Few questions about my air ride management.

[Joshy]

I picked up part of an unfinished air ride system yesterday. It currently has 4 valves. I'm waiting to be able to control each corner so i'm buying another 4 valves.

I'm a little confused about the valves though. They have 2 wires coming from the, but they are actually the same. I know 1 wire is grounded, and the other is wired to the switch controlling it. These are what im using:

How do i know which wire is for what? This is where im getting confused. As soon as i know what to do then i can order the last 4 valves and start building my kit up.

Thanks.

[Daviticus]

They aren't polarity-sensitive, which means you can put either wire to ground or power and they will still function.

[Joshy]

They aren't polarity-sensitive, which means you can put either wire to ground or power and they will still function.

You sir are a legend. Thank you for this info

[Joshy]

Since finding out that these valves aren't polarity sensitive i've drawn a wiring diagram for them.



Blue = Ground wire
Red = 12v power

I'm currently still working on the switch wiring diagram as i'm unsure on what set up to go.
Either:
-5 switches, four 3 prong switches for each corner and then a 9 prong switch for all up/down.
-6 switches, four 3 prong switches for each corner, two 5 prong switches which control either the front or back
-7 switches, AVS switch box.

[Daviticus]

Keep in mind you'll need a relay or one-way diode for each fill and dump solenoid if you wire them all to one switch for an all-up or all-down function, else you'll essentially be wiring all the solenoids together.

The simplest way would be to wire in 4 DPDT [dual post dual throw, or a "3-prong switch" as you refer to it], one for each corner. Supply power to the center prong, then run the top prong to the fill solenoid, and the bottom to the vent solenoid, and ground the solenoids to the chassis or another acceptable ground.

The best way to get an all-up or all-down function would be with an electronic management, or an AVC switch box as you mentioned.

-edit- Derp, I just re-read your post, and noticed you were talking about 5-prong switches, that would relieve a lot of issues with cross-powering. Carry on lol.

[Joshy]

Yeah, ive opted for 5 prong switches This is how im going to wire up my switches (hopefully)


I'm not sure if i am actually going to put the switch lives into the cigarette lighter, so someone told me to run a relay. This will supposedly cut the power to the switches. Thats good as it won't drain the battery, but my compressor is connected to the car battery via a relay so wont they drain the battery? it doesnt have anything that seems to "kill it" so to speak

[Daviticus]

By crimping two solenoids together before the switch, you're defeating the purpose of the 5-prong switches and tying them together, which you don't want [not to mention, you're not even using the 5-prong switches as they should be wired]. If you trace your wiring, you'll notice you're cross-powering fills and vents.

Once I get home I'll draw up a schematic that shows a better way to wire it up.

[Joshy]

Oh right! So i wire up one of the fill valves to one prong, then the other front fill valve to the second prong. 3rd for live and then 4/5 for front dumps?

If we are on about the same thing, the bits where the wires for the middle switches touch the original wires are connect with a T-Tap connector. I was told it would work. I'm open to all feedback though as i'm still a noob

Thanks, i'd appreciate that.

[Daviticus]

Oh right! So i wire up one of the fill valves to one prong, then the other front fill valve to the second prong. 3rd for live and then 4/5 for front dumps?

Yep, that's exactly it. You'd really only need the 5-prong switches for the two pair-switches [front fill/vent, and rear fill/vent], and can run 3-prong switches for each individual corner.

If we are on about the same thing, the bits where the wires for the middle switches touch the original wires are connect with a T-Tap connector. I was told it would work. I'm open to all feedback though as i'm still a noob

Thanks, i'd appreciate that.

Exactly, you've got it. Everything else looks on-point, I can see you're getting the gist of it.

[Joshy]

I was planning on using the 3 prong switches, but i couldn't find any of the same switch in 3 prong and 5 so settled on 5. I understand about the switch wiring now. It makes more sense to wire it how i've just said. Thanks!

So a T-Tap connector would work? need to get myself familiar with all the types of connections!

Got a question. What wire do i use!? obviously i'll need to buy some wire for the switches and i will probably need some for making some wires longer.

[Daviticus]

Oh sorry, I misread your T-tap comments - it will not work, it would be the same as connecting each side together and defeating the corner-specific switches.

Concerning wire, you shouldn't need anything drastic as the solenoids themselves are pretty low-draw, so I would safely assume [bad word I know] 16 or 14 gauge would be enough. I'd also fuse the incoming power with a 15 or 20 amp fuse for good measure.

[Joshy]

I see. How would i wire it up so that i have the out 4 switches controlling a corner each and then the 2 middle switches controlling the front up/down and the rear up/down?

I'll bare that in mind! Do you mean put the before the power is split up for the 6 switches?

[Daviticus]

Sorry for the delayed response. I modified your schematic in Photoshop real quick, a couple minor details aren't accurate but it gets the point across just fine.



Instead of +12v constant power, you'll obviously want keyed power.

[punjabi_dubber]

I may be missing something here but have you considered buying an AVS switch box? It would take care of all of this for you.

[bobbyjones]

I may be missing something here but have you considered buying an AVS switch box? It would take care of all of this for you.

Your not missing anything. It's mind blowing, why would someone go threw all that bullshit where there are so many easier options out their.

And personally I would use ground on the switch side and fuse power on the motor side of valve.