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Thread: Simple M3

  1. #101

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    Quote Originally Posted by hinrichs View Post
    Whats your rear alignment?
    Whoops, sorry for the lag. Since I didnít have anything specific in mind, they just set my rear alignment to OEM specs. I am very open to suggestions as to what would be a better setup.

    M50 Manifold

    I had pretty much decided I was not going to do an M50 manifold since I planned on swapping the car later. But my oil separator failed, and my big hands donít fit well under the manifold. I figured it was probably easiest if I removed it and checked the state of all the hoses anyways, and if the M52 manifold was coming off, then an M50 one was going back on. Even though I plan to swap the car, might as well pick up some free power in the interim.










    I also did an ASC delete while I was in there. Ordered the Bimmerworld boot to make things go easier, though to be honest Iím not totally thrilled with the fitment. It seems to be a hair too long. BW does seem to mention that you may need to cut it down, but that kind of sucks for the cost. I guess Iím just lazy, but I also donít feel like I can safely trim it haha.

    Fired the car up last night, everything seems happy and it idles smooth. Not a particularly difficult swap, and itís been done a million times over, so nothing exciting either. At this point Iím looking at an RKtunes tune for the car. Partly to accommodate the new intake setup, but also to delete the SAP coding. Iíve had a permanent CEL because of my failed SAP. So Iíd very much like to get rid of that, and maybe pick up a few horse puppies during the process.

    Beyond that, Iím really getting down to a short list of what all needs doing. Interior needs some addressing soon, paint obviously, but otherwise the car is getting pretty close to well sorted.

  2. #102

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    Cut to Size

    Remember how I said the Bimmerworld boot was too big? It was. Hilariously so. They say ďIt may need to be cutĒ as if itís going to be close. It was 30mm too long. So I started chopping.








    For anyone who stumbles across this thread searching for information on cutting down a Bimmerworld silicone ASC delete boot, itís really not that hard. Mock everything up in car, mark where the cuts need to be (be aware that itís not at the ends of the MAF, but at the lip where it seals), get some sort of ruler/straight edge, make marks all around the boot equally from the base, use tape to create a ďno noĒ zone, use razor blades and scissors to cut. Take. Your. Time. Itís super frustrating to work with and trim.


    End result is a boot that actually fits. Test drove the car some, seems to like the M50 maifold and the new oil separator seems to have mostly solved my puking oil under load issue. So weíll call that two wins.

  3. #103
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    Oh yeah cutting the intake is just so much fun. Glad to see you got the M50 on without much trouble. I think I have pulled mine about 8-10 times now for other issues and you get kinda good at it lol. I need to find my alignment specs but I think its -3 camber front, 0 toe, -2.5 rear and 1/8 total toe in. Its whatever the m3forum says to run lol
    Insta Mintyhinrichs

  4. #104

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    Quote Originally Posted by hinrichs View Post
    Oh yeah cutting the intake is just so much fun. Glad to see you got the M50 on without much trouble. I think I have pulled mine about 8-10 times now for other issues and you get kinda good at it lol. I need to find my alignment specs but I think its -3 camber front, 0 toe, -2.5 rear and 1/8 total toe in. Its whatever the m3forum says to run lol
    Not quite the same car but I run -3į front, -0.04į toe out, -2.5į rear, +0.05į toe in. Makes for a really predictable car, and saves up tyres. I mostly drive twisties and my tyre wear is perfect. Rear end is "kinda loose" as in real happy to walk out of tight turns sideways but never snappy like it wants to spin, slides a bit but still mantains direction and speed. I trail brake tho so that also matters. Also my antisquat is fucked up big time due to being too low I had it at 0 toe front and back and it wasn't good, way too much oversteer from the rear, and front wanted to walk a lot on me when driving straight over 100-110mph. I'll probably give it a little more rear toe in but waiting on a trackday so I can actually push it and feel the needs.

    FB: @DumbassCarCrew - IG: @fruttolo_dumbasscrew

  5. #105

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    Shakedown


    Earlier this morning I finally got a chance to stretch the M3ís legs. I took it out to one of my favorite roads nearby, and I learned a whole bunch about the car. Some good, some bad, mostly expected though. Here were the big takeaways:

    1. Some alignment changes are needed.
    2. This exhaust is annoying as hell around 4-5K RPM.
    3. I kind of want cloth seats.


    I talked to Fruttolo some this morning, and he suggested I add some camber and go to 0 toe up front. Based on what Iím experiencing, this seems like itíll be a good first step to get it feeling a little less lazy. I also was getting a fair bit of rubbing from the front on tight hairpins. Iím hoping the camber will help some with that as well, because under load on tight turns, if the wheel is turned enough it hits the fender. I can stiffen the front up some, but I donít want to go too far with that to correct this problem. So it definitely needs some adjustment.

    On the exhaust, it really is annoying for most of the drive. Unless you get high into the RPM, it just drones and drones and drones. On the street I havenít noticed so much because Iím usually under the level where it drones. But in the canyons, with it bouncing off the walls, itís hard to ignore. I wish I had ear plugs half way through.

    On the seats, Iíve been looking for Vaderís for a while now, but after todayís drive Iím thinking about just having these redone in cloth. Similar to the LTW M3s. These get really hot, and you obviously slide a lot, but theyíre otherwise comfortable for cruising. I figure the cloth would breath a little better, and hold better just based on the added friction. Anyone do this before? Any suggestions on material?






    Finally, Iím having some radio woes. I sent my radio off to a company called German Audio Tech in Long Beach to have it repaired. They also had a service to add an AUX port, so I went for it. It got back late last week, I plugged it in and nothing. They also failed to return my volume knob, and so far theyíve been pretty rude in their responses. Iím hoping I can get things resolved, but if anyone else is looking at preserving their OEM radio, Iíd suggest not sending it to them. Just on customer service alone.


    So Iíll close it out on that note for now, I have a long list of stuff I want to change now. I have some cool parts in the mail, Iím looking at ordering some other pieces to make further changes to the car, but at least I was able to get out and drive again today.

  6. #106

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    Those look like some nice fun roads to drive on. Also what exhaust are you running?
    Vader seats are pretty damn nice you should definately pick some up if you find some
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  7. #107

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    I am firmly against vaders for driver cars, yeah they are hype af and look proper but not much more restrictive than normal seats, and they weight a metric ton each...nothing beats a bucket when you start to push it hard. A nice fixed back seat with low sides for easy in/out is where I'd go, especially with this being a sedan so rear seats would be still useable

    FB: @DumbassCarCrew - IG: @fruttolo_dumbasscrew

  8. #108
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
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    I'm not a fan of Vaders in sedans. The sport seats are more comfortable than Vaders anyway. Aftermarket is probably the way to go if you want cloth.

    Awesome project and cool to see this getting more and more sorted out.


    @cblock406

  9. #109

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    Quote Originally Posted by Graphitemk6 View Post
    Those look like some nice fun roads to drive on. Also what exhaust are you running?
    Vader seats are pretty damn nice you should definately pick some up if you find some
    The exhaust is a UUC system U with the DTM tips. I picked it up used off of a local part out. Sounds great in short doses, but after a couple hours of beating on the car I was pretty sick of it. I did just discover I may have an exhaust leak though, so I’ll check that out and see if it helps first.

    Quote Originally Posted by Fruttolo View Post
    I am firmly against vaders for driver cars, yeah they are hype af and look proper but not much more restrictive than normal seats, and they weight a metric ton each...nothing beats a bucket when you start to push it hard. A nice fixed back seat with low sides for easy in/out is where I'd go, especially with this being a sedan so rear seats would be still useable
    I thought about going the bucket route, but I’ve yet to find a bucket seat I’m super comfortable in. Given the direction this car is headed, it may be my only option though haha.

    Quote Originally Posted by cblock406 View Post
    I'm not a fan of Vaders in sedans. The sport seats are more comfortable than Vaders anyway. Aftermarket is probably the way to go if you want cloth.

    Awesome project and cool to see this getting more and more sorted out.
    Thanks!

    I think if I went the cloth route I’d just have my seats reupholstered. Short of something like Recaro Pole Positions, I find most other aftermarket seats to look out of place in the E36 interior. Or at least of those I’ve seen, I need to do some more digging. Either way I think just going to cloth on the stock sport seats would give it a very LTW feel while still being comfortable/grippy.

  10. #110

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    Health and Safety

    So a while back, when the car was gushing oil, some got on my exhaust and would smoke pretty badly. It obviously put the fear of fire in me, and I started thinking that itíd be nice to carry a fire extinguisher on board. I forgot about it for a while, and then some friends shared a video of a GT350 burning down at a track day, and it got me thinking, itís cheap insurance to have an extinguisher on board. I rather make a mess and save the car.


    I ordered a floor mounted bracket from VAC Motorosports. Itís advertised for the E36 and E46 chassis. I got it with a 2.5lb auto rated fire extinguisher from them as well, it came with a mount that lines up perfectly with the holes in the bracket.




    I decided to put it on the passenger side, since I donít often have passengers anyways. I did have some concern that it could burn the shit out of someoneís leg in the Arizona summer, but thatís a problem for future me to figure out. In the meantime, I now have some peace of mind. Iím not actually sure realistically how useful this extinguisher will be for anything other than a small electrical fire maybe. Any large fluid fire will easily out pace a 2.5lb I feel like. Also, I guess this is the only splash of color in my otherwise monochromatic car. Everything is silver and black, except this one very, very red thing.

    I was hoping Iíd also have the tune done by this update, but that will wait for another post.

  11. #111

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    Paint the very red thing silver and slap a "bmw motorsport" sticker on it please
    Other than that I'm with you, put my extinguisher on a year ago and it's nice to know I can at least try to do something if anything happens

    FB: @DumbassCarCrew - IG: @fruttolo_dumbasscrew

  12. #112

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    As someone who's had a small fire onboard and used a fire extinguisher... good choice. Shit saved me from burning down my Nova once, and that was reason enough to outfit all of the "toy" cars.
    BB6 Prelude . . E36 ///M3 . . VA WRX Limited
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  13. #113

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fruttolo View Post
    Paint the very red thing silver and slap a "bmw motorsport" sticker on it please
    Other than that I'm with you, put my extinguisher on a year ago and it's nice to know I can at least try to do something if anything happens
    Hmm, I do have some leftover Titanium silver paint from my fog light deletes. I may just do that to make it a little less obvious. Good idea!

    Quote Originally Posted by MommysLittleMonster View Post
    As someone who's had a small fire onboard and used a fire extinguisher... good choice. Shit saved me from burning down my Nova once, and that was reason enough to outfit all of the "toy" cars.
    Thanks! To be honest I don't know why I hadn't thought of it before now on other projects. Shit happens with old cars, best to be prepared.

    Tuned

    So another small update today. Yesterday RKtunes finally sent my file back for the M3. The tune, as best as I can tell, is 100% placebo. Maybe it's because it's so hot here in AZ right now (109 yesterday), but after a lengthy test drive I found myself more impressed with my ceramic tint than I was with the tune. I know you can't expect much from an old NA car with a handful of intake bolt ons, but it seems to be about the same. But that's just fine with me, because I actually primarily ended up tuning the car to code out the SAP.




    Since I bought the car, it would throw these codes constantly. A common fault for E36s, and I wasn't really willing to spend the money to replace the pump anyways. For the same price I could tune it out and (theoretically) get a little more power out of the car.




    So for the first time since I bought the car, I am now CEL free. I suppose it's nice to know the car is also appropriately tuned for the manifold now, but as far as I can tell, in our heat soaked desert, it feels the same as before.

    Now I get to go back to focusing on matters like "Why does my car handle like shit" and "What is that clunking noise?"

  14. #114

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    Quote Originally Posted by bwwaaaa View Post
    I thought about going the bucket route, but I’ve yet to find a bucket seat I’m super comfortable in. Given the direction this car is headed, it may be my only option though haha.

    Like what I said to Fruttolo, I tried the Recaro Profi XL and they're pretty comfy for a fat person like myself (I don't wanna say you're fat, but if they're comfy for me they're for everyone).
    They're pretty comfy for a bucket seat, but the real MVP is the inflatable lumbar support. I was skeptical at first but damn if it change your life!

  15. #115

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    Quote Originally Posted by DawsonLiri View Post
    Like what I said to Fruttolo, I tried the Recaro Profi XL and they're pretty comfy for a fat person like myself (I don't wanna say you're fat, but if they're comfy for me they're for everyone).
    They're pretty comfy for a bucket seat, but the real MVP is the inflatable lumbar support. I was skeptical at first but damn if it change your life!
    Thanks! I'll keep it under consideration. I've been very big on the whole OEM+ thing, but after a certain point I think I'm willing to sacrifice some looks to drop weight in the car and not slide around on the leather haha. Though I have a few more important things to take care of until I get to that point.

    Radio Woes

    You may remember I mentioned earlier that I was having some headaches with my radio repair. I sent the stock unit (which was having problems) out for repair. The business I sent it to basically made it worse, refused to take responsibility, and now we're dealing with a credit card charge back and all sorts of fun stuff. It's annoying. I didn't want to buy another radio or try to fix this one again until that was resolved, but I was also sick of looking at the hole in the dashboard.






    So I decided to order the OEM radio delete plate. It is not a permanent solution, I would like to have a radio in the car again at some point. But at least it cleans up the dash, and lets me pretend I have an LTW for a little bit.

  16. #116

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    Weird Flexes

    So Iíve mostly left the M3 sitting. I drive it around every once in a while to keep things going, but I havenít otherwise been doing much. Two small updates however.




    First I picked up a Bonrath mono wiper conversion. A friend of mine found it on eBay Germany, sent it to me. After thinking about it for about 30 seconds I bought it. It needs some refurbishment, and Iím actually not 100% sure if it will actually work. But it would be cool to have a single wiper just like the actual STW cars. So more on that when I get around to actually fussing with it.


    Second, I have a working radio! I picked up a CD43 from someone local. It came out of their Z3 Coupe, and works perfectly. For those thinking of sending their OEM headunits in for repair with German Audio Works, just donít. Iím stoked to have an OEM headunit that works now, it may be a weird thing to insist on having but I **** the look of aftermarket radios. So this was an incredible win for me. It works perfectly, sounds great, what more could I ask for?

    The car is actually going to a shop today for a few driveshaft repairs. New guibo, CSB, trans mounts, etc. Nothing I couldnít do at home, but without a lift itís a real pain. So theyíll be buttoning that all up for me and hopefully the car is finally mechanically sorted.

    Also per everyoneís suggestion, I am now on the hunt for some comfortable but supportive bucket seats. Looking at the Recaro Profis currently, itís just hard to commit to ordering them without testing first. Hoping to hit up my first track day at the end of October when things cool off a bit here in Arizona.

  17. #117

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    Clunking

    So Iím having some serious troubles, and Iím hoping someone can give me insight on the cause. I have been chasing a drive train vibration/clunk/knocking sound for a few months now.

    From a dig/barely moving start in 1st or 2nd gear, if I launch the car (WOT) a very loud vibration/banging will come from the transmission tunnel. If youíve followed my thread, I have now replaced the motor mounts, rear subframe mounts, RTABs, reinforced the RTAB pockets, done suspension, wheels and tires, ruling out a lot of issues like wheel hop and other items shifting. However the problem has persisted through these replacements.

    I just had the transmission mounts, guibo, center support bearing and differential bushings all replaced this week in hopes that would finally do it.








    Here is the problem, despite now everything short of the physical two pieces of the drive shaft being new, Iím still having issues. Video attached, the noise is at the very end, it sounds like an impact gun in the center console.

    https://youtu.be/FYLPfs5Y4XY
    (Only way I could share the video was through YouTube I guess)

    What I thought was the driveshaft center support bearing failing, must be something else, but Iím a little at a loss. The car drives otherwise perfectly, there are no vibrations, clunks or rattles under normal driving conditions, or even spirited driving at higher gears or not from a launching situation. This only happens from a launch which is why I initially believe it had to do with the rear subframe or rear trailing arms causing interference or movement. If you watch the above video, the rattling of the plastics in the car amplifies it, but the source sounds like it is coming from directly under the arm rest (roughly where the CSB is give or take. But it seems as though the sound is likely traveling up or down the driveline from itís source.

    At this stage my thoughts are: the u-joints in the driveshaft may be bad, the differential internals may have some sort of problem, the clutch/flywheel may be having some sort of problems, or the trans itself has some sort of internal problem.

    Iím going to dig deeper into this obviously, but I **** to just throw random parts against the wall to see what sticks, especially with such large jobs like clutch/flywheel. I donít feel/hear anything off about the clutch currently that would have been alarming, and likewise the differential doesnít howl/shriek/grind or act strangely.

    Any suggestions?

  18. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by bwwaaaa View Post

    Seems the park brake cables are very close to the driveshaft. I'm not familiar with the rear axle/suspension geometry.., but if the
    suspension compresses it looks like the park brake cables could be pushed forwart and contact the driveshaft...

    Continental makes old school looking radios if you ever want to get a modern one...

  19. #119
    Join Date
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    How long have you been having this issue? If the driveshaft itself is hitting something, there will be marks on it, I'm sure you have visually inspected it.
    That sound does not point to a clutch assembly or gearbox internal problem, it is way to pronounced to be internal, at least that's what I draw from the video.
    Looking at the pictures - when you had the flex disk changed, new hardware was used which does not appear to be OEM. Here are my thoughts - if the bolts are not the exact same length as OEM ones, upon hard acceleration when the engine/trans combo flexes to one side, the rear subframe remains somewhat in its place due to the poly bushings, the flex disk does what it's supposed to do and flexes. that's when a bolt that is a bit too long will come in contact with the casting ribs of the transmission behind the output shaft flange. The noise in the video resembles this very strongly.
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  20. #120

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    Quote Originally Posted by OrangeBlue View Post
    Seems the park brake cables are very close to the driveshaft. I'm not familiar with the rear axle/suspension geometry.., but if the
    suspension compresses it looks like the park brake cables could be pushed forwart and contact the driveshaft...

    Continental makes old school looking radios if you ever want to get a modern one...
    On the cables, they are close but there were no signs of contact on them. Thereís not too much room to move them elsewhere, but nothing near them should really interfere, short of something being severely wrong. After another round of test driving yesterday it seems as though it is coming from the center of the transmission tunnel.

    On the radio, I had looked at the Continental one, but ultimately decided against it because itís slightly off from the OEM look. So far Iíve been delighted with the CD43 I got. It works great and looks perfect, so Iíll call that a win!

    Quote Originally Posted by gnmzl View Post
    How long have you been having this issue? If the driveshaft itself is hitting something, there will be marks on it, I'm sure you have visually inspected it.
    That sound does not point to a clutch assembly or gearbox internal problem, it is way to pronounced to be internal, at least that's what I draw from the video.
    Looking at the pictures - when you had the flex disk changed, new hardware was used which does not appear to be OEM. Here are my thoughts - if the bolts are not the exact same length as OEM ones, upon hard acceleration when the engine/trans combo flexes to one side, the rear subframe remains somewhat in its place due to the poly bushings, the flex disk does what it's supposed to do and flexes. that's when a bolt that is a bit too long will come in contact with the casting ribs of the transmission behind the output shaft flange. The noise in the video resembles this very strongly.
    This has been an issue well before the car had poly bushings anywhere. Truth be told I started doing bushings partly to try and remedy this problem. Initially I thought I had some sort of wheel hop problem, given the symptoms. It hasnít gotten any better/worse through all the bushings changes or guibo change.

    Right now my two leading theories are:

    1. Driveshaft. I have replaced all the mounting pieces, but the physical driveshaft halves themselves are original. It seems as though it could be u joint failure at this stage.

    2. Clutch/Flywheel. It doesnít sound internal to the transmission, but itís the only other thing in the driveline that remains untouched. I have a rear main seal leak anyways, so it may be worth changing just for the peace of mind.

  21. #121

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    just read the whole thing, love your attention to detail. keep up the great work.

    as for you noise, i had something exactly the same a couple of years ago on my 320d e46 i bought. tried everything like you. changed the drive shaft itself and all my problems were gone. i hear the drive shafts are balanced from factory and once taken apart they have to be put back together in the same orientation or they will be unbalanced. so i can only assume, someone had mine apart to change the carier bearing at some point and didnt pay attention to this detail. i went throught 3 guibos in like 8 months. it would also only do it under hard accelaration. changed mine with one from a scrapyard and its been fine since.

  22. #122
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    Well, if it has been an issue for a while now, it really is worth checking the driveshaft's balance. As C2_mad said, driveshafts should be assembled exactly the way they were, otherwise the balance is lost. They usually marked from factory with white dots, I see someone marked yours as well. Trouble is, you never know who did the job before that and if they assembled it correctly.
    Hope you get this sorted soon.
    "You could roll an E30 in a BMW showroom today and people would think:
    Well, they finally got the 1 series right!"

    3.0 L e30 ground up build

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