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6466, 1.0 a/r divided with the 3 5/8" vband, SP qsv, jet coat EVERYTHING THAT GETS HOT, 4" intercooler. GSC Stage 3 cams for that ESSENTIAL LOPEY IDLE (no car is actually evil if it doesn't have a gnarly idle). ATI damper pulley, dry-sump, l19 head studs, titan billet mains, main studs, carillo rods, custom 10-1 pistons, a1000 fuel pump, fuel sump, -10 feed -6 return, 1000cc injectors, AEM Infinity, AEM water injection system, (I prefer prosport halo gauges personally), ditch that silly r154 (because we know it's going to pop oil seals and crap anyway) for a cd009 from a 350z, and then you'll almost be there.
No but real talk.
If you are serious about making/using real power, the crazy camber's got to go. You'll need traction.
And also I really recommend picking your end goal for RPM now/what head work you want done before you get the bish running. Installing cams you're going to need to set your valve lash, and usually you'll have a machine shop cut the valve ends to fit. This can cost you and would also be the right time to machine the head flat, do any porting etc and make sure you head is done correctly before you buy the turbo. It is easier to save up get a turbo, and just bolt it on down the line when the car is running, than pull the manifolds off, take the head to the shop and wait for them to do it then.
My 2c.
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