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Operation Dirty Penny - '75 Merc 240D

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  • #16
    Originally posted by mikey G View Post
    Interesting! I know you touched on it already, but why the wet sand? What were your plans from the beginning, bare metal/ brushed look over the whole car?
    So many plans were tossed around. I originally wanted to do a high gloss black paint because that's what I think when I think Mercedes. It changed to a raw finish, but with a touch that let's say hasn't been done before.

    Either way, when I started sanding it out and seeing how much it had that avionic look to it, I knew that's what I wanted. Now just to figure out how to keep this thing from rusting with out clear coating it. I have an addiction to metals and the color grey. I work for an aerospace manufacturer so much of my inspiration comes from there.



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    • #17
      Originally posted by chucky332 View Post
      He said an avionic look, so I'm imagining like a roughened up old fighter plane with the bare metal/bullet holes/shark teeth/etc. idk if that's where he's going, just an opinion.

      Should be killer.
      As much as I love all the aspects of the typical avionic look builds, I'd like to keep it unique. No shark teeth, no bullet holes (unless they're real). Its a german car too, so I don't want to derive the concept too much off an american WW2 style. Although we all know the alternative wouldn't be so acceptable.



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      • #18
        oh i missed this thread it seems

        looking forward to more
        Floccinaucinihilipilification

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        • #19
          Originally posted by dineno View Post
          So many plans were tossed around. I originally wanted to do a high gloss black paint because that's what I think when I think Mercedes. It changed to a raw finish, but with a touch that let's say hasn't been done before.

          Either way, when I started sanding it out and seeing how much it had that avionic look to it, I knew that's what I wanted. Now just to figure out how to keep this thing from rusting with out clear coating it. I have an addiction to metals and the color grey. I work for an aerospace manufacturer so much of my inspiration comes from there.
          Probably going to have to clear it. I remember hearing about someone trying to keep the raw metal from rusting by putting on some sort of inhibitor (not sure right now what it was, I'll check) but it required frequently reapplying the stuff to avoid rust. Maybe a satin clear? What are your apprehensions with clear-coating it?

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          • #20
            Originally posted by MercTastic View Post
            Probably going to have to clear it. I remember hearing about someone trying to keep the raw metal from rusting by putting on some sort of inhibitor (not sure right now what it was, I'll check) but it required frequently reapplying the stuff to avoid rust. Maybe a satin clear? What are your apprehensions with clear-coating it?
            I have a list of a few different options I'm currently testing to see which one works best under harsh outdoor conditions. I don't mind having to reapply it, but would prefer to only have to do so at the most on a monthly basis. So far this is my list of options:

            - Wax (probably won't work for more than 1 day exposed to rain)
            - Penetrol (usually used as a paint additive, but can be applied itself to seal the body pretty well)
            - Used Oil/Diesel Fuel (an obvious one, but would like to avoid)



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            • #21
              Originally posted by dineno View Post
              I have a list of a few different options I'm currently testing to see which one works best under harsh outdoor conditions. I don't mind having to reapply it, but would prefer to only have to do so at the most on a monthly basis. So far this is my list of options:

              - Wax (probably won't work for more than 1 day exposed to rain)
              - Penetrol (usually used as a paint additive, but can be applied itself to seal the body pretty well)
              - Used Oil/Diesel Fuel (an obvious one, but would like to avoid)
              Peep this stuff http://www.getgibbs.com/learn-gibbs-tips/ now I have no clue what it costs but I've seen someone use it, (this gentleman http://talk.classicparts.com/showthr...t=13928&page=5 scroll down to mid-page-Post:74) on his bare metal bedsides and it worked well for the 7 months he had it. Keep in mind this is just one case and pretty sure the guy kept his parts garaged. Something to look into though.

              More Info: http://www.roadsters.com/gibbs/
              Last edited by MercTastic; 10-28-2014, 03:23 PM. Reason: more info

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              • #22
                Btw I look at that last picture on your first post for a solid 30 seconds everytime I come here lol

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                • #23
                  im interested to see where you take this. I just bought a w115 this spring and man was it filled with an epic amount of bondo (body filler).

                  is yours riding static on cut springs?


                  Build thread ------> http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1186733#post1186733

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by MercTastic View Post
                    Peep this stuff http://www.getgibbs.com/learn-gibbs-tips/ now I have no clue what it costs but I've seen someone use it, (this gentleman http://talk.classicparts.com/showthr...t=13928&page=5 scroll down to mid-page-Post:74) on his bare metal bedsides and it worked well for the 7 months he had it. Keep in mind this is just one case and pretty sure the guy kept his parts garaged. Something to look into though.

                    More Info: http://www.roadsters.com/gibbs/
                    I might have to give that stuff a try too, given the cost is reasonable. Thanks for the link!

                    Originally posted by MercTastic View Post
                    Btw I look at that last picture on your first post for a solid 30 seconds everytime I come here lol
                    As do I sir, like I said the rough raw body wasn't even the intended look until I started wet sanding and fell in love with it.

                    Originally posted by crxmarc View Post
                    im interested to see where you take this. I just bought a w115 this spring and man was it filled with an epic amount of bondo (body filler).

                    is yours riding static on cut springs?
                    The only bondo I found on mine was in a small section that had been used to cover up a crack in the front fender. As far as the rest of the car goes theres only rust in the rear in the lower 1-2" of the quarter panels.

                    And yes, it's static for now. Probably going to bag it eventually, but not sure.



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                    • #25
                      I can attest that clear would not do what you're looking for anyway. There used to be a dude with a Matrix in Seattle that had flames on his car that were raw metal - it looked amazing, until it started to rust under the paint. Apparently since so much steel is recycled these days, there are small particles of iron oxide imbedded in any steel sheet, which are just waiting for a little water vapor to activate. This may be less of an issue on a 40-year-old car than a brand new tinfoil shitbox, but I'd still be worried since if it were an issue, it'd be a mess to clean up.

                      In architecture school, we used to preserve raw steel using linseed oil or motor oil. Linseed in particular will darken the appearance of the surface until it eventually washes away. The problem with oil as a protectant is that it is 1. gross, 2. will stain anything that rubs against it, and 3. attracts dust and grime like you cannot believe. It works well for a stationary object that no one is going to touch, but I wouldn't want to use it on a car.

                      I've not used Penetrol to preserve metals myself, but it certainly comes up a lot, and that would be the direction I think I'd try first.

                      Tuned in for more of this awesomeness...
                      Last edited by Oh Damn, it's Sam; 10-28-2014, 04:31 PM.



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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by Oh Damn, it's Sam View Post
                        I can attest that clear would not do what you're looking for anyway. There used to be a dude with a Matrix in Seattle that had flames on his car that were raw metal - it looked amazing, until it started to rust under the paint. Apparently since so much steel is recycled these days, there are small particles of iron oxide imbedded in any steel sheet, which are just waiting for a little water vapor to activate. This may be less of an issue on a 40-year-old car than a brand new tinfoil shitbox, but I'd still be worried since if it were an issue, it'd be a mess to clean up.

                        In architecture school, we used to preserve raw steel using linseed oil or motor oil. Linseed in particular will darken the appearance of the surface until it eventually washes away. The problem with oil as a protectant is that it is 1. gross, 2. will stain anything that rubs against it, and 3. attracts dust and grime like you cannot believe. It works well for a stationary object that no one is going to touch, but I wouldn't want to use it on a car.

                        I've not used Penetrol to preserve metals myself, but it certainly comes up a lot, and that would be the direction I think I'd try first.

                        Tuned in for more of this awesomeness...
                        I'd certainly like to try avoiding anything like oil for too many reasons including the ones you've mentioned. Its starting to sound more like penetrol will be my best bet



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                        • #27
                          My buddy has a bare metal miata and he just goes over it with a scotch brite pad about once a month. It's garage kept though so that makes a big difference.

                          IG: ashtonlafleur

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by aLaFleur View Post
                            My buddy has a bare metal miata and he just goes over it with a scotch brite pad about once a month. It's garage kept though so that makes a big difference.
                            I wish I had a garage, it'll be another few months before I can store it indoors. Either way though I'll be driving this thing a lot.

                            You have any more pics of that miata btw? lol



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                            • #29
                              Went out to continue sanding yesterday, started pouring rain, kept sanding anyway. Who knew wet sanding in the rain was so convenient lol




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                              • #30
                                Going to look at this shop tomorrow, 1,900 sq ft and only $700/mo, about a mile from my apartment. Should help move this project along quicker and more efficiently. It's getting tiring wet sanding this in the dark and with the weather getting colder its sucking more and more.




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