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Thread: Turbobrick action, My Volvo with some oz whees.,

  1. #26


    Im back! Or well I havent been gone either just lost my intrest to post up here as photobucket made everyones life hard, but as the photos work again i decided it would be a good time to update my progress here!

    I got the car running at the end of summer and got to drive it for few months, really enjoyed the new bushings and the swaybars made a huge difference in handling! Also bought a recaro spg bucket seat for the car, that made it also abit more enjoyable on the twisty bits.

    Here’s a pic from the final drive that year (2017)

    As you migth remember i bought that 525i well it was parted out during summer and I was left with the m50b25tu engine and zf s5d 310z. Engine is a 2.5 liter ironblock with vanos system and the gearbox is a earlier but as strong model of the famous 5-speed m3 zf 320. The engine was disassembled and inspected and found out to be in really good condition, especially for a 390 000 km driven engine.

    Engine after it was pulled out from the donor car

    Some pictures from the disassembly of the engine.

    Next up i brought the engine to a machine shop for measurement of the cranck and block so that new internals could be ordered.

    As i said earlier the engine was in really good condition, bore was within tolerances and there were also no signs of wear on the cranck either and it also was within factory tolerances. But next up i ordered wiseco pistons in first owersize, h-profile rods, acl racing bearings and bigger diameter 240mm ligthweight crmo flywheel for m5 clutch. Everything was balanced and the bore was drilled to the wiseco specs, also the head surface was machined.

    The block stayed in the machine shop for a very long time and during that i did some other smaller stuff for the project.

    My friend welded a An12 oil return to the cranck case.

    Did a lot of cleaning on the engine parts, but also I did one very interesting project. Carbonfiber sunroof delete plate. I have read alot from making CF parts, and this was something i wanted to give a try myself.

    I started the project by making a mold out of the existing sunroof, I added plastic plates to the surroundings to make it possible to be mounted to the existing sunroof mountings. The mould was started by waxing the sunroof with mould release, then a gelcoat surface was painted on top of that, after that a glassfiber body was made for the mould. I also made some extra structure to make sure it stayed in right shape.

    Mould inner gelcoat surface and outer glassfiber surface.

    The gelcoat surface needed some filler in some points, to make it possible to remove the CF part from the mould, after that it was polished with paint polishing methods and mould release wax was applied to it. After that it was time to apply the CF to the mould.

    I added 4 layers of carbonfiber mat to the mould and added one structural stipe to the middle to make sure it wouldnt flap in higher speed.

    Here’s the final part removed from the mould.

    As the surface wasnt perfect i added another layer of resin on top of the surface and sanded it down so that it was smooth.

    Sanded down part.

    After it was sanded down i added some clear coat to it. It still needs to be buffed but ill do that when its time to install it .

    Thats it for today, but ive got alot still to come!

  2. #27


    Still continuing to wait for the engine to come from the machine shop, so i decided to strip the interior as my intention is to do a full stripped interior with a 6-point rollcage. It's a quite a miracle how much stuff is crammed in a car. I did in total 3 trips to the junkyard to take all the excess parts away.

    Here's some pics from the interiors disassembly and current state.

    Also removed and sold the old b200et lump.

    After this i finally received the engine from the machine shop. Started the build by painting the block black with some heatproof paint.

    After that it was time for the internals. First I gapped the piston rings and gave a good clean to all parts with some brake clean and after that with automatic transmission fluid.

    Piston and rod ready for assembly and the final product.

    After that in went the crankshaft and pistons

    Here you can also see the stressplate for the main bearings that should stiffen the block.

    After that new m50 oil pump and chain. Also added a vital safety feature for the oil pump a motorsport nut.

    Then time for the timingchain and cover.

    Also changed the oilfilter housing to a s54 unit, with oil cooler output and thermostat.

    Usually for these motors the oil sump should be modified from a e36 one to fit Volvo's, but i stumbled on a e39 unit that seemed to be more suitable shape for Volvos. Well it happened to be a straight fit. As the original engine came with front sump i changed also the pick up tube to e39 one and fitted the new sump.

    So now the block is ready and next up will be the cylinder head. but will continue on that later!

  3. #28
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Lancaster, NY


    This is fantastic. Subscribed.

    2001 BMW 560i 6.0 LSx/T56 SOLD

    2000 Corvette Hardtop FRC

  4. #29


    So after the bottom end was finished it was time for the cylinder head. My first thoughts were only to do a basic refurbish on the head, check valves and straigthen the head, but when i brought the head for a local head shop focused in rally and performance car cylinder heads the owner of the comppany had a plan in his mind for my head. So long story short I ended up changing the valve springs to stiffer ppf springs and nonvanos m50 inner springs, re shaping the exhaust ports and valve seats. According to the machinist, with these modifications they have achived 860 whp from a similar m50 engine, so this should be better than enough for me. The last restriction for my purposes are the cams. Im now running m50 nonvanos intake cam on exhaust side and stock intake cam. As the engine is cappable of 8500 rpms, the cams will be the restricting part on power and revs. If i cant get to my power goals i will propably go for some better aftermarket cams, catcams etc.

    Unfortunately i have no pictures of the head either, but next up was to see if the engine would fir in the volvo. I bougth ass(anderson steel & speed) engine mounts and gearbox mount and some polyurethane transmission bushings and went to fit the engine.

    The fitment was spot on, even the oil pan even looked like it was made to fit a 1980’s volvo ��. The trans and engine mounts were top guality!

    After the engine was fitted it was time to fit the intercooler and radiator, i opted for a big aluminium griffins radiator and a 600x300x60 intercooler.

    To mount the i cut every existing mount etc, off the car and decided to make a tube frame, that would act as a support for radiator, oilcooler and intercooler, and also rigid mount for a front splitter to get the old brick a bit more racing inspired look.

    Splitter and coolers in place for testing

    A couple of pictures from the making of the tube structure. It was tig welded by my friend and the final tubes to mount it to car are actually at the moment waiting for tig welding. It was facinating to build this kind of structure as i have never before done anything like it. And also it was quite pleasing to see the final product all welded up.

    Also at the same time i bougth a strut brace kit that was also welded with tig same time as the tube frame.

    Strut brace welded up. My friend was a bit upset about his welds as they werent as pretty as he would have liked, but for me im more about the function than the form and im happy if it looks good enough and does the job well.

    After that did some fitting to the car to see how everything would line up.

    Heres everything fitted in place.

    As for other small bits and details i opted for a irp bmw short sifter, very nice quality and also for aerocatch hood latches.

    Ill have to propablu modify the transtunnel a bit to fit the sifter, but i hope that it will be worth it!

    Also bjought some an fitting fo rthe oil cooler and catch can, and also made a extra an outlet to the valve cover for the catch can.

    Next up i will be making bracing for everything to be fitted to the engine bay, and also im modifying the rear of the car quite a bit as the fuel cell will be fitted to the trunk!

    And also heres a picture of my new daily, a long time dream car of mine Saab 900 16 valve, made in Uusikaupunki Finland ��. Will be only doing small maintenance on this one, polishing the paint and doing some maintenance for the car to make it as good as a stock Saab can be!

    Last edited by Jannes123; 11-21-2018 at 02:30 AM.

  5. #30


    What an awesome project - you do nice work! Looking forward to seeing how that carbon sunroof delete looks trimmed and mounted up. I used to have a mint 850 turbo wagon, and my first car was a Saab, so I'm definitely a fanboy of this thread. Keep it up!

  6. #31


    Top build. Is it going to be a full track car now? as in not road legal any more?

    What is the type of material you used to make the splitter? 10mm MDF? It looks perfect..

  7. #32


    Quote Originally Posted by Buick40 View Post
    What an awesome project - you do nice work! Looking forward to seeing how that carbon sunroof delete looks trimmed and mounted up. I used to have a mint 850 turbo wagon, and my first car was a Saab, so I'm definitely a fanboy of this thread. Keep it up!
    I am also waiting to fit it in, but it will propably be finished when i paint the car so it might take a while! Im also a huge fan boy of Saab's, I used to have a 9-3 big bumper aero, but I had a lot of trouble with it and ended up selling it because I started this project ! I also was searching for a good condition 850 t5r, but ended up buying the 900 as i have always wanted one! It has been great so far and only some small maintenance need to be done!

  8. #33


    Quote Originally Posted by alantw-15 View Post
    Top build. Is it going to be a full track car now? as in not road legal any more?

    What is the type of material you used to make the splitter? 10mm MDF? It looks perfect..
    Im hoping to get it street legal, but as Finland has quite strict laws on modifying cars I have to be careful with the modifications.

    And the splitter is now film plywood for easy fitting, but as i have it in it's final form i'm probably going to make it from plastic or even carbon fiber. Only downside in carbon fiber is that it's quite time consuming and expensive to make a new one if i break it.

  9. #34


    Hello stanceworks community! Its again been a long time since last update, but progress has been made!

    Since last time i have taken some steps forward and then again some steps back. I continued building the panhard bar support and mounted the fuel cell. After I had finished everything up i wasnt satisfied and ended up cutting everything out to have a new better structure for the rear axle.

    Here is the setup before taking everything apart again.

    After the first trial on the panhard setup i decided to ditch it alltogether and build a better watt-link for the rear. I have also hotten more and motre into fabricating stuff, so i decided to pull the plug on some proper welding equipment as the old one was a cheap chinese

    Heres the end result! At this moment i had a bit of a moment thinking if this thing will never be in one piece again, but i carried on!

    I bougth a proper Kemppi welder and also ordered a watt-link setup from a local rally online store.

    First i built this cart for the welder to get some experience on the new welder.

    Then i continued on the car with the watt-link!


    And heres the watt-link mocked up! It mounts up on the back cover of the diff and the basic advantage of using a watt-link against panhard bar is that it holds the back axle allways in the middle. Downside is that theres very little room for the exhaust, so it lookslike that i migth be going with a side exit exhaust, but more on that later on!

    Next up i continued with the splitter support and mounted it to the car, and also made brackets for the intercooler to mount up to the support.

    Mounts for the splitter support.

    And the splitter mounted.

    Bit of a tigth fit! But it fits!

    Next up updated my daily again! And to a Saab ofcourse 😁

    Also bougth a turbo. Borgwarner 363 sx-e, should be good for round 600whp 🔥

    And of course i had to fit it in straigth up!

    And to end this post got some new rubber mounted today!

    Next up will be rollcage and wider rear arches for the thicker wheels!

  10. #35
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Sofia, Bulgaria


    Oh my god ... this is just brilliant.
    Good work! Need to see this ripping on a track
    "You could roll an E30 in a BMW showroom today and people would think:
    Well, they finally got the 1 series right!"

    3.0 L e30 ground up build

  11. #36
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Temecula, CA


    holy shit this thing is fucking rad! cant wait for some more updates.

    Instagram: @half_lung

  12. #37
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    N.Ireland (Norn Iron)


    Fabrication work at its absolute finest, ive the non vanos engine in my E36 compact, would love to bolt a big turbo onto it, not as easy with the steering column on the right though!!! lol
    My BMW E36 318ti Steel Blue Compact build thread -

  13. #38


    Love the build but half of the pics from the last post don't show

    FB: @DumbassCarCrew - IG: @fruttolo_dumbasscrew

  14. #39



    It seems that updating this thread is starting to get more annually, but at least I have stuff to write about

    A lot of stuff has happened since my last update and the car is slowly getting forward. As i earlier said next up was the rollcage. This is something i pondered for a while if i should do it my self or if i should pay some one to do it for me. I asked couple professional cage shops for quotations and it was either too expensive for me, or the quality was not good enough. And as i say quality i wasn looking for a tig welded 10-point cage at this point. Only a basic mig welded cage that will keep me safe if i happen to crash or so.

    As i looked into my options one professional shop asked if i have proper welding equipment and if i can do some fabrication. The convinced me to have a try my self and said that they can give some advice if needed. So first up i ordered pre bent main hoop and front bars and some straigth roll cage pipe from a local shop. Also bougth a rollcage drilling jig for easier pipe fitting.

    After some research i gave it a try. First up was the main hoop.

    Lifted it on some boxes for a trial fit, and to my amazement the fitment was great straigth a way. As i mounted my seat i noticed that the main hoop has to be brought quite back so made some new boxes and had a new trial fitting.

    Then i went on and fitted new pipes one by one

    Tacked the front tubes, roof diagonals and main hoop diagonals in place. Then i drilled some holes to the floor and dropped the cage through so i could weld the pipes all around

    I really enjoyed making the cage and well as usual things escalated quickly and Some more pipes went in what i had originally planned.

    Full door bars and wrc pipes, and ofcourse some taco gussets

    Also mounted the roll cage ro b-pilar and front suspension top mounts

    After that it was time to make the rear tubes. First made the rear tubes and diagonals, then added some additional pipes to connect the main hoop lower end and the rear mounts.

    At this point i also realised that propably should have closed the wall between boot and driver earlier. So i welded the wall shut

    bought a bead roller to make the inserts

    After that i thought that the cage was ready, but i decided that as the front top mounts are connected to the cage ill add some additional bracing to the frame rails as the rear shocks are mounted to them

    So thats the cage done. But thats not all will make a part 2 in becoming days from the other body modifications!

  15. #40
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Seattle WA


    That is some amazing work.

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