Vskf rebuild

[Oh Damn, it's Sam]

EDIT: Either the board software freaked out or somebody deleted his post.

[Oh Damn, it's Sam]

Do you know how much the axle travels side to side during suspension movement?

You might have to get an adjustable panhard bar or even go watts link to center the axle if it ends up pushed over to one side... Just speculating here...

Oooh, that's a good point, I forgot those are 3-link. Down low that Panhard should be pretty flat, but it's probably worth doing a little trig to figure out how much lateral movement there's going to be, both from lowering it, and also just under normal suspension cycling once lowered.

[Shaun708]

great choice in wheels, i have no other input and nothing helpful to say, carry on

[DER E30]

Though the advantage is that it makes measurement a whole lot easier, since you don't have to contend with camber changing with ride height. 'Course, in the end, you're still stuck with a Fred Flintstone solid axle

True dat!

Do you know how much the axle travels side to side during suspension movement?

You might have to get an adjustable panhard bar or even go watts link to center the axle if it ends up pushed over to one side... Just speculating here...

[Oh Damn, it's Sam]

Something about the mustang is that with a solid axle I'd think you'd have to be dead on with your math as you can't just add more camber to fix small errors in offsets...

Though the advantage is that it makes measurement a whole lot easier, since you don't have to contend with camber changing with ride height. 'Course, in the end, you're still stuck with a Fred Flintstone solid axle

I'd say test fit and go from there.

Also, this ^ .

[DER E30]

http://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Tire-Size-Calculator
This can help with picking tire sizes, getting diameter correct-ish and such.

The outer and inner poke are different but BOTH important! Too much inner poke and the wheels hit the struts or other things inside the wheelwell. Obviously outer poke is the looks part.

If you found pics of that mustang somewhere, ask the owner about the wheels? Probably faster than math.

Why not bolt the wheels you have to teh car and see??? Test fitting is pretty easy and not all cars are exactly the same and personal preferences are key here also. What you think looks awesome in your head might be less awesome in person.

Something about the mustang is that with a solid axle I'd think you'd have to be dead on with your math as you can't just add more camber to fix small errors in offsets...
I'd say test fit and go from there.

[Oh Damn, it's Sam]

Concur with the above, shaving backpads brings the wheel inboard with a higher offset. Don't shave the backpad unless you absolutely have to - there are better ways to change the offset that don't permanently alter the face of the wheel.

IIRC, 18" GT wheels are 8" in width.

Also, keep in mind that VS-KFs sometimes have lips and barrels that are sized on the 1/4" and 3/4", rather than half or whole inches. See also this whole bidniss over hurr.

[VR6DUBNY]

Also what is the stock width of your wheels

Found the size of the black mustang....20x10.5 et30 with 255/35/20's

Based on that you have 40mm of more lip and 24mm of inner clearance

So you could run a 1" larger barrel and a 1.5" larger lip. Or any combination of the 2.

1.5 larger lip = 20x9.5 et19
1.5 larger lip + 1" larger barrel = 20x10.5 et31ish

Outer lip will be 2mm more pushed in than his set up

[VR6DUBNY]

By positively i meant the offset number goes up...shave a et20 wheel 5mm and it ends up et25.

Do you know his wheel and tire specs?...he is def running a little bit of stretch and poke

Height of the new combo depends on rolling diameter of tire choice.

[c_Sharman5.0]

Here's the mustang im referring to

[c_Sharman5.0]

These are going on a 2014 mustang gt. The stock 18" on my car are +44, im gonna have Megan racing coilovers with aprox. a 2-3" drop from original height with the 245/50r/18. The new wheels will have a smaller side wall of around 35, I assumed putting the 20" with a lower profile tire, that it would stay around the stock height. Then lowering it around 2", altimatly leaving me with closer to stock offset, rather then a super low/negative offset .The Mustangs don't handle being low to well..

Safely thinking that 20-30 would be enough poke, if not too much already. Shavings the pad is out of the picture, since it effects it positively.. So a slight pull is probably what I'm gonna have to do..

I'm not really understanding the difference between the outer and inner poke being different.. But I have checked http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp . I guess it doesn't really help that I'm trying to stay around the same specs as another mustang.. I haven't been able to actually go in and figure out what I can or can't fit.

[VR6DUBNY]

affects it positively...wouldn't be my first choice though. What car are you trying to run these on? Massage the fenders to run a little lower offset?

why not just go 20x10 et13 square with 4" lips. or 20x10et13, 20x11 et25 with 4" lips and a larger barrel in the rear.

your main concern is outward poke. Even though the 20x11 has an offset that is higher it still pokes the same as the 10.

go online and find a offset calculator and start changing stuff...it will give you a better idea when you can look at the stock or current offset on your car or what you know will fit and then punch in what you want to try and fit.

[c_Sharman5.0]

If I shave the pads down, does this effect the offset positively or negatively ? If any one can help on shed some light on that subject? I know that im not running the face for maximum brake clearance, I also won't have the need of big brakes for awhile atleast, so if it reduces brake clearance to obtain bigger outer lips.

[zoo]

Changing the diameter will not affect the offset.
Have not looked over your numbers yet.

[c_Sharman5.0]

Ok so the only thing I'm not sure about is if stepping it to 20" is going to effect the offset*

+1" lip = -12.7mm
-1" lip = +12.7mm
+1" barrel = +12.7mm
-1" barrel = -12.7mm

Original specs :
6"(B) + 2"(L) = 8"(W) +38mm(O) [19x8 +38]

After rebuild specs:
7"(B) + 4"(L) = 11"(W) +26mm(O) [19x11 +25]

Math:
6"(B) + 1"(B) = 7"(B) = +12.7mm | 50.7mm(O)
2"(L) + 2"(L) = 4"(L) = -12.7mmx2 | 25.4mm(O)
50.7mm(O) - 25.4mm(O) = 25.3mm(O)

Does this seem correct?