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  • #61
    Originally posted by EasySpeed*Inc View Post
    Yes argon will weld aluminum just fine, just curious but when you are starting your initial puddle are you starting at the very edge of the piece?
    No, I'm starting a ways in because the edges just melt away.

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    • #62
      ok good I was going to mention that aluminium edges are tricky to start on but nevermind

      I do have a tip for you though(this goes for most of any tig welding) when you are starting your arc ease the pedal slowly until you start to see the puddle form on both edges(you want the puddle to form relativley quickly otherwise you will heat soak the material) this slow start also preheats the material making the puddle form more naturally, also when coming to a stop ease off the pedal just the same as you started.

      important, make sure your peice isnt sitting flat on your welding table, it needs a gap between the table otherwise the table becomes a massive heatsink
      Last edited by EasySpeed*Inc; 03-03-2014, 09:04 PM.
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      • #63
        The oxide layer on aluminum melts at a much higher temp than the base metal, that's why it's hard to start a puddle. I like to brush it with a stainless steel brush vigorously and wipe it down with acetone right before I weld it.

        For the tungsten grind you'll want to use a wheel only for tungsten electrodes and grind on the face of the wheel. If you use the side, the tip of the tungsten will have grind marks swirling around horizontally. That spreads out the arc and makes it more erratic. If you grind on the face of the wheel the grind marks would look parallel to the length of the tungsten. The arc follows the grind marks so it should be able to aim the arc where you need it to go.

        P.S. I think it would be clearer if the first post was edited to say: AC for aluminum and DC Electrode Negative (DC-) for steel.

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        • #64
          Originally posted by EasySpeed*Inc View Post
          ok good I was going to mention that aluminium edges are tricky to start on but nevermind

          I do have a tip for you though(this goes for most of any tig welding) when you are starting your arc ease the pedal slowly until you start to see the puddle form on both edges(you want the puddle to form relativley quickly otherwise you will heat soak the material) this slow start also preheats the material making the puddle form more naturally, also when coming to a stop ease off the pedal just the same as you started.

          important, make sure your peice isnt sitting flat on your welding table, it needs a gap between the table otherwise the table becomes a massive heatsink
          My piece has been sitting flat on the table. I'll remember to not do that. I'll also do the pedal trick. I've kinda just been mashing it. Thank you!


          Originally posted by ench View Post
          The oxide layer on aluminum melts at a much higher temp than the base metal, that's why it's hard to start a puddle. I like to brush it with a stainless steel brush vigorously and wipe it down with acetone right before I weld it.

          For the tungsten grind you'll want to use a wheel only for tungsten electrodes and grind on the face of the wheel. If you use the side, the tip of the tungsten will have grind marks swirling around horizontally. That spreads out the arc and makes it more erratic. If you grind on the face of the wheel the grind marks would look parallel to the length of the tungsten. The arc follows the grind marks so it should be able to aim the arc where you need it to go.

          P.S. I think it would be clearer if the first post was edited to say: AC for aluminum and DC Electrode Negative (DC-) for steel.
          Right. I'll buy a new stone for the grinder as soon as I can and mark it for only tungsten grinding use.

          Thank you, you're right. I'll edit that as soon as I'm back on a computer.
          Last edited by M.Doban; 03-04-2014, 12:33 PM.

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          • #65
            What do you guys use to grind down and smooth out nasty welds in tight corners? Its hard to see but i want to make it look a little nicer where the perch is welded to the housing, ran out of argon for while finishing it up lol

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            • #66
              I would grind all that off and start over, but cut off wheels, flap discs, and roloc pads are mostly what I use in regards to metal cutting abrasives.

              For general cleaning I always use wire wheels and acetone.

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              • #67
                Originally posted by M.Doban View Post
                Thanks! I should know your name by now. Maybe you've told me and I forget. That's most likely the case. Anyway, what's your name?

                p.s. I've loved your avatar for years now and I'm just now telling you. I love your avatar. That movie...

                I believe the welder is indeed set to AC but a double check can never hurt. My tank is 100% Argon. Is it still possible to weld aluminum with that?
                It's Shea.
                That's funny because I've always been really jealous of your avatar..

                Originally posted by M.Doban View Post
                My piece has been sitting flat on the table. I'll remember to not do that. I'll also do the pedal trick. I've kinda just been mashing it. Thank you!




                Right. I'll buy a new stone for the grinder as soon as I can and mark it for only tungsten grinding use.
                It'll be much easier to burn through the aluminum when it's not flat on a table.

                A fresh stone can help you perfect a weld, but it's not really necessary.
                Honestly, everybody at my work just uses the angle grinder that's always laying around because it's the fastest way. Most of the time it's covered in aluminum and it still doesn't contaminate the tungsten enough to effect the welds.

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                • #68
                  Originally posted by SheaMoose View Post
                  It's Shea.
                  That's funny because I've always been really jealous of your avatar..
                  Ha! Way cool.

                  Originally posted by SheaMoose View Post
                  It'll be much easier to burn through the aluminum when it's not flat on a table.

                  A fresh stone can help you perfect a weld, but it's not really necessary.
                  Honestly, everybody at my work just uses the angle grinder that's always laying around because it's the fastest way. Most of the time it's covered in aluminum and it still doesn't contaminate the tungsten enough to effect the welds.
                  Alright, thanks. I think I'll get a new stone and try both methods for the heck of it.

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                  • #69

                    helped my buddy build these over reading week. still unfinished, gonna smooth them out soon but yeah. pretty cool for our first go at making tubs



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                    • #70
                      Originally posted by Devocat View Post
                      helped my buddy build these over reading week. still unfinished, gonna smooth them out soon but yeah. pretty cool for our first go at making tubs
                      In case you missed it:

                      Originally posted by M.Doban View Post
                      To be clear, THIS IS NOT A "LOOK AT WHAT I MADE" THREAD. Only post pictures if 1) requested, 2) you want to show people what you're up against, 3) welds that don't look as pretty as you'd like and you seek advice or 4) you used someone's advice and want to thank them by showing the improvement. No judging! We all start somewhere.

                      This post will be continually updated as more information is posted
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                      We all love to turn heads. Sub-consciously we're all materialistic attention-craving dickheads.

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                      • #71
                        Originally posted by vwgti16vt View Post
                        Here's a few pics of my latest C notch. It was on a mk4 gti. Pretty standard other then I tig everything now that i have my thermal arc 186.
                        Really nice job, I just notched my buddies MK4 and it was a bitch. Especially getting to the backside. Do you remove the subframe so you have more access to the backside? I can't even imagine getting a TIG torch and filler rod comfortably back there while working the pedal.


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                        • #72
                          This is a wonderful thread.

                          I learned to weld back in college and I really miss it. Did a lot of thin steel back in my autobody days and did some exhaust work for a friend at one point. Once I have my own garage a 110v MIG will be one of the first things I buy for it.

                          Great info in here guys.




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                          • #73
                            Had my first attempt at overhead welding yesterday. Turned out plenty strong, but all around pretty ugly. Any tips/suggestions for next time?




                            Work also picked this thing up. Miller shopmate 300, can do mig, TIG and stick. I'm possibly looking at buying my own TIG stuff so I can start learning. What am I looking at equipment and money wise for a basic TIG setup.

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                            • #74
                              For welding upside-down, try to keep the torch as level to the ground as possible (not perpendicular to the metal). Turning the wire speed down as low as possible helps. You can also use the one-tack-at-a-time method so as to not have the bead drip. That's usually what I do. Either way, it's really difficult.

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                              • #75
                                I don't even want to imagine what would happen if the bead dropped on you while welding overhead. I've had a bit of splatter land in my shoe once, that was bad enough!

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