Random Thread V2.0

[andybob]

I might pull apart my BBS LMs and polish the lips, I recon that might get them selling faster

It's such a bitch though and you can't half ass it.

After the second wheel I had about enough.

[180roman]

well i already sanded down all the clear coat when i flipped them for reverse mount faces

i just need to do some more sanding to remove some oxidization snail trails from where the face used to mount as I was in a rush and didn't get rid of all the problem areas

[andybob]

well i already sanded down all the clear coat when i flipped them for reverse mount faces

i just need to do some more sanding to remove some oxidization snail trails from where the face used to mount as I was in a rush and didn't get rid of all the problem areas

do it

[180roman]

It's such a bitch though and you can't half ass it.

After the second wheel I had about enough.

my most recent polishing job, so you could say I know exactly how much of a bitch it will be

[180roman]

do it

I'll probably have to wear gloves when assembling the wheels so I don't leave my dirty finger prints all over them

[andybob]

my most recent polishing job, so you could say I know exactly how much of a bitch it will be

[IMG]http://sphotos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/893259_10151384148571378_1644666656_o.jpg[IMG]

Yeah, I was just saying.

I also didn't take the faces off my wheels last year, I taped the faces up and did it that way. Should go a bit faster this year with taking the faces off. I won't waste time trying to get into the nooks and crannys.

When it comes to putting the faces back on, should I locktite the nuts? Also, should I torque them or just make them good and snug? I'm a noob, never taken wheels apart so thought I'd ask.

[MommysLittleMonster]

>Be American

Yeah, pretty much what I did last year minus the steel wool.

I'm actually going to start at 400 and go from there...400,600,800,1000,1500,and then 2000. Also need to get some buffing compound that cuts a little better than the stuff I used last year. I've read it works out better if you sand up to 1000 then use heavier compounds to finish it out. I'm going to experiment to find out what's best.

Reason I'm starting at 400 is there is clear on the lips and I fucked my rear 2 lips last year from hitting big bumps (wheels hit the quarters). Hopefully this year since I am spacing them out a little more the quarters will hit the tires and not the wheels. I sure as hell ain't rasing it.

Do yourself a favor: buy a can of aircraft stripper and strip the clearcoat before you sand. It will save you a fucking ton of time.

[MommysLittleMonster]

Yeah, I was just saying.

I also didn't take the faces off my wheels last year, I taped the faces up and did it that way. Should go a bit faster this year with taking the faces off. I won't waste time trying to get into the nooks and crannys.

When it comes to putting the faces back on, should I locktite the nuts? Also, should I torque them or just make them good and snug? I'm a noob, never taken wheels apart so thought I'd ask.

Loctite isn't needed if you have locknuts, but some blue Loctite is never a bad idea. Always torque them- I forgot what I tightened mine to. 50ft-lbs?

[Khalil]

Hahaha Roman

[andybob]

Do yourself a favor: buy a can of aircraft stripper and strip the clearcoat before you sand. It will save you a fucking ton of time.

I'll look for some today when I go out to get sand paper. Hopefully one of the stores around here will have some.

Actually today I think I'll take the faces off since the barells are welded. I'll pull the valve stem cores to let the air out. That way tomorrow I can strip the clear on them and get to work.

[180roman]

Yeah, I was just saying.

I also didn't take the faces off my wheels last year, I taped the faces up and did it that way. Should go a bit faster this year with taking the faces off. I won't waste time trying to get into the nooks and crannys.

When it comes to putting the faces back on, should I locktite the nuts? Also, should I torque them or just make them good and snug? I'm a noob, never taken wheels apart so thought I'd ask.

I don't locktite any of them and never had a problem with them coming loose

I torque bolts to 20ft-lbs

My old set of Equips was rebuilt by a noob and all the bolts were literally hand tightened and i tracked and streeted those wheels and they never leaked or lost any of the nuts

[andybob]

Loctite isn't needed if you have locknuts, but some blue Loctite is never a bad idea. Always torque them- I forgot what I tightened mine to. 50ft-lbs?

I think for peace of mind I'll do locktite and torque them to 50 ft lbs. Can never be too safe when it comes to wheels.

Last year when I did my lug studs I even red locktited the studs before pressing them into the hubs just to be safe.

[andybob]

I don't locktite any of them and never had a problem with them coming loose

I torque bolts to 20ft-lbs

My old set of Equips was rebuilt by a noob and all the bolts were literally hand tightened and i tracked and streeted those wheels and they never leaked or lost any of the nuts

I think my torque wrench only goes down to 35 ft lbs. I only have a 1/2" torque wrench though.

[180roman]

Be careful as you might snap bolts are 50ft-lbs, I've heard people snapping bolts, so i'm real cautious if i do not have spares

[kbuss]

I just found out my brother was at a party lastnight that got busted by the cops. He ended up hiding on the roof and managed to stay there for 3hrs in mid 30º weather until the police left. I've taught him well.