nice! im going Accurair E-level, just waiting for it now still need to make a thread. What did you end up trimming the backets down to?
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mint setup man, im running 18s on my w124 aswell, ive had a good gease at the builds on here . I see e36 struts on the front and saab 9000 or something on the rear? do you have/know any more details about how to do this?also are you going to attempt to do it. and what year e36 strut? the hole shock from bmw is it a bolt off bolt on swap over into the w124 in the front?
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Apologies for the terribly slow responses everyone! Grad school and all. I do have a little good news for y'all. But first:
Originally posted by Chigga View PostDo you know what size is the screws for the center caps? I've been trying to source the secure screws for my MAE centercaps and can't find out what size or what fits.
Originally posted by HILLTOPHOODZ View Postmint setup man, im running 18s on my w124 aswell, ive had a good gease at the builds on here . I see e36 struts on the front and saab 9000 or something on the rear? do you have/know any more details about how to do this?also are you going to attempt to do it. and what year e36 strut? the hole shock from bmw is it a bolt off bolt on swap over into the w124 in the front?
Originally posted by Ey3dol View Postnice! im going Accurair E-level, just waiting for it now still need to make a thread. What did you end up trimming the backets down to?
I finally finished up the front install this morning, so I've got some measurements for everyone!
On the rear, I trimmed both the upper and lower brackets down by about 3/4" and installed them without the rubber isolator at top. The way the spring pockets in the LCAs are formed, this will kick the mounts in at just enough angle that the bag will clear the shock, though it is extremely tight.
The front is more complicated, as the LCAs aren't mirror images of each other, and they are formed with a spiral stamping to fit the spring, which makes mounting a little more complicated. On the driver's side, I cut the lower mount in a spiral to fit the spring spiral on the LCA, though I cut it in a steeper spiral to slant the mount inwards. The spiral is cut at 1 1/4" per rotation. Here's a pic to illustrate what's going on:
The right is a different story, due to how the spring spiral stamping is placed on the LCA. Here I simply trimmed the lower mount by approximately 5/8" to make it the same overall height off the surface of the LCA when mounted. Due to how the spring pocket spiral thing is formed on the right LCA, this will kick the mount in at about the same angle as the left side. Kinda weird that it's not symmetrical, but that's Mercedes for you. On both sides, the upper mount went untrimmed.
On the rear, both the upper and lower mounts simply float in their spring pockets, which seems to work great, especially since I can't drive without a little pressure in the bags due to fenders running into tires. The front upper mounts similarly float in their pockets. The front lowers, however, due to the lack of deep spring pockets on the LCAs, needs to be captured by something. To that effect, I had a 3/8" nut welded center on the lower mount plate. I could have used the center threaded hole in the SS-5 bag, but I believe these are aluminum threads, and I don't trust those for shit. Into the nut is threaded a 6" piece of all-thread, Locktited and jammed in place with another nut. Please excuse my horrible mess of a backyard:
Here's where what I've been calling the "sandwich plates" come in. These are simply a 6" square piece of 1/4" plate with a 1" x 2" piece of pipe welded at center. I punched a 3/8" hole through the plate and trimmed the plate down to fit cleanly under the LCA:
The pipe then fits through the spring compressor hole in the bottom of the LCA, keeping the sandwich plate (and what it's attached to) located. The all-thread slips through the hole in the plate, and it's captured in place with a copiously-Locktited nut like so:
I'm going to leave that little bit of thread hanging down, since it's useful for getting the sandwich plate sucked up to the control arm. Here's how everybody looks mounted up:
If you look closely, you'll notice the mysteriously missing plastic arm on the AccuAir height sensor. That's kinda my fault . Where I've got the sensors mounted currently, the inner lip on my wheels rubs the sensor arm at full lock, which I managed not to notice until the wheel basically cut the arm in half. Luckily, new plastic arms are all of $15 from BagRiders, so I've got some replacements on the way. As soon as they arrive I will mount the sensors somewhere out of harm's way, probably further forward on the little sheet metal brackets that the sway bar bushings live on. Until then, I basically have two settings: all up or aired out, which is why I don't have pics yet.
More soon!Last edited by Oh Damn, it's Sam; 04-28-2014, 03:33 PM.
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Originally posted by REVOofRustler View PostI'm loving the build man; especially the audio portion! I've got a Fi Q12 as well in my truck running off a Crescendo BC2000d and I love the thing!
In spite of the fact that the car is absolutely filthy from sitting outside all winter, I thought you all deserved a pic or two of how it's sitting at the moment. I think the front is being limited by a combination of the fenders and the front shocks, which ought to be cleared up a dose of AMG fender spacers and R129 top mounts:
And the whole package for the time being:
I know it's a little hard to tell with the terrible photo on my equally-terrible gravel parking pad, but that should give you all an idea where we're at. Right now, the rockers are level to the ground, but I think I want to bring the rear up just a hair to make it look more level. If I do that, I can space the rear wheels out by 15mm or so to make the lip of the wheels flush with the outside edge of the fender, like the front. I certainly welcome any thoughts you all have on how to get it sitting just perfect.
Right now, though it can't really drive and it's not sitting perfect, it still feels so good to have the hard part of the build done. I can't thank you all enough for your kind words and comments so far during the build. Nice pics will be coming soon to reward you all for your patience
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dam that looks awesome, drop the front a little and raise the rear just a tad, and you will be perfect. If you are having strut length issues you can run e36 struts (like you said above) in the front, and old ford falcon front shocks in the rear.
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Originally posted by skiierman View Postdam that looks awesome, drop the front a little and raise the rear just a tad, and you will be perfect. If you are having strut length issues you can run e36 struts (like you said above) in the front, and old ford falcon front shocks in the rear.
I also brought the rear up by 1/2" to even up the fender gap front to rear:
I'm very happy with how the front is sitting in terms of wheel offset, but it's clear the rear needs 15mm or so of spacers.
I took the beast on its first drive on the finalized air ride system today, and I have to say, I am exceptionally pleased with it. It drives beautifully - nice and soft like stock closer to factory ride height, and stiffening up perceptibly as the ride height is lowered. No scary noises whatsoever, and the handling remains predictable and safe-feeling. I could probably use ever-so-slightly more damping out of the shocks, but the stockers are pretty stiff as-is, and it's not bouncy even run low.
It feels just completely crazy that I've got the air ride done. 261 days of halting workLast edited by Oh Damn, it's Sam; 03-07-2014, 10:27 AM.
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Looks amazing! Get some rear spacers on there and it will be perfect.BMW E34 V8 - Daily
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Looks awesome!-Christian.
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