YOU! need great plates, to move the axle back then you shouldn't be rubbing.
http://mason-tech.com/greatplatesCW1.asp
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Help me LOWER! Machining offset up?
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putting on camber plates could help but you cant get thatmuch negative camber out of them.
what suspension are you on? might need stiffer suspension ie dampening/spring rate or if it only rubs over bumps, live with it.
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You could def. roll out the fender lip to match the angle the fender arch has(or close to it). I've seen many people do this and I think it actually looks good.
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Mk4's often have a problem with their rear beam being a little off center so they poke unevenly sometimes.Originally posted by schroedin View PostHow do you have different offsets?
In terms of this, you'll lose a little contact patch if you go camber, but that'll probably be a good thing as far as handling is concerned. It's not like having a rear stagger on a FWD is helping your handling in any way. Cutting down on the rear contact patch of the 235's might balance the turn in a bit. Based on the pics you'd probably only need a degree or two of camber to eliminate the rubbing.The fronts are 205/45s on 17x8.5s and rears are 235/40s on 17x10s. I drive the car pretty spiritedly so I don't want to lose anymore grip patch on the front or back.
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Ah right, sorry dude. Thought you were talking about rolling the inside lip. My badOriginally posted by SeanDub View PostIf the problem is mm's, you can roll them out, I almost guarantee it.
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Thanks for the responses guys
You mean as in lightly pulling it with a roller? There's literally nothing to roll on back of mk4 GTIs, its just a flat body line down the quarter panel edge.Originally posted by SeanDub View PostIf the problem is mm's, you can roll them out, I almost guarantee it.
The problem with stretching more is the tire sizes. To downsize from a 235/40/17 I'd need a 225/40/17 which is a super rare tire size from what I've found and they don't make the tires I want in that size.. I didn't think about adding camber though, I need to look into camber shims.Originally posted by grundle View Posti would stay away from getting the wheel machined...i no you said you dont want more stretch but bumping down a tire size would fix the problem and you'll be able to go lower, i would also look into adding some negative camber in the rear that would also eliminate the problem as well. hope this helps
Thats a good idea, I hadn't thought of that.Originally posted by Tuck&Poke View Postor you can machine them all down and correct with a spacer on one side
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camber is not adjustable on mk4's, you need shims to get camber. I wouldnt machine down the hub of the wheel on only one side because its gonna fuck your resale. I wouldnt but a set of wheels with different offsets from left to right.
You could center the trailing arm with shims, or you can machine them all down and correct with a spacer on one side
also check how much extra material you have behind the seats because if there isnt enough they're going to have to re-seat them which is going to raise the cost
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i would stay away from getting the wheel machined...i no you said you dont want more stretch but bumping down a tire size would fix the problem and you'll be able to go lower, i would also look into adding some negative camber in the rear that would also eliminate the problem as well. hope this helps
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If the problem is mm's, you can roll them out, I almost guarantee it.
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The rears on Mk4's are rolled from the factory
I have the perches/adjuster cups out on the back of my 4, 17x10 ET10, looking into machining myself as my arches are getting some abuse.
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