The Fabrication/Welding Thread

[mikey G]

I wanted to ask you guys a questions. What machine would you recommend for me to start getting more practice on. Im by not means experienced but I really want to get better. With that being said I was looking at a millermatic 180 auto-set. Would us spending the extra 600 dollars for a miller diversion 180 be worth it? Again im buying this for my "at home shop". Really just something we can practice with and work our way into fabrication our own stuff.

[TeckniX]

Just to see how would you guys rate the welds, good, bad, horrible, unacceptable?. if so what seems to be wrong, how to proceed? i have problem getting the seams to go straight and to "lay dimes" as us term goes.. (maybe my speed is off or too much amp cause seams are dark? wrong gas? im using 100% argon on tig welding.)

No expert but it looks like you're not getting a good shielding. What is your flow set to and how long do you post flow?

[Byron]

Well i am a certificated welder and it passed the test with no problems

If you're a certified welder, why the hell are you tacking pipes together?

[fpsthomas]

couldn't get the fancy stainles steel rainbows, but love myself some lobster'd 3,5" bends!

btw i did not use backing gas, is that the reason why i got too much heat in the metal and didnt get the fancy rainbows?

[xcgnj]

Should be getting a welder here soon, have not done any since high school, ill be a bit rusty, but it will be fun to do again. More pics should be on these pages!

[Exami]

Just wanted to say that I absolutely love the progress this thread has made and the people it has helped!

iamsilverfox - What sort of gas mix/pressure are you using? I think the problem may lie there...

Exami - Something looks wrong about your welds. Is that why you posted? I'm no professional TIGer so maybe Heist could offer more guidance.

Just to see how would you guys rate the welds, good, bad, horrible, unacceptable?. if so what seems to be wrong, how to proceed? i have problem getting the seams to go straight and to "lay dimes" as us term goes.. (maybe my speed is off or too much amp cause seams are dark? wrong gas? im using 100% argon on tig welding.)

[M.Doban]

Just wanted to say that I absolutely love the progress this thread has made and the people it has helped!

iamsilverfox - What sort of gas mix/pressure are you using? I think the problem may lie there...

Exami - Something looks wrong about your welds. Is that why you posted? I'm no professional TIGer so maybe Heist could offer more guidance.

[Exami]

Some of the parts ive made..

[FHF]

Well i am a certificated welder and it passed the test with no problems

You may be a certified welder. But that style of mig weld is not acceptable for roll cages. It may be strong, but it certainly will not pass any sort of tech.

[iamsilverfox]

great thread. im welding for the first time smoothing the bay of my e30 using an old mig setup. few questions

welds are getting better, but still very inconsistent. im welding thin (1mm) mild steel sheet to the inner legs and it seems a voltage setting of 1 isnt enough and it spats, but a voltage of 2 blows through the sheet very easily making it very difficult. any advice?

also any ideas on how to clean the welds, grind them smooth in tight areas like inner arches where the two panels are at a 90 degree angle? like this



ive tried rubbing it with the lip of a cutting disc on a 4" grinder but with little success.

areas like this



will be difficult because its all boxed in. i need it smooth enough to run some seam sealer over it and hide the weld.

thanks

[Mikethepanel]

Before you go trusting those welds on something as critical as a cage, you might have a look at this discussion on the tack-tack-tack method: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gener...tack-tack.html

It's a lengthy discussion, but the guys on Pirate know their shit about fabrication.

Well i am a certificated welder and it passed the test with no problems

[Oh Damn, it's Sam]

Before you go trusting those welds on something as critical as a cage, you might have a look at this discussion on the tack-tack-tack method: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gener...tack-tack.html

It's a lengthy discussion, but the guys on Pirate know their shit about fabrication.

[Mikethepanel]

I might aswell throw my penny in

This is the weld strength test for my weld in roll cage in my mk2 escort

[dc4dave]

Just want to say Thanks! This is the best thread i've read in a while!

[hi its me alec]

You could cut just the hood skin and leave the reinforcing underneath, just have to make a really shallow cut so you only cut the skin.

Right, yeah it was really intense cutting the M3 hood and separating from the skeleton underneath.

Do you think it would be stronger and less prone to cracking if I cut the metal out underneath? This is my biggest concern, especially since it's purely cosmetic and I can leave the metal underneath if I want. I was thinking have my body shop bond as much of the M3 skin to the existing metal as possible using this new 3M space-age stuff, and spend a few hours grinding and blending the edges in to make it seamless. That way it will be less prone to flexing and should hold up fine. I got a pretty big cut, from the tip of the roundel to the back, and out to both body lines.