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  • Bags on a budget?

    Sup guys, I'm here to learn the basics on bagging. Not gonna lie, total newb and wanna get the most out of my truck. It's my DD but I'd like to be able to lay it on the ground at any time and still be able to drive it around. It's pretty important that i can still use it sometimes as a truck for a few hundred pounds.

    I have a:
    '76 Datsun 620
    Front torsion with short pinto shocks

    Rear 720 4x4 leafs (de-arched stocks basically) with air shocks to provide some support when carrying loads, and the ability to drop the truck down when driving around town.


    I have pretty basic 'fab' experience, and have a welder but it's pretty weak and I wouldn't trust it for anything structural.

    I'm honestly looking to avoid fab work as much as possible, because if I ever decide to raise my shock towers and run coilovers, I'd like the ability to.


    Current 'stance' for reference.









    I have some clearance issues right now with my exhaust and tension rods. The torsion bars are in the way and keep me from running my exhaust over the front crossmember so right now, I can't go lower without being parking lot restricted. (Already get veryyyy close to sticking like glue to speed bumps)



    I also need to find a way to space my tension rod down to clear up room for the sway bar mounts.






    Now that I've gotten you up to speed, I guess my biggest questions would be where to look for 'decent' quality, while budget friendly bag stuff, and what all do I need???

    School me on bags please.

    <3 Thanks S/W

  • #2
    Bend your tie rod. You'll need a realignment cause it'll pull them in, But S10's do it. Some C10's have custom bent tie rod's to clear shit.
    1999 Lexus GS300 | Bagged | Wed Kranze Borphes | STUPID

    2001 325i |Coupe | Carbonfiber | Comfy

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    • #3
      Sorry I can't be of any help, but holy fucking cat dildos I love your truck <3

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      • #4
        First off, you should look into triangulating your front control arms to get rid of the torsion bar.
        http://community.ratsun.net/topic/37...-control-arms/
        This is just a pic from another forum, just to give you the idea.

        And you are really going to be hard pressed to find bags for cheap without just buying used. I tried that on my mazda, and ended up spending $2400 to piece together a kit instead of buying a complete kit for $2000.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by scotto View Post
          First off, you should look into triangulating your front control arms to get rid of the torsion bar.
          http://community.ratsun.net/topic/37...-control-arms/
          This is just a pic from another forum, just to give you the idea.
          [IMG]htp://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee50/my2nds102bag/0315011426.jpg[/IMG]
          And you are really going to be hard pressed to find bags for cheap without just buying used. I tried that on my mazda, and ended up spending $2400 to piece together a kit instead of buying a complete kit for $2000.
          I think you mean to get rid of the caster bar/arm?

          If he got rid of the torsion bar without putting some form of "spring" (air or coil) in place of it, it would just be sitting on the shock.

          The only issues with deleting the caster arm is 1. you cant adjust the caster and B. the bushings in the lower control arm will prematurely wear. It also wouldnt feel as tight in the front end with handling corners etc.

          OP. There is no cheap way around air suspension unless you use used parts, which you shouldnt since you dont know what its been through.
          Originally posted by anth
          Lucky they didn't come into your house and disrespect your whole family.

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          • #6
            Sorry guys, I derped off the forum for a week.

            The 'caster rod' isn't actually technically a 'caster' rod, just a tension rod to the LCA. It doesn't allow for caster adjustments. That's all done with shims elsewhere.

            I've looked into the triangulation of the LCA's via that link before (I'm super active on Ratsun) but that's just a thought right now... The only reason my tension rod is in the way of the sway bar is because my poly mount bushings are a little taller then stock. No biggie, if I bag it, I'll just pull the sway bar off.

            By 'cheap', I'm more looking around $1.5K to $3K in long term investments. Nothing concrete in the budget yet, I'm not going to do anything that could make it dangerous to drive on since it's my DD. Just looking for less expensive alternatives to the crazy expensive name brand stuff.

            For now, i think I'm going to stay static and keep learning, because I want to do it all myself and save some money. I have a race prepped stroker LZ23 in my gun sights right now before suspension, then disks and suspension will follow.

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