Little Low Red Wagon - The other Volvo wagon

[carter]

Mini shoot I did yesterday



Lost a hub cap Gotta find another...







Received a suspicious package today...



Being that these are the most expensive part of the entire build this car, I am now past the point of no return.

In fact I paid $500 for the car...and $750 for the struts.

[volvo=win]

Finally!!!! i've been waiting for that box to show up in your pj thread forever! Can't wait to see it done!!

[carter]

Gonna be a huge pain in the ass I'll tell you that much.

There's no ears on the struts, the strut is part of a cast spindle ffs.

[martinm13]

Gonna be a huge pain in the ass I'll tell you that much.

There's no ears on the struts, the strut is part of a cast spindle ffs.

I think I know what you're talking about but post a pic of the original strut. You need to cut the strut body off so that theres a bit of tube left and then weld the new air strut onto the old tube, just like bmw guys have to do. Check out this thread....

http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20850

[carter]

I think I know what you're talking about but post a pic of the original strut. You need to cut the strut body off so that theres a bit of tube left and then weld the new air strut onto the old tube, just like bmw guys have to do. Check out this thread....

http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=20850

That's gonna help a ton. Thanks man

The hardest part now is finding someone to weld the steel tube to the cast spindle though.

[JVC]

Not sure if this would help but these have been floating around the local Craigslist for a while.

1967 VOLVO HUB CAPS -

http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/pts/2920027560.html

[carter]

Thanks man,

Unfortunately I don't think those will work with my wheels. There's lots locally here, I just need to go pick some up

[martinm13]

That's gonna help a ton. Thanks man

The hardest part now is finding someone to weld the steel tube to the cast spindle though.

I can weld but I only have a MIG setup and I'm pretty sure you need stick to weld cast iron. In the thread I linked before, he was using a MIG. I wouldn't feel confident about it, especially on somebody else's car. Is there any way that you could cut the stock strut off so there was a piece of steel tube left attached to the spindle? That way the airlift strut could be welded to something that wasn't cast.

[Randomofodication]

awesome car! can't believe i missed this build before. I think i've seen your truck in town before.

[carter]

I can weld but I only have a MIG setup and I'm pretty sure you need stick to weld cast iron. In the thread I linked before, he was using a MIG. I wouldn't feel confident about it, especially on somebody else's car. Is there any way that you could cut the stock strut off so there was a piece of steel tube left attached to the spindle? That way the airlift strut could be welded to something that wasn't cast.

You can't weld steel to cast with a MIG. You need to use a tig with nickle filler rod. There's a lot more too it and it's way over my head to be able to do it safely.

[CungChow]

Hey,
Sick car, I am jealous of this entire thing. I just bought a 1983 240 wagon for $400 two days ago. The interior was ridiculously clean, but the exterior is nothing to brag about haha. The plan is to bag it so your build is going to be pretty much my guideline since I am going into college this year and am tight on cash. Keep updating man, I'll keep an eye on this one.

[carter]

Money shot



Well, back from the dead. I'm taking my first year heavy duty schooling finally so I've managed to find a lot of time to work on the car. I also got a new dog and he's been taking up a lot of time as well. Smart little guy though...pictured here, he clearly knows i have way too much wheel gap on my daily driver lol.



Painted the struts up with some graphite grey wheel paint. I chose this because powder coating wasn't going to happen and it's a lot more durable than regular paint. I've used it on wheels and after a year they still looked brilliant.



I bent some more steel line and went to work. With no way to really hide the lines for a clean look I decided making a roll cage inspired design around the shock tower.




Full lift (because I know everyone wants to see that right?)





Doesn't look that low because the front tires are currently hitting the liners. Down sizing tires slightly is in order, as well as removing the liners to make space.

Cross member pic: The huge U bolts the steering rack came with are definitely going to be trimmed ( and could also be hanging me up as well).



Beside my 11' WRX daily. (Jacked up in the rear with the tires removed)



Spent most of today getting rid of these hideous shelves and replace them with a Snap On shelving unit as well as organize both my toolboxes and kind of hit the "reset" button so I can stay sane.



Which brings me to this. Snap On shelves for $160. Why not. Spent 11 hours in the garage cleaning and organizing parts.

[slamburglar]

Hey man,

Ive been following this thread for a long while now. FAWKING LOVE IT!!!! Actually got my lowvo a few months back for $450. Loving it for every second. Running driving 5spd . On to the point lol.l I have bags already from another car that i plan on useing. I see you have a good amount of knowledge with bags. I am planning on putting them on my volvo. The rear bags look almost exactly like yours. Just the base is thicker. will pry shave down for moar low . But my fronts are just like yours but not the universals. Would you be able to lend some help and insight on the fronts. Thats the part that i think will be the hardest. Did you use the stock front tube from the wagon and just inset the universals into it? Cant wait to do mine. but just looking for help before I attack this. Its my DD so ill pry be doing Fronts one day and rears another.

Thanks
Brian

[carter]

Hey man,

Ive been following this thread for a long while now. FAWKING LOVE IT!!!! Actually got my lowvo a few months back for $450. Loving it for every second. Running driving 5spd . On to the point lol.l I have bags already from another car that i plan on useing. I see you have a good amount of knowledge with bags. I am planning on putting them on my volvo. The rear bags look almost exactly like yours. Just the base is thicker. will pry shave down for moar low . But my fronts are just like yours but not the universals. Would you be able to lend some help and insight on the fronts. Thats the part that i think will be the hardest. Did you use the stock front tube from the wagon and just inset the universals into it? Cant wait to do mine. but just looking for help before I attack this. Its my DD so ill pry be doing Fronts one day and rears another.

Thanks
Brian

Thanks man!

First things first - do not mess with shaving the base of the bag. You'll take material away that's needed and the threads will be shortened.

Second - the front bags have a hole in the center of them and came prebuilt basically from Airlift. I'm not sure how you would go about using the stock strut. That's why I went with the universal kit.

Third - Buy a cheap daily driver. With limited experience this can not be done in a day. Take your time and do it right or you'll have problems and not enjoy fixing pain in the ass things that go wrong. My cars been down for the count for almost a year (partially because I'm too busy working but still). I would never have attempted this without a daily driver. This becomes apparently when you get everything together and you're missing one fitting or something stupid like that.

Good luck, it's very rewarding when you're done. Now that ive basically completed it I'm going stir crazy and trying to figure out a new engine set up. Can't decide if I wanted a heavily cammed Mustang 5.0L or a built N/A Volvo 2.3L with webbers and a cam, or to just say fuck it and do a factory turbo set up.

[Belvader]

This is my favorite build i've seen on stance works so far, this volvo is truely fucking awesome ! i give you two thumbs up !