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bmw e30 engine lift???

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  • #16
    take into account your transmission mounts, you will need to rasie that too.
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    http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24326

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    • #17
      i have already explained this in another thread. pictures #1, 3 and 4 are all wrong

      #2 is the only illustration that is correct.

      i have the m20 in my e30 so it did not need to go up very much to clear the sub-frame. the 4 bangers would have to greatly raise it to clear and would be wrong to do so. a few washers are okay but will not clear the m42 and such motor's pan. you will need a custom pan to get a 4 banger low safely




      or swap a m20. if you want MPG's then get the M20b27. i can get 38 mpg and at min 25 everywhere i go. just gotta know how to control your foot
      Last edited by CHIF8008; 08-11-2012, 09:44 PM.
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      • #18
        I just used washers on the mounts Lifted the sump to the same height as the subframe on an M40! (same sump as M42)

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        • #19
          just got a 318is and plan on lowering it and was wondering about how much i would have to raise the motor for the pan to clear, or is there another pan i could swap on there for more clearance? and can the pan be swapped without having to pull the motor? the car needs oil pan gaskets too and i was wondering if i could change those out with the motor in the car? or at least only slightly raised instead of having to pull the whole thing out

          and if i cant put a pan with more clearance on there would a nice skidplate protect it adequately?

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Adam. View Post
            I just used washers on the mounts Lifted the sump to the same height as the subframe on an M40! (same sump as M42)
            any drivetrain vibrations?

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            • #21
              Nope still drives fine I'm planning on M52 swaping it in the near future or selling it and getting an E34 so I wasn't too worried about vibrations or w.e

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              • #22
                with an m42 car you will also run into the issue of your intake hitting the hood, you could run hood spacers or something of the like. im going to raise my engine over my winter break. i have been thinking in my head recently if i raise the engine and trans say 20 to 25mil(around and inch) and install 12mm riser subframe kit jacked the rear subframe up to help drive line alighnment. now i have thought of a few cons
                1. for this to work properly im thinking you would have to raise the center support bearing the same 12mm to keep drive shaft alighnment to the back
                2. shifter clearance with raising the trans
                3. drive shaft tunnel clearance.
                4. hood clearance.
                now to fix problum 1 im thinking just notch it, weld a new piece of steel in and re-thread it. very easy
                2nd problem not as easy to fix, but im actually thinking that won't be an issue, but was just an idea i had run through my head, same with issue 3.
                4 is easy to fix. depending on how high i raise the engine i can 1. just cut the under side bracing out, or just knock a dent in it. the car is very ratty and beat how it is so i am not worried that much lol

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                • #23
                  Has anyone decided the best way to raise the E30 engine and gearbox?

                  I've got a 318is with the m42 which if I remember correctly has the lowest sump out of all the E30 blocks, I would like to bring my front arch gap down an inch or 2 but my oil pan is only about 2.5" above the ground as it is.

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                  • #24
                    stop posting the same response in every thread
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                    • #25
                      Just trying to increase the chances of getting an answer and I found two threads about the same thing, what's up with that?

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by Buck6687 View Post
                        take into account your transmission mounts, you will need to rasie that too.

                        e30s stock from the factory are parallel. It has something to do with getting full movement of the bearings. Stack some washers. Also ditch the stock rubbers as they sag over time.

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                        • #27
                          bump for specs or further info on diy

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                          • #28
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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by 610EURO View Post
                              i machined some nice aluminum spacers to raise my engine. 24v pan = lower then m20 pan. just throw some washers in there. raise it a hakf inch or so. its a good solid number without bieng drastic.
                              how many millimeters were the washers you machined?

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                              • #30
                                From this thread... http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=55326 The guy in the thread bought a shorter steel m42 oil pan, so raising the engine is almost obsolete... I myself have stock pan and have raised the motor ~1/8th inch, which is functionally nothing.

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