blue green effect more and both are cleared. I am just trying to get it running. I will work on the fit and finish over the next few months.
The Bed:
It will be 1x4 hickory that is stained a golden color with quick release bolts in the access areas, air tanks/ compressors, battery etc. I think a golden color will look best against the black

The interior:
The door panels will stay for now and go with the worn factory black vinyl seat. Once its painted the door panels and bench will be upholstered in a aged and distressed bomber brown leather

I just saw this online


and this



check out this site!

http://www.hotrodshiftknob.com/servlet/Categories?keyword=bras

maybe I should vinyl matte black wrap the shift lever?
Did I mention the shift boot will be burlap, same as the door panels? With a twine draw string at the top.